Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

You'll want to go to 1.5mm of shims under the blocks, instead of 2mm. Currently I have 1.0mm under the front toe/pivot blocks, and 1.5mm under the rear toe/pivots blocks. That tends to make the car have more steering with the front having a lower roll center than the rear, especially in the middle of the corner. But, I would just start with 1.5mm of shims all the way around. It's where everyone on the team starts out.


As far as camber links, I run 2mm shims under the inner pivots both front and rear. My local track is EXTREMELY high grip like I have said before. For most people, 2mm front, and 1mm rear is good.

Fewer shims under the inner pivot of the camber link, angles the camber link more. This will create more mechanical grip in the middle and exit of the corner. The opposite is true when you make that camber link less angled (more shims); it free's up that end of the car in the middle and exit of the corner. We tend to angle the camber link more in the rear than the front to to make the car a little more stable, so that might help you out too.

Tire prep depends on the compound being used. Typically I always "bake" the traction compound in. So I apply it, then put the tire warmers on. I don't wipe the tires before I put the warmers on. The pours of the tires open up as they get heated, and that allows the traction compound to soak in, and do it's job better. I usually set my Tire Warmers to 60 deg C, and warm for 10-15 min. After that, just wipe them off really good with a dry towel, and hit the track!

Hope that clears some questions up. Feel free to ask questions guys. I might not be on here all the time like I was (in school again) but I'll try my best to help everyone out.

-Korey

cyclone speed

OK , so i will first try with the schocks laying them , if it doesnt help i would put 1mm under front pivot block and 1.5 under rear pivot block.
Then il put 2mm under front camber link and 1.5 under rear camber link .Il try all this .
But i if i lay the rear shock wouldnt my car have less on throtle steering because the rear will compresse under acceleration and have less steering ?

bmmer701

iTrader: (17)

hi cyclone speed based on my experience yeah i had less steering when it was laid down. from #2 to #5 in the shock position in the rear i had steering. Though my car is still understeer hehehe and someone told me when i was still starting to setup the less shims under the camber link = more grip (if your track is low grip) you might want to try that out.

hi korey maybe you can help me with my setup i need more on power steering hehe... just a question in your case, if you lay your shocks in front? what does your car feel? thanks


josh

cyclone speed

hi bmmer701 , i hope i can help you out but how much droop do you have , over ride height, in the begining i had 4mm front and 5mm rear and i went lower .now im at 2mm front and 3mm rear wich has alot of on power steering ( i can go full speed in the sweeper at my local track, and its a short sweeper so i have alot of on power steering)any question , you can ask mee also with what i run because i do have alot , alot of on power steering.
Thanks guys , thanks Korey and bmmer701 for your help i will try everything , and if i need any help il ask you . thanks againg guys

bmmer701

iTrader: (17)

i'm not sure but i think my droop over ride height in front is 2mm and in the rear is 4mm.

here's my setup
front
#1 shock position 35 shock oil 3 holes hara black
2.75 shims in front front of pivot block (2.5 pivot block)
1.0mm under FF blocks
1.5mm under FR blocks
2.0mm under the camber link #2 position (the inner one)
2mm ackerman
camber 3.5
ride height 5mm
droop 7
no stabs

rear
#5 shock position 30 shock oil hara black
2.75 shims in rear rear of pivot block (1.5 pivot block)
1.5mm under RF and RR pivot blocks
1.0mm under the camber link #2 position (inner one)
.75mm in shims in front of the rear hub
2mm in rear of the hub
camber 2
ride height 5mm
droop 5mm
no stabs

using sorex 36 tires and soft inserts.

i'm having understeer onpower and a little bit understeer off power

hehe i'm thinking of standing the shocks in front, or stand the shocks in the rear 1 hole, or just put the 1 deg rear toe hehehe...

btw, i'm running mod 3.5 orion motor and orion 4800 lipo.

cyclone speed

Thats my set up

front:
number 2 shock position and 40w oil , 3hole piston.
1mm under FF block
1mm under FR block (what korey recomended me and its much better then before)
2mm under camber link , 1st position
camber , 1.5
ride height 5mm
droop over ride height 2mm
ackerman 4mm

rear:
number 3 shock position and 40w oils 3 hole piston
1.5mm under RF block
1.5mm under RR block
1mm under camber link , 1st position(what Korey told me wich is also better then before, my rear end isnt tail fishy as before)
camber 1.5
ride height 5.5mm
droop over ride height 3mm

I run 5.5 BL , 5 cell .
Hope that helps.

cyclone speed

Also , forgot to say that i ran my car with 1mm under FF and FR blocks instead of 1.5mm and the car did have a bit more steering in corners.
I also tried 1mm under rear camber link wich did help alot , before i had 2mm and the rear end was very like a fish tail , and when i put 1mm it did help alot .
But my probleme know is that in corner exit under acceleration , my car has the rear end a litle loose .Less then before ( now im running 1mm under camber link instead of 2mm) but is it possible to reduce this probleme.It does abit of powerslides in corner exit.
I have tried what you told me Korey but is there a way to eliminate this probleme.

John Doucakis

iTrader: (1)

Superb racing from the very best...

Right click on the below link and "save as" to your file
31.6 MB file from SUDA TYPE R (http://sudacolumn.cocolog-nifty.com/typer/)

http://suda.mine.nu/2008EPT/SEX_A1.wmv

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Yes nice battle !
Hara Cyclone had Hi Torque pick up , unknow used which Magnet rotor ?
but have some noise .

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

You can always loosen your front droop screws a touch. That will transfer more weight to the rear of the car on power.

How much rear toe are you running???

-Korey

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

I could use a little help please. I plan to run the Cyclone tweak / setup plate tomarrow and wanted to double check mounting holes near the steering servo. The chassis I have doesn't have one mounted, and I need to check that my locations have clearance to servo.

I could really use a top view pic of the servo mounted on the chassis to be sure before I run these plates. Here is a wireframe view..it is lower left corner I need confirmation of.

TIA.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Vern...I got ya covered on the pic as soon as I go pick my daughter up from the weekly football game. She has my camera. It should be done in another hour.

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

Cool...I'll keep the thread open. I've gone thru several pics, and looks like the 3 options I gave for clamps (red circles are 4mm threaded holes) will cover it. I've seen a couple different locations on servos, and was warned people mount servos drilling their own holes. Also I see some people are running large older servos like this.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I took out my futaba 9550 and put in the larger Airtronics 94360

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

Thank you for the pic. That could possibly interfere with the dowel pin chassis stop I'm using. I would have to press the dowel to no taller then the thin 2mm chassis, or risk a unhappy customer that is running an older servo. Hmmmm ...there are people really using those even though they hang off the chassis that far? I better move the holes.