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Old 04-06-2008, 02:41 AM
  #11701  
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Default New top deck?

Apologies if this has been posted elsewhere. Just saw this pic from the recent LRP Masters in Germany. Looks like Andy Moores top deck has been cut for extra flex? He is also using the new bulkheads and main chassis with battery bits.
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:39 AM
  #11702  
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Does anyone know where you can get Edit Rc Products in the states?

Thanks,
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Old 04-06-2008, 07:06 AM
  #11703  
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Originally Posted by Hebiki
can a "non-properly" working diff cause the car to be loose everywhere?

just curious because im trying to nail down a set up for my AME cyclone...and maybe the root of all my problems is my diff?
Yes it can. The local AE guy here had a few troubles yesterday and once he rebuilt his diff his car was pretty good. This rule should be applied to every car. I just think that they diff in this car could use a little extra love. Once that's done go and set TQ
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Old 04-06-2008, 10:10 AM
  #11704  
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Originally Posted by JonboyGB
Apologies if this has been posted elsewhere. Just saw this pic from the recent LRP Masters in Germany. Looks like Andy Moores top deck has been cut for extra flex? He is also using the new bulkheads and main chassis with battery bits.
I was wondering the same lol..... My car is hooked up, but its something to try
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Old 04-06-2008, 10:39 AM
  #11705  
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Originally Posted by King of B Main
Good to hear Clint !!! We will see you guys May 3rd..... I will be building my car soon.... Any tips will be much appreciated..
Welcome aboard Mike!!
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:22 PM
  #11706  
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i got beat by one of though darn purple cars. if this keeps up i will have to switch.
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:29 PM
  #11707  
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Originally Posted by birdman
Guys, I need help with my Cyclone, why when I setup my car and check my toe-in for the rear wheels the reading is not the same from left to right. I am using a 3.0* pivot block for the rear but the reading can be left 3.0* and right 1.5*. Isn't it suppose to bothe side reads 3.0* if my pivot block is 3.0*? Is this something that I need to worry about or can I just ignore the different reading. I have use different setup kits to check, and it also give me different readings.
Hi Birdman, I purchased a moorespeed cyclone last week and built Friday/Saturday and did notice that my rear toe was not even both sides. It should be the same 3deg both sides with the 3 deg block. As you look at the car from the front the left rear wheel is only toeing in 1.5deg and the right 3deg when running the standard 3deg block.
I did speak to Mirage Technical and they have tried to help but no joy. I have disassembled the rear of the car and checked everything. I removed the rear pivot pins and rolled them along a flat piece of glass and they are perfect, I have swapped both rear wishbones and hubs for my Tamiya ones and still no change.
I did notice that my cyclone has different colour of carbon than older versions that makes up the chassis, top deck and suspension mounts. Mirage said that HPI have recently changed there carbon supplier and it looks like for a cheaper version IMO, the carbon weave bends as it runs down the chassis and is very light in shade in comparison to the older black carbon. I'm wondering if the holes are incorrectly positioned and this makes my car crab badly. I also do not no where to go next as it is very difficult to find the reason.

Can Anyone Help Please?
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:56 PM
  #11708  
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Originally Posted by blue247carz
Hi Birdman, I purchased a moorespeed cyclone last week and built Friday/Saturday and did notice that my rear toe was not even both sides. It should be the same 3deg both sides with the 3 deg block. As you look at the car from the front the left rear wheel is only toeing in 1.5deg and the right 3deg when running the standard 3deg block.
I did speak to Mirage Technical and they have tried to help but no joy. I have disassembled the rear of the car and checked everything. I removed the rear pivot pins and rolled them along a flat piece of glass and they are perfect, I have swapped both rear wishbones and hubs for my Tamiya ones and still no change.
I did notice that my cyclone has different colour of carbon than older versions that makes up the chassis, top deck and suspension mounts. Mirage said that HPI have recently changed there carbon supplier and it looks like for a cheaper version IMO, the carbon weave bends as it runs down the chassis and is very light in shade in comparison to the older black carbon. I'm wondering if the holes are incorrectly positioned and this makes my car crab badly. I also do not no where to go next as it is very difficult to find the reason.

Can Anyone Help Please?
Hello,
Could you please send some pics to the address that I pm'd you?

thank you.
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Old 04-06-2008, 03:09 PM
  #11709  
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow
Hello,
Could you please send some pics to the address that I pm'd you?

thank you.
Pictures Sent, Tried to get every angle.

Cheers Again
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Old 04-06-2008, 03:37 PM
  #11710  
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Originally Posted by xraysteve
i got beat by one of though darn purple cars. if this keeps up i will have to switch.
OH YEAH Cyclone dominated the track today I got 4 for 4...TQ and 1st. Now my car is not just the prettiest it's the fastest two. Steve you are going to have to get a Cyclone if you want to go any faster, that xray is just to slow.
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:45 PM
  #11711  
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow
Welcome aboard Mike!!
Thank you Hiro,

Definately need all your help....
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Old 04-07-2008, 01:53 PM
  #11712  
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well i have had the new diff in my car and it looks very good once again.
It took three practice runs, after that two qualifiers and two a-mains in the clubrace last weekend. the track was a bit muddy from the rain. it was dry but the rain usually washes some dirt on the track. so i was expecting to have the diff needing to be replaced quick. after every run i have checked it and it was okay so i continued.
so now it took 7runs and it still feels good. now it feels like the old diff after a rebuild so still fine for a few more runs
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:52 PM
  #11713  
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I tried to post my sey up on here but the file is too large. I will get it posted on gear chart in the morning. I can't remember my password right now.

Last edited by STLNLST; 04-07-2008 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 04-08-2008, 04:58 AM
  #11714  
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Default Help with BL fitting

Hi guys

I'm sure it's been discussed to death already but I'm a bit too tight on time to search thru 11000+ posts... so here's my question, thanks in advance

What is the shortest-geared spur/pinion combo that one can fit in the Cyclone with a Brushless (ie with a "flat" cage on the motor mount side, where you can really push the motor as far to the back as possible)? I've just picked up a 4.5 BL combo, which I'll run with Lipos (yeeeehaaaaw) and I'm trying to figure out if I can avoid purchasing the BL motor mount... thanks for the help!

Regards,
Paul
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Old 04-08-2008, 05:33 AM
  #11715  
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I ran 110-26 in my Cyclone all last summer, the 110 will stick out under the chassis but was not a problem, 108 is flush with the chassis. You will have to grind some off the rear top plate that holds the lay shaft down, also not a problem.
I hope that helps you.
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