BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

Ohhhhhh yes

like butter

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

oh...darnit now you have me worried

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

There alu is a very low grade.....

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

on my rubber tire car, i can't stop breaking graphite parts. I noticed that once i switched to aluminum steering knuckles i only break c-hubs.

The car is super weak, probably the most fragile i've ever owned, but once everything is upgraded to alloy its awsome. It just sucks that most of my parts have to come from Hong Kong.

When I tore apart my passenger side front suspension assy, I found the c-hub in peices and the CVD tore itself out of the axle.

Thank God these chinese hobby shops support the car 100%!

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I've had Square stuff Break!

Matt Pocknell

I wouldn't say the car is super weak. You must have very unfriendly track markings at your local, or you're hitting things very hard.

The graphite suspension parts are fine.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

Anyone's aluminum parts will bend in a big enough hit - its just some bend easier than others...

I'll say it again - nothing's worse then trying to chase down a "tweak" in the car only to find out its your $30 C-Hubs that you bought 2 days ago...

No matter how much you crash/tap the board/whatever - 95% of the time its better to run the composite parts...Yeah, its frustrating when they break in a race, but its still a HELL of a lot cheaper to replace

ABout the only places I'd ever replace alumninum would be: wheels hexes, pulleys (center), suspension holders. That's it - everything else will be composite, and I don't drive like a pro

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

I 2nd that!!

I've torn off the rear suspenion of my FK05 due to a track that had VERY unfriendly track barriers...

THis track decided to use PVC (very nice, right?) - but they had all the connector on the OUTSIDE!!! so every 8' or so, there was a huge "arm grapper" just waiting for someone to brush the barrier...and the worse part, the track owners never saw anything wrong with what they had set-up...I know I stopped going there after replacing 3 Rear arms/CVDs/Diff Outdrive on my XRAY - and the XRAY ain't a weak car!!

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

Again, im not saying it wont, but the alu is better quality..... I run all the stock plastic parts...

I think so to, it will break when you hit the corner just right, and it bugs me, but if I keep breaking that part, then I know I need to calm down, and stay off that turn cutting it so close....

Yeah, I like the purple though, im a sucker for it on this car

I might try the xray knuckles, and maybe C hubs, but I will see how much I break... Last year during summer I didnt break alot, it was more winter when I had no money for new tires and I was all over the place lol, then you get farther behind and try to push the car even more, and then your done, broke a few plastic things lol..... I am going to fix that this year though

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

its unfortunate that my local carpet track uses wood covered with smooth plastic as barriers. I hit pretty hard, but if I hit with the graphite parts they ALWAYS break no matter what.

Once is switched to aluminum the car doesn't break, or rarely i snap the arm or bend a hinge pin. I am all over the track until I get the right setup.

anyways the issue im having with my rubber tire cyclone is that the rear end hooks around or does a complete 180 around corners.

Currently Im using the carpet/rubber tire setup from hotbodiesonline.com.
If your not familair with it, if ic an recall:

camber: 1.5 neg
No roll center blocks
3 degrees rear toe in
0 degree front pivot block
0 degree front toe
jaco green pre-mounts
Full sauce all around
Caster: 4 degrees
50wt oil front + rear
stock pistons
Gold/silver HPI springs
4.5mm ride height
.5mm droop front and rear
190mm stratus body
Low-medium bite carpet

Matt Pocknell

What front axle are you using with that setup? I have some good starting points for diff and one-way.

Matt Pocknell

Also, what class are you running?

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

Im using MIP CVD wce axles. I put in the ball diff up front and currently waiting on alloy c-hubs to run the car as I ran out of right side graphite ones (9 total broken).

Im gonna try laying down the shocks 2 holes in to see if that helps. I wanna use the ball diff up front until I know how to drive the car and then switch to a spool or one-way.

class is stock sedan.

Stew Noble

I dont know why you break so many c-hubs, it's not common.

Try this....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rldCup2008.jpg

Copy it carefully, but as you run on low/med traction i suggest using 3mm under the front upper inner links, 5.5 droop and don't have the 2mm of rear roll bar exposed.

Stew

NickM

iTrader: (11)

I always find this kind of behaviour relates to the diff. Major and serious handling issues like this are rarely related to geometry and setup, IMO. It also could be a massive tweak, in which case it will only happen when turning one way.

Unlike my old xray's, I find the cyclone is particularly sensitive to diff setup. Too loose or too tight, and the car just loops around in exactly the way you describe. I'd get rid of the front diff so you only have one to worry about, and experiment with the tightness of the rear. Use the one way for stock 27t or 19t class rather than the spool. Don't forget to locktite the diff nut once you're done experimenting.