Hot Bodies Cyclone
#9496
I have a question one way guys
I run a spool, But most people in stock run one ways, I mean the fastest guy at my track runs a spool, but he runs a xray
I want more steering flat out, I need more on AND off power steering, like not just give it more dual rate, I need more then that, while trying to keep the cvd's from binding up
And since my swap to BL I have lots more power which made it worse, I could never get the inside pass in the tight turns, And the guy I battle with uses a t2007 with a one way
What should I change to give me more all around steering?
Or should I go to a one way? What would I change to move to a one way?
EDIT, guess I should tell you guys what im running now
2deg on camber front and rear
3.0 pivot block in the rear, 2.5 in the front
40wt shock oil
Hara's grey soft shock spring kit
silver sway bar up front, black in the back
0 toe in the front
4 degree c hubs
front shock are in the 3rd hole being stood up
Rear shocks are in the 4th hole from being stoo down
3mm of ackerman
Thats it lol, any other info needed, ask me, I want to get this going
EDIT 2
I have the moore speed.. So I have the center one way and the front one way, Should I do the center and front? Or what should I do?
I run a spool, But most people in stock run one ways, I mean the fastest guy at my track runs a spool, but he runs a xray
I want more steering flat out, I need more on AND off power steering, like not just give it more dual rate, I need more then that, while trying to keep the cvd's from binding up
And since my swap to BL I have lots more power which made it worse, I could never get the inside pass in the tight turns, And the guy I battle with uses a t2007 with a one way
What should I change to give me more all around steering?
Or should I go to a one way? What would I change to move to a one way?
EDIT, guess I should tell you guys what im running now
2deg on camber front and rear
3.0 pivot block in the rear, 2.5 in the front
40wt shock oil
Hara's grey soft shock spring kit
silver sway bar up front, black in the back
0 toe in the front
4 degree c hubs
front shock are in the 3rd hole being stood up
Rear shocks are in the 4th hole from being stoo down
3mm of ackerman
Thats it lol, any other info needed, ask me, I want to get this going
EDIT 2
I have the moore speed.. So I have the center one way and the front one way, Should I do the center and front? Or what should I do?
No one wants to help me? I need some steering in this baby! Some tuned steering, in and off power, not dual rate, or epa
#9498
My rear shocks are pretty layed down
#9500
But I was running no sway bar, and then I put my silver back on, and Vill (local racer) told me to try black, And it drove pretty good, But I will put my silver back on
What would a stiffer sway bar do? I thought it would limit traction in the rear being stiff
#9501
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
I have a question one way guys
I run a spool, But most people in stock run one ways, I mean the fastest guy at my track runs a spool, but he runs a xray
I want more steering flat out, I need more on AND off power steering, like not just give it more dual rate, I need more then that, while trying to keep the cvd's from binding up
And since my swap to BL I have lots more power which made it worse, I could never get the inside pass in the tight turns, And the guy I battle with uses a t2007 with a one way
What should I change to give me more all around steering?
Or should I go to a one way? What would I change to move to a one way?
EDIT, guess I should tell you guys what im running now
2deg on camber front and rear 1.5deg F/R
3.0 pivot block in the rear, 2.5 in the front no change
40wt shock oil 35wt F / 30wt R
Hara's grey soft shock spring kit med in front/ sof in rear.
silver sway bar up front, black in the back No! silver in front copper in rear
0 toe in the frontok
4 degree c hubs ok
front shock are in the 3rd hole being stood up wce tower: 3rd hole from the inside
Rear shocks are in the 4th hole from being stoo downwce tower: 5th from the inside
3mm of ackerman 4mm
Thats it lol, any other info needed, ask me, I want to get this going
EDIT 2
I have the moore speed.. So I have the center one way and the front one way, Should I do the center and front? Or what should I do? if you're running stock - try thr front one-way only in front only. no center oneway just remember when using a one-way do not use your breaks. practice alot with it.. if you don't like it.. switch back to the spool.
also camber links in the inner holes.
F: 3mm R: 1.5mm
ride ht: R: 5.mm F: 4.5mm
I run a spool, But most people in stock run one ways, I mean the fastest guy at my track runs a spool, but he runs a xray
I want more steering flat out, I need more on AND off power steering, like not just give it more dual rate, I need more then that, while trying to keep the cvd's from binding up
And since my swap to BL I have lots more power which made it worse, I could never get the inside pass in the tight turns, And the guy I battle with uses a t2007 with a one way
What should I change to give me more all around steering?
Or should I go to a one way? What would I change to move to a one way?
EDIT, guess I should tell you guys what im running now
2deg on camber front and rear 1.5deg F/R
3.0 pivot block in the rear, 2.5 in the front no change
40wt shock oil 35wt F / 30wt R
Hara's grey soft shock spring kit med in front/ sof in rear.
silver sway bar up front, black in the back No! silver in front copper in rear
0 toe in the frontok
4 degree c hubs ok
front shock are in the 3rd hole being stood up wce tower: 3rd hole from the inside
Rear shocks are in the 4th hole from being stoo downwce tower: 5th from the inside
3mm of ackerman 4mm
Thats it lol, any other info needed, ask me, I want to get this going
EDIT 2
I have the moore speed.. So I have the center one way and the front one way, Should I do the center and front? Or what should I do? if you're running stock - try thr front one-way only in front only. no center oneway just remember when using a one-way do not use your breaks. practice alot with it.. if you don't like it.. switch back to the spool.
also camber links in the inner holes.
F: 3mm R: 1.5mm
ride ht: R: 5.mm F: 4.5mm
I'll tune your car next time I get to SWR. hopefully soon. the same way I tuned Brad's car a few months ago..
#9502
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (22)
What droop are you running probably one of the most useful tunning aids you can do.
Less droop(arms closer to bottom of chassis) more steering higher droop less steering.
Read the manual and just try one extreme of droop to the other and see what you think.
This car is probably the car with the most amount of front traction available as to why not enough steering. It will most likely be a droop issue.
#9503
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Hey Guys
Havent posted in a while , but that because of all the great help on this thread...heaps to learn here...
My WCE AM cyclone is runnin real good and can allways do better,,,but now handles(goes sidways, not around)......so happy.......
To anyone wanting better set up than is give on this site.....you can be told how to ,,,,,but you will get even better once you learn how to set a car...I am.....
CHEERS to all fellow cycloner's
PS lovin the 13.5 class
As xxx mains says" all the alli carbon hop ups are nothin unless you can setup"
Havent posted in a while , but that because of all the great help on this thread...heaps to learn here...
My WCE AM cyclone is runnin real good and can allways do better,,,but now handles(goes sidways, not around)......so happy.......
To anyone wanting better set up than is give on this site.....you can be told how to ,,,,,but you will get even better once you learn how to set a car...I am.....
CHEERS to all fellow cycloner's
PS lovin the 13.5 class
As xxx mains says" all the alli carbon hop ups are nothin unless you can setup"
Last edited by ROV; 08-24-2007 at 04:47 AM. Reason: caus i can
#9504
Tech Regular
How to handle and charge/decharge the battery
Hey,
I like to know from somebody how i can get the best performance from
my battery (intellect 4200).
I see that the fresh EU champ is running a LRP 3.5t and it seems that
he running the full 300sec. with out any problem?
Please explain to me how this works, i like to learn.
Fasteddy
I like to know from somebody how i can get the best performance from
my battery (intellect 4200).
I see that the fresh EU champ is running a LRP 3.5t and it seems that
he running the full 300sec. with out any problem?
Please explain to me how this works, i like to learn.
Fasteddy
#9505
Hey,
I like to know from somebody how i can get the best performance from
my battery (intellect 4200).
I see that the fresh EU champ is running a LRP 3.5t and it seems that
he running the full 300sec. with out any problem?
Please explain to me how this works, i like to learn.
Fasteddy
I like to know from somebody how i can get the best performance from
my battery (intellect 4200).
I see that the fresh EU champ is running a LRP 3.5t and it seems that
he running the full 300sec. with out any problem?
Please explain to me how this works, i like to learn.
Fasteddy
I think you're better off asking it in another thread.
But anyway, From my personal point of view I would say there are more factors involved to make the runtime with such a motor.
The biggest factor will be the drivingstyle. How efficient you can drive, like at the end of the straight letting the car roll rather than pushing it towards the corner at full throttle. I always keep in mind the "smooth is fast" method, but other things like gearing and track layout can also have a huge effect on your runtime. If you run on a wide open track where you drive a lot on full throttle you will save energy, instead off on a let's say technical indoor carpet track where have to drain a lot of energy out of the batteries because you have to accelerate more.
We'll probably discuse on this subject further tommorrow on the track.
#9506
But sounds good!
What droop are you running probably one of the most useful tunning aids you can do.
Less droop(arms closer to bottom of chassis) more steering higher droop less steering.
Read the manual and just try one extreme of droop to the other and see what you think.
This car is probably the car with the most amount of front traction available as to why not enough steering. It will most likely be a droop issue.
Less droop(arms closer to bottom of chassis) more steering higher droop less steering.
Read the manual and just try one extreme of droop to the other and see what you think.
This car is probably the car with the most amount of front traction available as to why not enough steering. It will most likely be a droop issue.
Droop is at 5mm in the rear, 4.5 in the front
#9507
Tech Regular
Hey Ed, you also here!
I think you're better off asking it in another thread.
But anyway, From my personal point of view I would say there are more factors involved to make the runtime with such a motor.
The biggest factor will be the drivingstyle. How efficient you can drive, like at the end of the straight letting the car roll rather than pushing it towards the corner at full throttle. I always keep in mind the "smooth is fast" method, but other things like gearing and track layout can also have a huge effect on your runtime. If you run on a wide open track where you drive a lot on full throttle you will save energy, instead off on a let's say technical indoor carpet track where have to drain a lot of energy out of the batteries because you have to accelerate more.
We'll probably discuse on this subject further tommorrow on the track.
I think you're better off asking it in another thread.
But anyway, From my personal point of view I would say there are more factors involved to make the runtime with such a motor.
The biggest factor will be the drivingstyle. How efficient you can drive, like at the end of the straight letting the car roll rather than pushing it towards the corner at full throttle. I always keep in mind the "smooth is fast" method, but other things like gearing and track layout can also have a huge effect on your runtime. If you run on a wide open track where you drive a lot on full throttle you will save energy, instead off on a let's say technical indoor carpet track where have to drain a lot of energy out of the batteries because you have to accelerate more.
We'll probably discuse on this subject further tommorrow on the track.
#9508
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (22)
Droop is at 5mm in the rear, 4.5 in the front[/QUOTE]
What rollcentre,s are you using, a lower one can also help the setups that we read for Hara, Andy Moore etc are more than likely on tracks with higher traction than us club racers race on.
Try 4mm on the rear droop it will give more weight transfer to the front should help you.
What rollcentre,s are you using, a lower one can also help the setups that we read for Hara, Andy Moore etc are more than likely on tracks with higher traction than us club racers race on.
Try 4mm on the rear droop it will give more weight transfer to the front should help you.
#9509
What rollcentre,s are you using, a lower one can also help the setups that we read for Hara, Andy Moore etc are more than likely on tracks with higher traction than us club racers race on.
Try 4mm on the rear droop it will give more weight transfer to the front should help you.
I have no shims at all under the blocks....
4mm with 4.5 in the front? Like Ramon (Zombies) said, he will tune my car next time hes at swr, I HOPE thats friday lol...
But I will try that
#9510
toe
along with the 2.5 piviot block up front how much more toe do you guys run when you put it on the setup board and would it be pos or neg.running asphalt high speed track.