Hot Bodies Cyclone


Old 12-03-2008, 07:13 PM
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also, noticed that the steering turnbuckle hits just a bit on the top of the purple front hinge pin holder/brace when turning it one way, but not on the other side, any suggestions as to why?
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:32 PM
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uneven droop settings... or the car is tweaked?
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:35 PM
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it's brand new, just finished building it, checked the droop setting, how do I check if it is tweaked?
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:38 PM
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place the chassis on a flat surface or set-up board. if the chassis doesn't sit flat then its tweaked. loosen the topdeck screws and retighten making sure the chassis sits flat.

also, make sure the shims under the FR suspension block are the same.
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:39 PM
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Thank you, I appreciate the help
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by KustomRCGraphic View Post
also, noticed that the steering turnbuckle hits just a bit on the top of the purple front hinge pin holder/brace when turning it one way, but not on the other side, any suggestions as to why?
It can bind a touch, but if the car is not fully loaded there is less clearance.
There are hara build notes somewhere and he dremels down the corner of the FR (or whatever) block.

Last edited by mangoman; 12-04-2008 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Cruisaaja View Post
Thanks mangoman.

Where i can buy high quality ceramic ballbearing set for my CycloneTC?
http://www.acerracing.com/ $7.99 each No, I'm not associated with them, I just happen to use the bearings.
Boca makes various flavours of ceramics with different seals and tolerances (you could go all the way up to ABEC7), but they are all more expensive than the acers.
To cover the drivetrain, you'll need 8 5x10's for the hubs, 4 10x15's for the diffs, and 2 4x8's for the layshaft. I wouldn't recommend ceramics inside the diff, on the steering arm or on the belt tensioner, since the load on those bearings is fairly low.
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Old 12-04-2008, 03:09 PM
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My son is brand new to touring car, can some one please give us a starting point for pinion choice in the new Hot Bodies TC, stock 100 tooth spur, using a 17.5 brushless and lipo. I would really appreciate any help with this
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by KustomRCGraphic View Post
My son is brand new to touring car, can some one please give us a starting point for pinion choice in the new Hot Bodies TC, stock 100 tooth spur, using a 17.5 brushless and lipo. I would really appreciate any help with this
I don't have 17.5 but the final gear ratio you should start around 4. I heard some people they run around 3.7. Spur/Pinion * Internal (2.1666) = FGR.
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by KustomRCGraphic View Post
My son is brand new to touring car, can some one please give us a starting point for pinion choice in the new Hot Bodies TC, stock 100 tooth spur, using a 17.5 brushless and lipo. I would really appreciate any help with this
for a good starting point(about 3.5fdr as per novak website), try 85t spur/53t pinion, as I am not sure that you will get a large enough pinion to fit on the car with tho 100t. this is the smallest pinion that you will be able to use, as I do not think that a 52t will fit. I have run a novak ss pro and a speedpassion at this combo and both felt ok(Large ashphalt track-low traction). SP motor proably needed to go to a ration closer to 3.6, but I coud not make it happen with the gearing availiable to me.

good luck, the car is pretty good out of the box IMO...
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:42 AM
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running a 13.5 Orion with an FDR of around 3.9, i'm already running a 90t 64p spur with a 49t pinion. it looks kinda funny with the pinion being almost as big as the spur.

was told that going with a smaller spur (i.e. 88) the car kinda runs flat with no oomph out of corners. so i never bothered trying it out.
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Old 12-05-2008, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
running a 13.5 Orion with an FDR of around 3.9, i'm already running a 90t 64p spur with a 49t pinion. it looks kinda funny with the pinion being almost as big as the spur.

was told that going with a smaller spur (i.e. 88) the car kinda runs flat with no oomph out of corners. so i never bothered trying it out.
if you think that looks funny - you should see a 76spur with a 64t pinion

I am running that in my USVTA cyclone - but i'll tell you one thing, its quiet

I'm running a 17.5 in that car
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:31 AM
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Default cyclone tc

hi guy's
what is the most common parts that break on a cyclone tc
to have in stock belt arm c'hub etc etc
thanks
pete
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:10 PM
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Thanks guys for the gearing help, I appreciate it!
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by pete68 View Post
hi guy's
what is the most common parts that break on a cyclone tc
to have in stock belt arm c'hub etc etc
thanks
pete
arms, c hubs, steering blocks/rear hubs and outer hinge pins. That is all I have gone through in 6 months or so of racing. The arms seem really brittle and do not take much of a hit to break, but my home track is pretty hard on cars though. I keep pretty much one of everything(bar chassis and shock towers) in my pit box, but I hate not being able to fix the car if it does break. The stock hinge pins have all broken in my car, but I got the ti coated ones and they have been really good, with only one failure, but it was a big hit that broke it

I would also get some of the HD ball cups and use them all through the car(steering etc) as they have less slop than the others. There is a guide to building which Hara shows how he builds his cars, and that has some good tips which will make the car more reliable and easier to work on. IMO the ball cups on this car should be treated as a consumable and replaced every time you rebuild the car.
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