Hot Bodies Cyclone
#1441
Originally Posted by S-T-R-l-K-E-R
nexus racing - justo got my kit today. thanks for all. great service and fast shipping..
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
it should might be a little slow...
I think that's the hight torque version.
I think that's the hight torque version.
Didn't you see pics somewhere of a dremeled front bridge (toe block) that left room for the steering parts when adding spacers underneath the bridge? Where are those?
#1442
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by Nexus Racing
.....
Hey rc-zombies,
Didn't you see pics somewhere of a dremeled front bridge (toe block) that left room for the steering parts when adding spacers underneath the bridge? Where are those?
Hey rc-zombies,
Didn't you see pics somewhere of a dremeled front bridge (toe block) that left room for the steering parts when adding spacers underneath the bridge? Where are those?
I put 1mm spacers under mine...and have no problem with clearance.
#1443
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Thanks rc-zombie,
As for the tamiya univ., the drive shaft is a little shorter, and the axle is the same but the mounting hole for the drive shaft is a little more to the outside so all togehter its almost the same length. Plus the tamiya axles have two sets of pin holes for mounting the drive shaft, so when one wears out you can switch it to the other.
I haven't run it at SWR yet, only on carpet at Stockton last Sat. with my new Novak Brushless. So I didn't do to well with breaking every run and trying to fing the rollout for the Brushless, but Billy and I are going to go next Wendsday night.
As for the tamiya univ., the drive shaft is a little shorter, and the axle is the same but the mounting hole for the drive shaft is a little more to the outside so all togehter its almost the same length. Plus the tamiya axles have two sets of pin holes for mounting the drive shaft, so when one wears out you can switch it to the other.
I haven't run it at SWR yet, only on carpet at Stockton last Sat. with my new Novak Brushless. So I didn't do to well with breaking every run and trying to fing the rollout for the Brushless, but Billy and I are going to go next Wendsday night.
#1444
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
haven't seen those pics...
I put 1mm spacers under mine...and have no problem with clearance.
I put 1mm spacers under mine...and have no problem with clearance.
The problem is when I want to add 1.5mm of spacers (like in one of hara's setups). It will give clearance at rest, but when I configure any significant amount of droop, the turnbuckle will hit the bridge when the suspension lifts. It gets even worse if I want to increase the ackerman.
I have 1mm under the bridge right now and it seems OK...but just on the edge. I was making these changes rather quickly on a race day, so I have not had a chance to look at it more closely...
#1445
Well after being out of the hobby for about 5 or 6 years i'll be comming back sometime in the new year. And my choice of weapon will be the cyclone
#1446
When i get my Cyclone is there anything eles i should be getting?
#1447
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by Nexus Racing
Hmmm...I thought I saw you post something about a dremel fix.
The problem is when I want to add 1.5mm of spacers (like in one of hara's setups). It will give clearance at rest, but when I configure any significant amount of droop, the turnbuckle will hit the bridge when the suspension lifts. It gets even worse if I want to increase the ackerman.
I have 1mm under the bridge right now and it seems OK...but just on the edge. I was making these changes rather quickly on a race day, so I have not had a chance to look at it more closely...
The problem is when I want to add 1.5mm of spacers (like in one of hara's setups). It will give clearance at rest, but when I configure any significant amount of droop, the turnbuckle will hit the bridge when the suspension lifts. It gets even worse if I want to increase the ackerman.
I have 1mm under the bridge right now and it seems OK...but just on the edge. I was making these changes rather quickly on a race day, so I have not had a chance to look at it more closely...
#1449
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by Scott B
Thanks rc-zombie,
As for the tamiya univ., the drive shaft is a little shorter, and the axle is the same but the mounting hole for the drive shaft is a little more to the outside so all togehter its almost the same length. Plus the tamiya axles have two sets of pin holes for mounting the drive shaft, so when one wears out you can switch it to the other.
I haven't run it at SWR yet, only on carpet at Stockton last Sat. with my new Novak Brushless. So I didn't do to well with breaking every run and trying to fing the rollout for the Brushless, but Billy and I are going to go next Wendsday night.
As for the tamiya univ., the drive shaft is a little shorter, and the axle is the same but the mounting hole for the drive shaft is a little more to the outside so all togehter its almost the same length. Plus the tamiya axles have two sets of pin holes for mounting the drive shaft, so when one wears out you can switch it to the other.
I haven't run it at SWR yet, only on carpet at Stockton last Sat. with my new Novak Brushless. So I didn't do to well with breaking every run and trying to fing the rollout for the Brushless, but Billy and I are going to go next Wendsday night.
or you can cut up some Kydex to make a wider bumper or do what every Pro4 racer is doing...using the bud's TC3 wide bumper plate.
#1451
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
or one of the p-dub me too's...
Rubberneck Racing.
#1453
Raced last night on foams on carpet. Took a couple of heats to get a good setup and then the car was great. I ended up qualifying 2nd from a lower heat. In the final I got away well and then after a couple of laps collided with someone who was on the opposite side of the track. After that I made another couple of mistakes and then broke the ball stud which goes into the servo saver. I think I need to get some titanium ones of those
One thing that I did notice however is that my turnbuckle for the steering was rubbing on the F/R block, with no spacing on the block. I did rebuild the servo saver after the last race but I can't see anything that I put back together wrong.
One thing that I did notice however is that my turnbuckle for the steering was rubbing on the F/R block, with no spacing on the block. I did rebuild the servo saver after the last race but I can't see anything that I put back together wrong.
#1454
Does anyone know when the carpet chassis will be out? I think it will be 3.5mm....
Thanks.
Thanks.
#1455
Hara raced 4mm so i dont now