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Old 11-12-2008, 02:45 PM   #14461
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Originally Posted by Ramyuras View Post
Yyhsyym thanks for the info but I know all that stuff already just can't figure out why my ratio is different.
Oh...sorry bro...well, it's probably because of the internal ratio changes when you went from the stock pulley to the 18T center pulleys.

Witht he stock 16T Pulley internal ratio is 2.4375, but with the 18T center pulleys, it changes to 2.166.

If you're using the 18T pulleys now, your interan is 2.166, and your gearing calculations have to be made with the 2.166 ratio.

Others might be offering gearing info but are probably using the 16T pulleys 2.4375 IR, and didn't realize you were using the 18T pulleys, and that's why it appears you were off.
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:34 AM   #14462
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
Salut les gars , je pensai etre le seul francais ici mais non , c'est cool car si ca vous derange pas j'ai des question a propo de ma cyclone WCE , plutot des probleme que des question .
Je vais peut etre melanger les mot englai avec le francais mais pas beaucoup .
Alors , quand je regle ma cyclone comme le droop , jutilise des droop gauges mes a droit ca affiche 5.5 est a gauche ca affiche 7 pour que mes roue ce leve au meme moment sur une surface plate .
C'est a dire que ci je met 5.5 droite gauche de droop , la roue de gauche touche le sol avant le roue droite , donc il faut qur je mette 7 gauche et 5.5 droite pour que mes 2 roue touch le sol en meme temps .
Je roule avec 5 cell en avant alor esce que le probleme c'est que a cause du poid du moteur a la gauche , la roue gauche apuie plus a cause du poid comparer a la roue droite qui a moin de poid car mes batterie sont a lavant.
Esce que vous pouvez m'aide sil vous plait , Merci d'avance les mec .
Salut

let's keep the french language to the non-serious discussions otherwise we'll PO the other readers.

- make sure the shocks have the same length 2 by 2
- no matter what make sure they are long enough to not limit the a-arms; the droop screws should do that, not the shocks
- make sure chassis is perfectly flat (shouldn't move on the droop stands)
- set the droop symmetrically on the droop gauges fist
that takes care of the tweak - your car is now flat and symmetrical

now
- put wheels back on
- then set ride height
- set camber
- then pump the rear shocks
- then lift the front wheels
- if the front left lifts first, then screw in the rear right shock collar by a bit and unscrew the rear left by the same bit, that "tilts" the car while keeping ride height the same
- repeat till front wheels lift at the same time
- Do the same with the rear end
- check camber-ride height and repeat till correct
that takes care of the rest - your car should now drive as close as straight as possible when braking and accelerating

the above assumes the static weights are properly distributed. I remember my FK05 was 100% balanced with GP3300... but with lipos it's obviously light on the lipo side and no amount of shock preload will ever fix that, so you have to adjust the best you can and find a proper tradeoff.

NOW - the real reality check is to properly measure and adjust corner weight with 4 scales, adjust with the shock preload, and add weight on the one light corner once you can't do any better. But that's pushing it a bit.

Car tweak is not simple

Paul
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Old 11-13-2008, 08:14 AM   #14463
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Who know this guy??



whit this car... (new Hotbodies???)

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Old 11-13-2008, 09:21 AM   #14464
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Wink

here comes the x-clone again

if hara, moore and the other HB hotshots run the "standard" car, this means this is anything but a the new cyclone but, as said, a well-realised, creative privateer's effort.

no worries anyway - the cyclone (even the non-TC one) is still just as fast as anything out there

Paul
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Old 11-13-2008, 09:45 AM   #14465
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based on the topdeck it looks like a Mi3...
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Old 11-13-2008, 09:49 AM   #14466
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
no worries anyway - the cyclone (even the non-TC one) is still just as fast as anything out there
**COUGH** **COUGH**

Faster

Looks like there is more room to fit LiPos.
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Old 11-13-2008, 09:53 AM   #14467
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Salut

let's keep the french language to the non-serious discussions otherwise we'll PO the other readers.

- make sure the shocks have the same length 2 by 2
- no matter what make sure they are long enough to not limit the a-arms; the droop screws should do that, not the shocks
- make sure chassis is perfectly flat (shouldn't move on the droop stands)
- set the droop symmetrically on the droop gauges fist
that takes care of the tweak - your car is now flat and symmetrical

now
- put wheels back on
- then set ride height
- set camber
- then pump the rear shocks
- then lift the front wheels
- if the front left lifts first, then screw in the rear right shock collar by a bit and unscrew the rear left by the same bit, that "tilts" the car while keeping ride height the same
- repeat till front wheels lift at the same time
- Do the same with the rear end
- check camber-ride height and repeat till correct
that takes care of the rest - your car should now drive as close as straight as possible when braking and accelerating

the above assumes the static weights are properly distributed. I remember my FK05 was 100% balanced with GP3300... but with lipos it's obviously light on the lipo side and no amount of shock preload will ever fix that, so you have to adjust the best you can and find a proper tradeoff.

NOW - the real reality check is to properly measure and adjust corner weight with 4 scales, adjust with the shock preload, and add weight on the one light corner once you can't do any better. But that's pushing it a bit.

Car tweak is not simple

Paul
Ok , but i will try everything , set it up properly and i will de tweak it with 4 scales , cheers for the help
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Old 11-13-2008, 12:22 PM   #14468
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Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
based on the topdeck it looks like a Mi3...
looks more like an Xray '008 low traction top deck
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Old 11-13-2008, 01:44 PM   #14469
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how would you guys compare a tc5 to the new cyclone tc? I can't decide between the two which kit I want,,,, the biggest difference i could find is that the cyclone has that multidiff.
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:48 PM   #14470
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I'm putting the new TC arms on my Moore edition and I noticed that the front steering links are now angled forward where as they were in line to each other with the old arms. I know this will effect ackerman but has anybody noticed a big (any) difference in steering feel ?
Thanks.
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:56 PM   #14471
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I'm putting the new TC arms on my Moore edition and I noticed that the front steering links are now angled forward where as they were in line to each other with the old arms. I know this will effect ackerman but has anybody noticed a big (any) difference in steering feel ?
Thanks.
I never noticed that difference or shall I say I didn't really pay attention to it. I will put on the original arms this weekend and see if the ackerman is different. I didn't care for the new shock mounting holes on the arms and went back to the standard holes.
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Old 11-13-2008, 03:48 PM   #14472
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Originally Posted by TJames987 View Post
how would you guys compare a tc5 to the new cyclone tc? I can't decide between the two which kit I want,,,, the biggest difference i could find is that the cyclone has that multidiff.
Cyclone, More consistent and the shocks don't leak as it seems all of the tc5rs' have 2 leaky shocks. The cyclone also seems to be more solid and less slop in the suspension. Also I have seen many stripped spurs on the tc5's. I can also give you a pretty good setup for the cyclone at the Coliseum, and if you decide to run it mod outdoors it will handle the power fine.
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Old 11-13-2008, 04:26 PM   #14473
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim View Post
looks more like an Xray '008 low traction top deck
The steering looks like a xray part also. I wonder if all this stuff fits? Makes the cyclone look nice, and more room for wires and such
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:05 PM   #14474
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Apparently when you try to de-tweak a car with 4 scales you have to take the shocks off. Otherwise different preloads on the shocks will distribute the weight differently.

I built some shocks with spacers in them so they cant move (old cyclone S plastic ones which i wasnt using )
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Old 11-13-2008, 10:24 PM   #14475
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Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Apparently when you try to de-tweak a car with 4 scales you have to take the shocks off. Otherwise different preloads on the shocks will distribute the weight differently.

I built some shocks with spacers in them so they cant move (old cyclone S plastic ones which i wasnt using )
I am soooooooo glad I read your comment... I just purchased 4 scales and was having a hell of a time trying to figure out how to move my weight around the chassis... I found myself spending 30 + min screwing with the shock preload and I gave up... I didn't know what the hell I was doing Now I will attack the problem again like you suggested ( shocks detached ) , move my weights around then de-tweak on my Hudy board... If anyone has any suggestions or tips on de-tweaking with scales I would love to know... Thanks...
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