Hot Bodies Cyclone
12-14-2007, 09:16 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (55)
Watchout- I just grabbed Hara's cyclone from the Vegas race and took a look at his setup. I also consulted with one of our guys that runs on-road regularly and here are a couple of changes that might help.
(It is recommended that you make the changes below in the order listed. You should make one change at a time, run it, and then decide whether or not you'd like to change more; or if it doesn't feel good to you, whether you should change it back)
#1 Change the ackerman. The standard setup is to run (2) 2mm shims behind the ballstud for the steering ackerman. Try removing one of those shims and running just (1) 2mm shim.
#2 Soften the rear spring. Try going to blue springs in the rear to soften up the car slightly. We would also recommend standing the rear shocks up slightly by moving out a couple of holes in the tower.
#3 After trying the rear spring change you may also try running a white front spring which is one step firmer than the golds you are currently running.
#4 If you're still having trouble you can work with tires. If you're currently saucing the whole front try saucing just the inner half; you may also run a bead of glue around the side-wall of the front tires to prevent them from folding as much.
*IMPORTANT if you do glue the side-walls be sure not to get any glue on the surface of the tire that contacts the carpet.
Hope this works well for you,
Happy Racing,
Jeremy
(It is recommended that you make the changes below in the order listed. You should make one change at a time, run it, and then decide whether or not you'd like to change more; or if it doesn't feel good to you, whether you should change it back)
#1 Change the ackerman. The standard setup is to run (2) 2mm shims behind the ballstud for the steering ackerman. Try removing one of those shims and running just (1) 2mm shim.
#2 Soften the rear spring. Try going to blue springs in the rear to soften up the car slightly. We would also recommend standing the rear shocks up slightly by moving out a couple of holes in the tower.
#3 After trying the rear spring change you may also try running a white front spring which is one step firmer than the golds you are currently running.
#4 If you're still having trouble you can work with tires. If you're currently saucing the whole front try saucing just the inner half; you may also run a bead of glue around the side-wall of the front tires to prevent them from folding as much.
*IMPORTANT if you do glue the side-walls be sure not to get any glue on the surface of the tire that contacts the carpet.
Hope this works well for you,
Happy Racing,
Jeremy
. Thanks for the feedback.Mitch
12-14-2007, 09:48 AM
Cool Mitch, let us know how those changes work for you. I'm sure others have gone through (or are going through) similar issues.
Marcos- Man all this talk about Hara's setup being out of hand really makes me want to try it. Maybe we could hold a "Hara Setup" spec race and see whom could go the longest without wadding it up.
Marcos- Man all this talk about Hara's setup being out of hand really makes me want to try it. Maybe we could hold a "Hara Setup" spec race and see whom could go the longest without wadding it up.
12-14-2007, 10:20 AM
Would adding sway-bars not help the traction roll problem? Anytime I had too much side-bite, I've added a sway bar and the problem went away since the car will stay flatter in the turn.
12-14-2007, 10:34 AM
Cool Mitch, let us know how those changes work for you. I'm sure others have gone through (or are going through) similar issues.
Marcos- Man all this talk about Hara's setup being out of hand really makes me want to try it. Maybe we could hold a "Hara Setup" spec race and see whom could go the longest without wadding it up.
Marcos- Man all this talk about Hara's setup being out of hand really makes me want to try it. Maybe we could hold a "Hara Setup" spec race and see whom could go the longest without wadding it up.
12-14-2007, 10:52 AM
Duckman- Thats a good point. I had assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that he was running the swaybars as we run them just about everywhere.
So in addition to the above recommendations if you're not running the swaybars you should start with our silver bar up front and copper in the rear. This is the standard rubber tire swaybar setup.
So in addition to the above recommendations if you're not running the swaybars you should start with our silver bar up front and copper in the rear. This is the standard rubber tire swaybar setup.
12-14-2007, 10:52 AM
Duckman- Thats a good point. I had assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that he was running the swaybars as we run them just about everywhere.
So in addition to the above recommendations if you're not running the swaybars you should start with our silver bar up front and copper in the rear. This is the standard rubber tire swaybar setup.
So in addition to the above recommendations if you're not running the swaybars you should start with our silver bar up front and copper in the rear. This is the standard rubber tire swaybar setup.
12-14-2007, 10:55 AM
Yea I get dressed to the sound of "that'll be 200 dollars" 
12-14-2007, 01:04 PM
I have used this for one race meeting so far, it felt very good, and the rebuild was much easier.....With this the thrust balls nolonger run on the diff screw creating a groove and making the diff action a bit gritty after time.....
12-14-2007, 01:20 PM
Hi everyone,
I'm running 10.5, rubber on carpet and when the traction comes up, I develop some moderate traction rolling. What setup changes are most effective at eliminating the problem? Here's my current setup:
Springs: FR-Gold, R-Silver
Roll Centers: 1.5mm all around
Droop: FR-5.5mm, R-5.0mm
Shock Oil: 50wt all around
Shock Positions: Middle holes, front and rear
Camber: 1.5 deg all around
Castor: 4 deg
Toe: -.5 deg
Thanks for the help.
I'm running 10.5, rubber on carpet and when the traction comes up, I develop some moderate traction rolling. What setup changes are most effective at eliminating the problem? Here's my current setup:
Springs: FR-Gold, R-Silver
Roll Centers: 1.5mm all around
Droop: FR-5.5mm, R-5.0mm
Shock Oil: 50wt all around
Shock Positions: Middle holes, front and rear
Camber: 1.5 deg all around
Castor: 4 deg
Toe: -.5 deg
Thanks for the help.
I think running white front and blue rear springs together will be a mistake, the gap is huge, the rear will collapse so much on longer turns but the front will be quite stiff and initially reactive but seriously lack traction, the push will be huge....
What bodyshell do you use?....I recommend Protoform Mazda 6 or Mazdaspeed 6 depending on track layout...
12-14-2007, 01:55 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (55)
Try 1.5 or 1.0 front piviot block.....60wt shock oil and 2 hole piston.....sway bars, begin with 1.2 rear and 1.4 front.....
I think running white front and blue rear springs together will be a mistake, the gap is huge, the rear will collapse so much on longer turns but the front will be quite stiff and initially reactive but seriously lack traction, the push will be huge....
What bodyshell do you use?....I recommend Protoform Mazda 6 or Mazdaspeed 6 depending on track layout...
I think running white front and blue rear springs together will be a mistake, the gap is huge, the rear will collapse so much on longer turns but the front will be quite stiff and initially reactive but seriously lack traction, the push will be huge....
What bodyshell do you use?....I recommend Protoform Mazda 6 or Mazdaspeed 6 depending on track layout...
Thanks,
12-14-2007, 02:37 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I am also running rubber tires on carpet and the suggestions here are a big help !!!!!!!! Are these set up suggestions for 2 diffs ????
Thank you
Russ
Thank you
Russ
12-14-2007, 02:47 PM
12-14-2007, 02:49 PM
Russ/All- Most of our guys have moved away from a front diff all together. At IIC in Vegas our guys ran both the front and center oneways together on carpet.
12-14-2007, 04:13 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (55)
I'll concur with the "no diff" sentiment. Currently using a one way for stock/13.5 and a spool with the 10.5.
Mitch
Mitch
12-14-2007, 04:25 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Would it be the same for a small technical track ( diff or one way ) and it looks like 20lbs front 15lbs back is a good place to start. My Cyclone has never flipped but it's not very good ether. It's sweet on asphalt but I just cant seem to be able to make it work for me on the rug, I run MM4600 with a BMI chassis................. Thank you very much for the help
Russ
Russ
Last edited by Lazer Guy; 12-14-2007 at 04:44 PM.