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Old 04-26-2007, 06:47 PM
  #8101  
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the plastic outdrives are machined Acetel(delrin) with machined aluminum retainer clips.they are a more expensive part to make.they are more difficult to make and Acetel is more expensive than aluminum.
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Old 04-26-2007, 07:47 PM
  #8102  
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
i only broke one and it was due to someone hitting my car at the rear tire
Sounds like a hard impact!
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Old 04-26-2007, 07:48 PM
  #8103  
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Originally Posted by F. Alonso
Sounds like a hard impact!
yes it was someone forgot to brake
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Old 04-26-2007, 08:58 PM
  #8104  
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The Cyclone S diff outdrives are about $5.
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Old 04-26-2007, 10:33 PM
  #8105  
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Gday my andy moore cyclone, when i hit a bump it seems to slip diff
for a few seconds untill you back off and turn a bit,cant tell if its fnt or back.got one way in fnt..

then it's like nothing happend.....and i can't find the problem yet if it would just fully break i will find out what it is.but i dont want it to (KODAK) develop..

any suggestions????
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:33 PM
  #8106  
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Try cleaning out and re-oiling your one-way diff. One-way bearings can be quite delicate and only need the smallest bit of grit/dirt on the rollers and it can cause them to slip. Maybe is it just slipping when it takes a lot of stick but under normal driving conditions its ok.
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:13 AM
  #8107  
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Cheers done that and found bad fnt bearing 10 x 15x4mm....
and cleaned out one way....
hope that was it....
Cheers unlesss this has happen to any one else???
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:29 AM
  #8108  
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Originally Posted by dodgeguy
The Cyclone S diff outdrives are about $5.
Yeah they are also a pretty soft plastic relative to the other outdrives.

Probably suitable for stock but id be worried about using it in other classes
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
yes it was someone forgot to brake
I hope it wasnt an XRay driver trying to keep up with you ;P
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Old 04-27-2007, 01:29 PM
  #8110  
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Ya know, with my jumping into belts, posing a question and having you cats talk about like I am invisible, has me ready to barf! Why are Cyclone diffs composite more expensive that the aluminum?
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Old 04-27-2007, 01:31 PM
  #8111  
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Originally Posted by protc3
the plastic outdrives are machined Acetel(delrin) with machined aluminum retainer clips.they are a more expensive part to make.they are more difficult to make and Acetel is more expensive than aluminum.

I think Jason answered you pretty well the other day.
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Old 04-27-2007, 01:34 PM
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And surprisly, delrin seems to last.
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Old 04-27-2007, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Kwikvdub
And surprisly, delrin seems to last.
IMO, the aluminium seems to develop a little play after about 4-6 months of use. The blades seem to be harder then the aluminium. Don't know what material the blades are made from, maybe it's "delrin" . I've had the delrin in since January, and with regard to wear; if it's not better then, it's at least as good as aluminium. I would imagine its lighter and I also think it makes the diff smoother as well.


Has anyone had trouble with wear on the aluminium centre pulleys? I'm assuming that this wear is coming from belt skip/wrap around the pulley because of the size and material of the pulley. I had heard that Tamiya went from a 15t to a 17t pulley to stop there excessive wear they were getting, but don't know for sure. I've just stuck in some 3Racing centre pulleys (and new belts) to see if it actually works/fixes it...
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:20 PM
  #8114  
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Originally Posted by 2-Bad
IMO, the aluminium seems to develop a little play after about 4-6 months of use. The blades seem to be harder then the aluminium. Don't know what material the blades are made from, maybe it's "delrin" . I've had the delrin in since January, and with regard to wear; if it's not better then, it's at least as good as aluminium. I would imagine its lighter and I also think it makes the diff smoother as well.


Has anyone had trouble with wear on the aluminium centre pulleys? I'm assuming that this wear is coming from belt skip/wrap around the pulley because of the size and material of the pulley. I had heard that Tamiya went from a 15t to a 17t pulley to stop there excessive wear they were getting, but don't know for sure. I've just stuck in some 3Racing centre pulleys (and new belts) to see if it actually works/fixes it...
wear did you hear tamiya went from 15 to 17 tooth centre pullys as tamiya have a 16 tooth pully on the 415 415ms 415msx 415msx mre 415msxx and the ta05 to be honest the wear rate of the centre pully on the cyclone is pretty good comparied to the tamiya if your that cocerned the 3 racing pullys are pretty good ive not run one on the cyclone but i had one on the tamiya and they use the same pullys the only iffrence is the holder.
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by stuey
wear did you hear tamiya went from 15 to 17 tooth centre pullys as tamiya have a 16 tooth pully on the 415 415ms 415msx 415msx mre 415msxx and the ta05 to be honest the wear rate of the centre pully on the cyclone is pretty good comparied to the tamiya if your that cocerned the 3 racing pullys are pretty good ive not run one on the cyclone but i had one on the tamiya and they use the same pullys the only iffrence is the holder.
The Clone's pulleys maybe be better then Tamiya as you suggest, but I've never had any wear on pulleys from preivious cars and so this is what got my interest in why it's happening. I guess I'd replace the front belt & pulley once every 4-6 months, which isn't excessive I agree, but if there's another product on the market that means you never had to replace pulleys, well then why not.
Glad to hear your experience with 3Racing pulleys are good, as it should follow on in this case as well.
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