Originally Posted by Skill

I'm not quite sure you understand how you can adjust the tension of the ball diff on the cyclone. In the outdrives there is a small hole, which you line up with the slot on the screw head, and stick a rod of some sort in and you can then adjust the tension. No dismantling needed whatsoever, easy.

Originally Posted by Skill

I'm not quite sure you understand how you can adjust the tension of the ball diff on the cyclone. In the outdrives there is a small hole, which you line up with the slot on the screw head, and stick a rod of some sort in and you can then adjust the tension. No dismantling needed whatsoever, easy.

Originally Posted by John Doucakis

I got confused.
At the beginning of your post you mention that all electronics are opposite to the battery, at the left side of the chassis, same side as the motor as you are using a 6 cell configuration.
This makes perfect sence as with 6 cells the chassis is well balanced having all electronics on the left side (motor side) and the 6 cell pack on its own on the right side.

but
further on, you mention that you placed your receiver at the same place as I did, with the personal AMB in front of the cells.
Is this still with 6 cells or you changed to 5 cells?
If it is with 6 cells, it will be pretty tight to place the receiver on the battery side, as I have used the space of the 6th cell to place the receiver.

I am waiting to see your photos.

Originally Posted by rc-zombies

new tires...
move the rear shocks 1 hole inward.
running the car today and race day will be completely different...
on race day the track is fully prepped and traction is very high...
during the week...SWR track is only blown...no traction sauce is applied... Friday's before race the day...the track is fully prepped for Sat. Racing.

Originally Posted by F. Alonso

Okay, sorry to confuse. On the Motor side of the chassis, I have the Motor, Servo and LRP Sphere Speedy. On the battery side of the car, I have the Spektrum Micro Reciever, and the AMB Transponder. I have found that ever since we have been running with brushless motors, etc, that the weight balance had been shifted to the motor side. So, to combat this (and to get more cooling to the Speed Controller), I have wired my electronics as explained.

Pictures will tell the true story... I will post them as soon as I can (going away this weekend so maybe in a few days). BTW - Love the photos and prep work you do on your cars mate, the best looking chassis going around!

Originally Posted by sidewaysdriver6

point #2 - nothing's "hard" here per se... but see my earlier post above...

point # 3 - iirc there are some cars on the market that allow you to adjust the tension of the diff by just sticking, through a small opening, a hex screwdriver into the diff, without dismantling any part of the chassis... i think the sprint 2's ball diff? not too sure, but the designs that allow for it are there... whether it's a better design/gives better performance i don't know, but it's sure easier to adjust... if the cyclone can have a diff that provides that ease of tuning while keeping the same level of performance or better, why not?

would you prefer to :
a) pick up your car, stick a hex screwdriver and adjust the diff tension, then run your car straight away. diff tension's not right? just repeat.

b) pick up your car, dismantle some parts, adjust the diff tension, re-assemble some parts, then drive your car, and if the tension's not right, repeat these steps again.

EDIT : think i remember better about this now - on the sprint 2's ball diff, iirc you can stick a small shaft or hex screwdriver into one part of the ball diff, and then adjust the tension of the diff by holding the shaft/screwdriver stationary and then turning one of the wheels to tighten/loosen the diff. this can be done without dismantling any parts

point # 4 - yes they are similar, but can they be improved for easier maintenance?

point # 5 - can't argue with that!

point # 6 - see point # 4...

the topic on discussion here is what improvements would you want to see, and not whether the cyclone's features are similar to what's found in other pro cars, because the designs are gonna be similar but that doesn't mean things can't be improved upon...

hope i didn't step on too many toes here... i'll try to go back to lurking mode now

and oh, just like to add, designing a car that is faster/easier to maintain and adjust = more time and fun on the track!

Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO

is this heat sink, fan any good?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNDP3&P=7

in my price range, and if it works i want it, motor runs kinda hot during practice because i drive so long, so a cooler running motor can never hurt lol

or anything in that price? no more then like 40 bucks, but im open to all that is out there

Originally Posted by sidewaysdriver6

btw i know 3racing has some similar designs, you can check them out too :
3racing heatsinks

never used these so can't comment on their performance.

Originally Posted by bxpitbull

Thats what I run. My 3.5 hasnt broke 100 degrees (F).

Originally Posted by Jan Larsen

Forget about the 3racing fans. The blades break one by one very easily. Seen tons of them smashed up here.