Hot Bodies Cyclone
11-01-2006, 01:46 PM
#6001
Without us looking at it i carnt seem to think of anything you may have done wrong,i pressume your bearing holders are both setup correctly? IE both marks in the same position on the bulkhead? The marks facing the back of the car is the losest setting.
It may be a case of just running the car like you said,other than that just give it a real good check over and make sure you havent done anything stupid
Im sure Jason will be able to help you if you still have a problem.
Andy
It may be a case of just running the car like you said,other than that just give it a real good check over and make sure you havent done anything stupid
Im sure Jason will be able to help you if you still have a problem.
Andy
11-01-2006, 02:21 PM
#6002
Originally Posted by Evicerator
with a 4.5 I generally start out around 10:1 then go up from there... Generally I end up at either a 9.75 or a 9.5
Pink spring is about 18 lbs if my memory serves me right.
Pink spring is about 18 lbs if my memory serves me right.
11-01-2006, 02:33 PM
#6003
bxpitbull-- What kind of application are running your car in? Rubber tire outdoor...foam tires on carpet? How big is the track?
FYI that gear ratio is with the sintered rotor...with the standard rotor I generally run lower... closer to a 9.75 or 10.00
The first thing I would do is reset the ESC to make sure that you are getting full throw in brake and reverse...
If you happen to have an M8 I have seen those radios "jump endpoints" a number of times... IE you will set up your ESC with 140/160 end points and mysteriously the transmitter will revert back to 100/100...which will not give you full throttle or full brake!!
FYI that gear ratio is with the sintered rotor...with the standard rotor I generally run lower... closer to a 9.75 or 10.00
The first thing I would do is reset the ESC to make sure that you are getting full throw in brake and reverse...
If you happen to have an M8 I have seen those radios "jump endpoints" a number of times... IE you will set up your ESC with 140/160 end points and mysteriously the transmitter will revert back to 100/100...which will not give you full throttle or full brake!!
Last edited by Steve Weiss; 11-01-2006 at 02:44 PM.
11-01-2006, 03:03 PM
#6004
Sintered on a 4.5? I thought that the 3.5 was sintered and all the others were "normal". In any event, it's an outdoor track, relatively large, free flowing. Ran against nitros in a 10 minute heat and got duffed! My radio is a Spektrum and the gear was taken right out of my Pro 4. Pissed me off so bad, I put it back in the Pro 4 and the car was an absolute rocket. The final drive on the Pro 4 is 9.18 (98/26 64p). Motor after a 15 minute run, never broke 115. With the Cyclone, it was cool that day (NYC) not cold and I am running a 3racing heat sink with a fan on it. 6000mah Li-Po. Oh, the tires are rubber 24mm HPI slicks. Everything on the car is brand new! It originally was a Cyclone S and I hopped it up with extra parts I had in reserve for the Pro 4 or new parts I bought from Horizon (upper and main woven chassis, titanium racing outdrives, hara shocks, blocks, neo stiff springs), belt tensioner, bearings where there were bushings. The car looks damn good and I really thought it was going to be a rocket. If it broke 30, it wouldve been a miracle. HELP?!?!?
11-01-2006, 03:37 PM
#6005
Originally Posted by Johnboy Walton
Hello All,
I'm going to finish my BMI-clone buildup tonight, and I have one observation and one question.
I took what is probably an obsessively long time to prepare the chassis and shock tower edges, just to make sure they nicely polished. It's my first BMI kit and I wanted it to look nice. When I completed the assembly, I noticed what appeared to be a pretty good tweak in the rear of the chassis. I found that, in sealing the chassis, too much CA got on the middle upper chassis plate and it was pushing against the right middle block. Once I sanded the CA off, everything was fine.
My question is, was everyone else's rear belt pretty tight when you put the kit together? This is both my first Cyclone build (virgin black-ano kit built straight onto the BMI conversion), and also my first belt-drive car. The rear belt a little flex in it in some places (if I use the loosest setting), but as I turn the drivetrain over, it comes up almost taught in some places. Will it loosen up after a good run? I've tried carefully stretching it in place on the chassis, and I haven't felt much of a difference. Am I being paranoid, or do genuinely I need to correct this before I put it down on the track on Friday?
Because I REALLY want to see this thing kick butt during its first outing, and I don't want to look like an idiot if I did something stupid!
I'm going to finish my BMI-clone buildup tonight, and I have one observation and one question.
I took what is probably an obsessively long time to prepare the chassis and shock tower edges, just to make sure they nicely polished. It's my first BMI kit and I wanted it to look nice. When I completed the assembly, I noticed what appeared to be a pretty good tweak in the rear of the chassis. I found that, in sealing the chassis, too much CA got on the middle upper chassis plate and it was pushing against the right middle block. Once I sanded the CA off, everything was fine.
My question is, was everyone else's rear belt pretty tight when you put the kit together? This is both my first Cyclone build (virgin black-ano kit built straight onto the BMI conversion), and also my first belt-drive car. The rear belt a little flex in it in some places (if I use the loosest setting), but as I turn the drivetrain over, it comes up almost taught in some places. Will it loosen up after a good run? I've tried carefully stretching it in place on the chassis, and I haven't felt much of a difference. Am I being paranoid, or do genuinely I need to correct this before I put it down on the track on Friday?
Because I REALLY want to see this thing kick butt during its first outing, and I don't want to look like an idiot if I did something stupid!
I noticed that when I converted mine over to the BMI chassis that the rear belt tightened up slightly from the setting I had used before. The BMI kit is great though. I likes mine alot!
Maybe next year I'll try out a BMi asphalt kit when the time comes... Oh, the belt will loosen/break in over time. Just be sure do check what others have said... Make sure both sides (L/R) of your belt tension cams are facing the same direction.
11-01-2006, 04:16 PM
#6006
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
I went and painted the markers on the bearing-carriers for sanity sake, and yes - they are both pointed to the rear of the car. I double-checked them with the calipers to make sure that this really does put the thinnest face towards the center shaft.
KilRuf,
Thanks for allaying my fears. Between the observation that it did tighten with the BMI kit (and mine's 100% fresh), and the fact that they should stretch over time, I feel better. I've just seen the JRX-S pictures where you can see the belt visibly slack on the center-shaft pullies, and I wanted to make sure I was in good shape.
I just finished grinding the front suspension block to clear the steering links, and put the fixed center shaft together (thank you SpeedTech). Now all I have left is to intall the X-Ray hingepins for the rear, build up the 2 diffs I bought (one for the front, one spare), and check everything out against Mr. Stamper's latest carpet setup.
Hopefully Friday won't be disappointing - though if it is, I know this time it's my driving and not the chassis!!
KilRuf,
Thanks for allaying my fears. Between the observation that it did tighten with the BMI kit (and mine's 100% fresh), and the fact that they should stretch over time, I feel better. I've just seen the JRX-S pictures where you can see the belt visibly slack on the center-shaft pullies, and I wanted to make sure I was in good shape.
I just finished grinding the front suspension block to clear the steering links, and put the fixed center shaft together (thank you SpeedTech). Now all I have left is to intall the X-Ray hingepins for the rear, build up the 2 diffs I bought (one for the front, one spare), and check everything out against Mr. Stamper's latest carpet setup.
Hopefully Friday won't be disappointing - though if it is, I know this time it's my driving and not the chassis!!
11-02-2006, 09:31 AM
#6008
Tech Regular
I have had word that the wce is going to be released in japan next week. Not sure how long till it hits the shores of the states?
11-02-2006, 10:10 AM
#6009
Originally Posted by TFR
Thanks andyh!!!
I likes the look of the red one more than the black.
Thanks,
Willz
11-02-2006, 11:53 AM
#6011
cyclone?
What are we talking for price>?pic's?Nick
11-02-2006, 03:20 PM
#6014
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
Nice!!!..
let us know where you got the Tee's..and part #
I want one too...
let us know where you got the Tee's..and part #
I want one too...
