Hot Bodies Cyclone


Old 01-28-2010, 09:01 PM
  #18406  
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Ohhhhhh.... gotcha!

I adjust this when I need a little more forward grip usually. if you move the whole rear hub carrier a little more forward, it tends to give more forward grip. If you move it back, you get a little less. Handling... to me I can't tell much of a difference a lot of times. It's mainly the amount of grip I get in a straight line when hitting the throttle really hard

Hiro might have a better explanation of this though.

-Korey
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Old 01-28-2010, 09:02 PM
  #18407  
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Originally Posted by gixer View Post
Hi guys,

Not too happy with the HB ball studs, a few slight impacts and they just shear off.
I've ordered a set of the 3racing titanium ones so hopefully these are a little better.

Next question is though, what ball cups are best?
Should i just stick with the A302's, or is there anything better out there please?




Cheers
Mark
I like HPI ball cups a lot actually. I've seen others use Yokomo and Lundsford before as well. Not sure exactly which ones people use though.

-Korey
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Old 01-28-2010, 10:20 PM
  #18408  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Be a little more specific and I think I can help you.

First of all, which setup are we referring too?

Second, to figure out what end of the car to work on kind of depends on what the car is doing. If you are looking for more initial steering into the corner, I usually work on the front of the car. If you want more mid-exit steering, I work on the rear of the car.

But like I said, let us know what setup you're running, general track conditions, and I'm sure we can help you out.

-Korey
Ok, sorry for the delayed response. Again, the car had a slight understeer, which I would like to get help with. I would like the car to be a little bit more aggressive on initial turn in. My setup is below. We run on a medium grip asphalt parking lot, which is a little bumpy. We also run foam tires, which is a little different than the norm. Any help would be appreciated.

Front:
Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 70
Piston: HB 1.2mm 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber link Position: 2, with 2mm under the inner mount.
Camber: 2deg
Toe: 0 deg out
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.5 deg
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.0mm front
Swaybar: 1.4mm w/ new style mount, with the screws backed out 2mm
Droop: 5.5mm from the center of the outer hinge pin to the setup board
Ride height: 6mm
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front

Rear:
Spring: Pro 4 Blue
Oil: Losi 70wt
Piston: HB 1.2mm 2 hole
Shock position: 5 on tower, 5 on arm
Camber: 2.5 deg
Camber Link Position: long on bulkhead (1mm under pivot) and short on rear hub (0mm under it).
Toe block: 3 deg
Shims under suspension mounts: 1.5mm all around
Swaybar: 1.2mm on new style mount with screws backed out 3mm.
Droop: 5.5mm measured from the outer hinge pin to the setup board.
Ride Height: 7mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7mm behind it, and 2mm in front of hub, .7mm behind it.

Other:
Front Drive: Spool
Body: Protoform Mazdaspeed 6
Tires: Front 26mm 40 shore foams, Rear 30mm 40 shore foams
Motor: Novak 10.5
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Old 01-28-2010, 10:36 PM
  #18409  
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Try thinner shock oil like 50 wt and 1.1mm 3 hole pistons. That'll make the car more reactive overall. Also... I'm not sure if I typed it wrong or if you changed something, but I never run my rear shock in position #5 on the arm. Run position #3. That'll keep the rear end from rolling so much.

Other than that... maybe try different springs. Since you're running foam tires, there should be a good amount of grip. Maybe try slightly stiffer like gold front and silver rear.

-Korey
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Old 01-28-2010, 10:39 PM
  #18410  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Try thinner shock oil like 50 wt and 1.1mm 3 hole pistons. That'll make the car more reactive overall. Also... I'm not sure if I typed it wrong or if you changed something, but I never run my rear shock in position #5 on the arm. Run position #3. That'll keep the rear end from rolling so much.

Other than that... maybe try different springs. Since you're running foam tires, there should be a good amount of grip. Maybe try slightly stiffer like gold front and silver rear.

-Korey
Thanks Korey, I will give those things a try. I had to go to the #5 position on my rear shock to be able to have clearance for the 30mm wide rear tires.
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Old 01-28-2010, 11:25 PM
  #18411  
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Originally Posted by SpidarX View Post
Thanks Korey, I will give those things a try. I had to go to the #5 position on my rear shock to be able to have clearance for the 30mm wide rear tires.
Can you stand up the rear shocks on the tower and still have room? If not you might just want to go to a stiffer spring in the rear.

-Korey
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Old 01-29-2010, 02:11 AM
  #18412  
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Originally Posted by madwestmo View Post
ah maybe thats why everyone at my club runs sorex 24's .... no additive
get some 32's and be ahead of game!!!!,

I suppose 24 no additive would be similar, but could get to hot, depands on track, carpet set-up, .......I ve never really played with tyres much just try what the fast guys use
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Old 01-29-2010, 03:57 AM
  #18413  
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I have the chance to swap a spare set of me Aluminium Cyclone dampers for a set of Tamiya TRF dampers.

They physically look about the same size, but how do the Tamiya TRF dampers compare i use please?



Cheers
Mark
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Old 01-29-2010, 04:21 AM
  #18414  
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Originally Posted by gixer View Post
I have the chance to swap a spare set of me Aluminium Cyclone dampers for a set of Tamiya TRF dampers.

They physically look about the same size, but how do the Tamiya TRF dampers compare i use please?



Cheers
Mark
They are pretty much the same!! I actually use the 3 hole tamiya pistons in my shocks because i have tamiya ones as well and they are just a copy!!
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:21 AM
  #18415  
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Can anybody (Korey, Hiro ?) tell us anything about Baker's car as far as chassis (Exotek ?), set up, any mod's etc. ?
Is this a spec tire race ?
Thanks.
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:24 AM
  #18416  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Zero rebound . I don't run the bladder foam, and I drilled a small hole in the shock cap to relieve pressure on top of the bladder.

-Korey
korey im having touble finding losi 37.5 oil in the uk , i have some schumacher 35wt and 45wt , which of these should i go for on your setup

thanks again
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Old 01-29-2010, 10:05 AM
  #18417  
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I'd go a bit thicker than what I was running. I'm finding that a bit thicker worked out a bit better overall at more tracks. So try the 45wt

-Korey
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Old 01-29-2010, 10:18 AM
  #18418  
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Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
Can anybody (Korey, Hiro ?) tell us anything about Baker's car as far as chassis (Exotek ?), set up, any mod's etc. ?
Is this a spec tire race ?
Thanks.
I saw a few pictures, it's pretty much a basic car. He's running the front suspension block modification (didn't see which block), std chassis (non exotek), but he is running a TOP battery retainer setup. Its basically a car very similar to what he ran at the KO GP it seems in terms of hardware.

-Korey
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Old 01-29-2010, 12:25 PM
  #18419  
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac View Post
Sounds like you need some TEKIN.
thxs ur right may get one soon lol car a little better today add more timing on motor
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Old 01-30-2010, 04:55 PM
  #18420  
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wow guys!
ETS prostock qualification:
1. Wohlgemuth Daniel (DE) - 310pts (Hot Bodies)
2. Stocker Alexander (DE) - 308pts (Hot Bodies)
4. Rajka Balint (HU) - 304pts (Hot Bodies)

ETS modified qualification:
4. Andy Moore (GB) - 305pts (Hot Bodies / Team Orion)

Not bad!

I'm confident for the Finals on Sunday!
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