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Old 01-13-2010, 11:05 AM
  #18271  
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Originally Posted by JR007
That's great thank, and actually not too far from where i'm set.
With the spacer below the pivot block, do you also have a spacer under the toe block?, or do you run with anti-squat and dive?


Nothing anti squat / dive, sorry I had to say in both pivot suspension.
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Old 01-13-2010, 02:00 PM
  #18272  
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Originally Posted by Matt W
Korey,

Do you know if the main topdeck for the cyclone tc is stiffer than the wce's cos i thought i heard someone say u would hav to cut the tc's to hav the same flex?

Is it mainly for outdoor racing that you cut the topdeck to get more grip or would it also help for indoor racing when the grip is high,

any ideas?
I haven't tried the older top deck before, so I have nothing to compare it to. Talking with Hiro, they are very similar. I doubt I would be able to tell a difference between the two to be honest.

I cut my upper deck because it smoothed the car out a bit, especially in high grip tracks. It does feel like it creates more grip in the middle and exit of the corner to me, so sometimes you might have to make a setup change or two to get the overall effect you are aiming for.

-Korey
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Old 01-13-2010, 02:26 PM
  #18273  
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Thanks for the explanation korey.

Just checking, ive noticed that on the wce that the rear shocks are leant out at the top so they lean back, but on the tc the pivot spacer is turned around and they lean in. I was just wondering if this makes any difference to the feel of the car?
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Old 01-13-2010, 03:37 PM
  #18274  
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Apparently the Xray guys are spacing the shocks quite often to change the behaviour of the car..
I didn't think it'd make that big (or at all..) until i tried it a couple of weeks ago.
Mounting the rear shock closer to the tower creates a bit more steering.
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Old 01-13-2010, 03:58 PM
  #18275  
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Originally Posted by Sparx
Apparently the Xray guys are spacing the shocks quite often to change the behaviour of the car..
I didn't think it'd make that big (or at all..) until i tried it a couple of weeks ago.
Mounting the rear shock closer to the tower creates a bit more steering.
Interesting. When you move it toward the tower. Do you remove only upper shims, making the shock lean forward toward the tower? Or do you remove upper and lower shims, moving the entire shock toward the tower?

I have always shimmed my shocks as straight (perpendicular to chassis) as possible.
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Old 01-13-2010, 06:33 PM
  #18276  
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Originally Posted by Sparx
Apparently the Xray guys are spacing the shocks quite often to change the behaviour of the car..
I didn't think it'd make that big (or at all..) until i tried it a couple of weeks ago.
Mounting the rear shock closer to the tower creates a bit more steering.
That makes sense because it will stand the shock up more. Interesting way to tune, Cyclone owners without the wce style towers can achieve the same effect as moving 1/2 holes by adding spacers.
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Old 01-13-2010, 06:37 PM
  #18277  
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Originally Posted by michael.branth
Hi all,

I ve been using the andy moore iic set-up on carpet but using HB Pink and silver springs ( the nearest to tamiya rates)

After talking to one of the top drivers with a cyclone in suggested to reduce the rear drop and use 35w rear shock oil to stop the car 'hooking' mid corner.

First: would this work

secondly when I took my shocks apart I have 2 hole pistons, but all the set-ups I look at use 3 hole. What and how much differenece would I get using 3 hole over 2?

thanks as all ways

mi
I had this issue of the car mid corner breaking loose. I stiffened the rear of the car to get the grip i needed.

thicker oil or springs

have someone watch your car through the corners , is the inside rear wheel lifting right before the car snaps around?
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:54 PM
  #18278  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
I haven't tried the older top deck before, so I have nothing to compare it to. Talking with Hiro, they are very similar. I doubt I would be able to tell a difference between the two to be honest.

I cut my upper deck because it smoothed the car out a bit, especially in high grip tracks. It does feel like it creates more grip in the middle and exit of the corner to me, so sometimes you might have to make a setup change or two to get the overall effect you are aiming for.

-Korey
I do believe the wce upper deck has more flex then the Tc version. also i did find a difference (be it small) in lap time on a test i did on our local large tarmac track. I also used a cut wce topdeck once and the car was slower and felt very lazy.

but what we are tuning here is actually a bit strange to me. creating more torsional flex (by cutting the topdeck) disconnects the front and rear roll stiffness more.
normally (if the chassis was infinitely stiff) the front and rear roll stiffness would form a balance point we can tune to. now if this balance would be way off your car would not handle well of course. by allowing more flex we disconnect this balance allowing the roll stiffness balance to be off the optimum.
Now would a car be faster with optimal roll stiffness balance and a connected front and rear roll stiffness
OR
are there cases where the roll stiffness needs to be wrong so the only way to get it to work would be to disconnect the effect by allowing flex?
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Old 01-14-2010, 12:38 AM
  #18279  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
I haven't tried the older top deck before, so I have nothing to compare it to. Talking with Hiro, they are very similar. I doubt I would be able to tell a difference between the two to be honest.

I cut my upper deck because it smoothed the car out a bit, especially in high grip tracks. It does feel like it creates more grip in the middle and exit of the corner to me, so sometimes you might have to make a setup change or two to get the overall effect you are aiming for.

-Korey
well i actually run the original black cyclone top deck but i cut it through the middle as well as i preferred the stiff feeling more. befor i cut it the car had a tad off understeer at speed on low grip tracks and after cutting it is really nice now. i always run it over the tc deck and i have a cut one as well. plus i cut the rear alloy mid deck so it is stiff front to back but flexes a little side to side. And i get the added benefits of extra motor cooling. I really like this setup whenever i change it sometimes the car feels better but it is slow. I also run slightly lower roll centres only .5mm to 1mm under toe blocks all round.
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Old 01-14-2010, 01:31 AM
  #18280  
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Originally Posted by Sparx
Apparently the Xray guys are spacing the shocks quite often to change the behaviour of the car..
I didn't think it'd make that big (or at all..) until i tried it a couple of weeks ago.
Mounting the rear shock closer to the tower creates a bit more steering.
I think that shift the burden of the shock affects the center of gravity will move back spot behind the C of G (decreases the power steering), rewinding the scrap, the C of G increases the steering, as I said Tommy.
The same (reversed) for the front shock absorbers.
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:06 AM
  #18281  
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Purple LED Pit Light arrived !
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-mm-mr-ledp.jpg  
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Old 01-15-2010, 10:41 AM
  #18282  
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Hi guys!
Exotek conversion, requires special set-ups to make better?
Requires a set-up more different from the original TC?
thanks
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Old 01-17-2010, 10:42 AM
  #18283  
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Default VTA set up

Anyone got a good starting set up for vta with a cyclone running lipo/21.5 on a small med/high grip carpet?
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Old 01-17-2010, 05:04 PM
  #18284  
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Originally Posted by Gwoodrc
Anyone got a good starting set up for vta with a cyclone running lipo/21.5 on a small med/high grip carpet?
I'm looking for the same thing. I have a S that I put the TC chassis on. Running the S top deck.
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Old 01-17-2010, 10:27 PM
  #18285  
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Has anyone ever used 30mm rear tires on their cyclone tc before?
Where I run, we use nitro foam tires on asphalt. The rear wheels are 30mm wide, but I'm having clearance issues when running the 30mm wheels. The wheel rubs on the camber link ball stud. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
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