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Old 01-12-2010, 05:07 AM   #18256
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Default tc topdeck

Hey,

Does anyone know if the main topdeck for the cyclone tc is stiffer than the wce's cos i thought i heard someone say u would hav to cut the tc's to hav the same flex?

Is it mainly for outdoor racing that you cut the topdeck to get more flex or would it also help for indoor racing when the grip is high,

any ideas?
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Old 01-12-2010, 05:48 AM   #18257
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Both me and Stocker ran cut top decks at DHI, i used the stock FRP reardeck.
I also replaced the screw that goes in the steering bellcrank with a set screw to get even more flex.
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:14 AM   #18258
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To all cyclone S bro's,

I'm from malaysia also using this chassis as drift machine. Wanna ask if any person here have any oppinion on the best settings for dirfting for this chassis?. Any body know if there are any cyclone S have a counter steer axle and pulley system that are made for CS? Like Yokomo have.
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:10 AM   #18259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparx View Post
Both me and Stocker ran cut top decks at DHI, i used the stock FRP reardeck.
I also replaced the screw that goes in the steering bellcrank with a set screw to get even more flex.

Just wondering what was the grip like at the DHI ? I read that the carpet was new for this event. I run on carpet and I'm really not sure if I should cut the top deck (I only have the one). Our grip is low to medium, depending on temperature and how many weeks we have on it.
What conditions make you run a cut top deck ? (and a cut rear deck)
Thanks.
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:27 AM   #18260
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The grip was very high, there was some traction roll but the LRP CPX tires worked very well, much better than the Xenon tires that flips the car as soon as you look at the steering wheel, on the same carpet..

I'd cut the rear deck if i needed more rear grip and the traction was a bit lower.
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Old 01-12-2010, 10:58 AM   #18261
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Originally Posted by billythekid View Post
Hi Korey, you might want to tell HB about that, so they won't go ahead to produce it.

It might also be a 3D cut, with a thin weight plate.
They know already . It's for sure not a 3D cut.

-Korey
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Old 01-12-2010, 04:45 PM   #18262
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Default Help with outdoor Surikarn set-up

I posted a few days back for a starting outdoor set-up but got no response. Any help?
It is a very large asphalt track (back straight about 60m) and I am running Foam, 13.5 Tekin with Lipo.
We have a big meet coming up, and I don't have much tim to get down for practice so i'm keen to get a starting set-up.
One thing I have noticed since i've been running foam is that my rear tyres are coning a lot, fronts are fine.
Set-up is along the lines of:
FRONT
Gold springs, 50wt, std piston
top middle shock
bottom middle shock
1 degree toe block
1 degree toe-out
3 degree camber
Silver sway bar
Spool
REAR
Pinksprings, 50wt, std piston
top middle/inside shock
bottom middle shock
3 degree toe block
2 degree camber
no sway bar
pro diff

I'm pretty green on TC racing, so any help would be great
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Old 01-12-2010, 05:09 PM   #18263
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Thats a tough one. I have ZERO experience with foam tire asphalt racing. If you're tries are coning a lot, usually we just run a little more camber to counteract that. If it's still coning a lot, maybe run fewer shims on the camber link so there is more camber when the suspension is compressed.

I know on carpet with foam tires, I usually run more camber than normal. I usually ran about 3 deg in the back, and 2 deg up front.

-Korey
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Old 01-12-2010, 05:12 PM   #18264
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Korey,
Ackerman has been talked about alot but if you build the TC to the kit setup you end up with the steering links angled forward. I think this is because of the new symmetrical arm design which moves the c hub forward.
What effect does a forward angle on the steering links have on the car ?
Thanks.
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Old 01-12-2010, 05:15 PM   #18265
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It doesn't really matter so much about swept forward or back... it's more the angle in general.

The more the links are swept (fewer shims in our case like... 2mm), the smoother your initial steering will be. You'll usually get a little more mid-exit as well.

The straighter they are (more shims like... 4mm), I've found it to make the car more reactive and edgy around center, but not as much steering through the middle and exit of the corner.

-Korey
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Old 01-12-2010, 05:53 PM   #18266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Thats a tough one. I have ZERO experience with foam tire asphalt racing. If you're tries are coning a lot, usually we just run a little more camber to counteract that. If it's still coning a lot, maybe run fewer shims on the camber link so there is more camber when the suspension is compressed.

I know on carpet with foam tires, I usually run more camber than normal. I usually ran about 3 deg in the back, and 2 deg up front.

-Korey
That's great thanks Korey. I am still usnure about foams, but have 5 full new seats and afew older sets, so figured I might as well try and get the hang of it. We have big air temp differences down here, and the track temps vary heaps through the day, so guys change their rubber 2 or 3 times a day for difference compounds. I'm hoping foams will get rid of that!
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:16 PM   #18267
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Default Cut top and rear deck

I run on a small tight (75x35) carpet track with med to high grip, I have a lipo topdeck on it and didn't want to cut it unless it would help and i don't have any clue as whether or not to cut the rear, but my car has VERYAGRESSIVE sreering and I have tried many setups and let other local top drivers try to tune on it and we cannot call down the steering. If I could calm down the initial turnin then I can live with the rest, but its so aggressive i'm scared to turn the wheel! And I have tried turning the speed and expo way down on the radio. It is a wce cyclone with FRP middeck and lipo topdeck running 17.5 with jaco blues. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:41 PM   #18268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwoodrc View Post
I run on a small tight (75x35) carpet track with med to high grip, I have a lipo topdeck on it and didn't want to cut it unless it would help and i don't have any clue as whether or not to cut the rear, but my car has VERYAGRESSIVE sreering and I have tried many setups and let other local top drivers try to tune on it and we cannot call down the steering. If I could calm down the initial turnin then I can live with the rest, but its so aggressive i'm scared to turn the wheel! And I have tried turning the speed and expo way down on the radio. It is a wce cyclone with FRP middeck and lipo topdeck running 17.5 with jaco blues. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
i usually find that if i have to much initial i change the front toe block from 2.5 to 1.5 or even 1!! it gives more mid steer i find and less initial which the cyclone sometimes has to much of.
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:48 PM   #18269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JR007 View Post
I posted a few days back for a starting outdoor set-up but got no response. Any help?
It is a very large asphalt track (back straight about 60m) and I am running Foam, 13.5 Tekin with Lipo.
We have a big meet coming up, and I don't have much tim to get down for practice so i'm keen to get a starting set-up.
One thing I have noticed since i've been running foam is that my rear tyres are coning a lot, fronts are fine.
Set-up is along the lines of:
FRONT
Gold springs, 50wt, std piston
top middle shock
bottom middle shock
1 degree toe block
1 degree toe-out
3 degree camber
Silver sway bar
Spool
REAR
Pinksprings, 50wt, std piston
top middle/inside shock
bottom middle shock
3 degree toe block
2 degree camber
no sway bar
pro diff

I'm pretty green on TC racing, so any help would be great
i can't give an exact but i find that stiffening the car will be the way to go for foam which means moving the shocks on the bottom to the outside, raising the roll centres, shortening the camber links, stiffening the sway bars, and going heavier in shock oil. with foam you have to think in terms of grip. the foam tyre has plenty of grip so if your rear end is loose you may want to lengthen your rear link or something that will give the rear end grip!! Also stiffer top and middle decks will work better to!! but try these one by one and learn what the car does as you go!! it will make you faster in the long run!! hope all this helps.
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:52 PM   #18270
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Originally Posted by decibels View Post
i usually find that if i have to much initial i change the front toe block from 2.5 to 1.5 or even 1!! it gives more mid steer i find and less initial which the cyclone sometimes has to much of.
I have 1.5 in it now, tried 1 and zero and went back to 1.5. But it seemed that the toe locks only changed though the corner steering and not initial turnin. Also went to 2 degree chubs and seemed to calm it down and legthened the front sway bar links and that helped alot, but it is still darty.
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