Hot Bodies Cyclone
01-12-2010, 04:09 PM
Thats a tough one. I have ZERO experience with foam tire asphalt racing. If you're tries are coning a lot, usually we just run a little more camber to counteract that. If it's still coning a lot, maybe run fewer shims on the camber link so there is more camber when the suspension is compressed.
I know on carpet with foam tires, I usually run more camber than normal. I usually ran about 3 deg in the back, and 2 deg up front.
-Korey
I know on carpet with foam tires, I usually run more camber than normal. I usually ran about 3 deg in the back, and 2 deg up front.
-Korey
01-12-2010, 04:12 PM
Korey,
Ackerman has been talked about alot but if you build the TC to the kit setup you end up with the steering links angled forward. I think this is because of the new symmetrical arm design which moves the c hub forward.
What effect does a forward angle on the steering links have on the car ?
Thanks.
Ackerman has been talked about alot but if you build the TC to the kit setup you end up with the steering links angled forward. I think this is because of the new symmetrical arm design which moves the c hub forward.
What effect does a forward angle on the steering links have on the car ?
Thanks.
01-12-2010, 04:15 PM
It doesn't really matter so much about swept forward or back... it's more the angle in general.
The more the links are swept (fewer shims in our case like... 2mm), the smoother your initial steering will be. You'll usually get a little more mid-exit as well.
The straighter they are (more shims like... 4mm), I've found it to make the car more reactive and edgy around center, but not as much steering through the middle and exit of the corner.
-Korey
The more the links are swept (fewer shims in our case like... 2mm), the smoother your initial steering will be. You'll usually get a little more mid-exit as well.
The straighter they are (more shims like... 4mm), I've found it to make the car more reactive and edgy around center, but not as much steering through the middle and exit of the corner.
-Korey
01-12-2010, 04:53 PM
Tech Master
Thats a tough one. I have ZERO experience with foam tire asphalt racing. If you're tries are coning a lot, usually we just run a little more camber to counteract that. If it's still coning a lot, maybe run fewer shims on the camber link so there is more camber when the suspension is compressed.
I know on carpet with foam tires, I usually run more camber than normal. I usually ran about 3 deg in the back, and 2 deg up front.
-Korey
I know on carpet with foam tires, I usually run more camber than normal. I usually ran about 3 deg in the back, and 2 deg up front.
-Korey
01-12-2010, 08:16 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (66)
Cut top and rear deck
I run on a small tight (75x35) carpet track with med to high grip, I have a lipo topdeck on it and didn't want to cut it unless it would help and i don't have any clue as whether or not to cut the rear, but my car has VERYAGRESSIVE sreering and I have tried many setups and let other local top drivers try to tune on it and we cannot call down the steering. If I could calm down the initial turnin then I can live with the rest, but its so aggressive i'm scared to turn the wheel! And I have tried turning the speed and expo way down on the radio. It is a wce cyclone with FRP middeck and lipo topdeck running 17.5 with jaco blues. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
01-12-2010, 08:41 PM
I run on a small tight (75x35) carpet track with med to high grip, I have a lipo topdeck on it and didn't want to cut it unless it would help and i don't have any clue as whether or not to cut the rear, but my car has VERYAGRESSIVE sreering and I have tried many setups and let other local top drivers try to tune on it and we cannot call down the steering. If I could calm down the initial turnin then I can live with the rest, but its so aggressive i'm scared to turn the wheel! And I have tried turning the speed and expo way down on the radio. It is a wce cyclone with FRP middeck and lipo topdeck running 17.5 with jaco blues. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
01-12-2010, 08:48 PM
I posted a few days back for a starting outdoor set-up but got no response. Any help?
It is a very large asphalt track (back straight about 60m) and I am running Foam, 13.5 Tekin with Lipo.
We have a big meet coming up, and I don't have much tim to get down for practice so i'm keen to get a starting set-up.
One thing I have noticed since i've been running foam is that my rear tyres are coning a lot, fronts are fine.
Set-up is along the lines of:
FRONT
Gold springs, 50wt, std piston
top middle shock
bottom middle shock
1 degree toe block
1 degree toe-out
3 degree camber
Silver sway bar
Spool
REAR
Pinksprings, 50wt, std piston
top middle/inside shock
bottom middle shock
3 degree toe block
2 degree camber
no sway bar
pro diff
I'm pretty green on TC racing, so any help would be great
It is a very large asphalt track (back straight about 60m) and I am running Foam, 13.5 Tekin with Lipo.
We have a big meet coming up, and I don't have much tim to get down for practice so i'm keen to get a starting set-up.
One thing I have noticed since i've been running foam is that my rear tyres are coning a lot, fronts are fine.
Set-up is along the lines of:
FRONT
Gold springs, 50wt, std piston
top middle shock
bottom middle shock
1 degree toe block
1 degree toe-out
3 degree camber
Silver sway bar
Spool
REAR
Pinksprings, 50wt, std piston
top middle/inside shock
bottom middle shock
3 degree toe block
2 degree camber
no sway bar
pro diff
I'm pretty green on TC racing, so any help would be great
01-12-2010, 08:52 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (66)
I have 1.5 in it now, tried 1 and zero and went back to 1.5. But it seemed that the toe locks only changed though the corner steering and not initial turnin. Also went to 2 degree chubs and seemed to calm it down and legthened the front sway bar links and that helped alot, but it is still darty.
01-12-2010, 10:03 PM
Tech Master
i can't give an exact but i find that stiffening the car will be the way to go for foam which means moving the shocks on the bottom to the outside, raising the roll centres, shortening the camber links, stiffening the sway bars, and going heavier in shock oil. with foam you have to think in terms of grip. the foam tyre has plenty of grip so if your rear end is loose you may want to lengthen your rear link or something that will give the rear end grip!! Also stiffer top and middle decks will work better to!! but try these one by one and learn what the car does as you go!! it will make you faster in the long run!! hope all this helps.
01-12-2010, 10:04 PM
I have 1.5 in it now, tried 1 and zero and went back to 1.5. But it seemed that the toe locks only changed though the corner steering and not initial turnin. Also went to 2 degree chubs and seemed to calm it down and legthened the front sway bar links and that helped alot, but it is still darty.
01-12-2010, 10:21 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (66)
Like Korey mentioned, you could try to use 2mm spacers for the ackerman. Another thing you can try is raise up the front camber links with 3mm spacers to reduce the camber change when the front dive in to the corner, it will help reduce the initial turn in. Hope these help too.
01-13-2010, 02:35 AM
Front
Spring Xray 30lb Light purple
Oil 50wt
Piston 2 Hole 1.2mm
Sway Bar 1.6mm
Camber link shim 2mm
1mm below the pivot suspension
0 ° pivot toe
Rear
Spring 17.5lb Xray white
Oil 30wt
Piston 2 Hole 1.2mm
No sway bar
0mm Camber link
1mm below the pivot suspension
3 ° pivot toe
Tire
Front and rear 37shore
Important!
Min.57mm tire diameter, maximum 60 mm
01-13-2010, 03:10 AM
Tech Adept
Korey,
Do you know if the main topdeck for the cyclone tc is stiffer than the wce's cos i thought i heard someone say u would hav to cut the tc's to hav the same flex?
Is it mainly for outdoor racing that you cut the topdeck to get more grip or would it also help for indoor racing when the grip is high,
any ideas?
Do you know if the main topdeck for the cyclone tc is stiffer than the wce's cos i thought i heard someone say u would hav to cut the tc's to hav the same flex?
Is it mainly for outdoor racing that you cut the topdeck to get more grip or would it also help for indoor racing when the grip is high,
any ideas?
01-13-2010, 08:35 AM
Tech Adept
piston holes:
Hi all,
I ve been using the andy moore iic set-up on carpet but using HB Pink and silver springs ( the nearest to tamiya rates)
After talking to one of the top drivers with a cyclone in suggested to reduce the rear drop and use 35w rear shock oil to stop the car 'hooking' mid corner.
First: would this work
secondly when I took my shocks apart I have 2 hole pistons, but all the set-ups I look at use 3 hole. What and how much differenece would I get using 3 hole over 2?
thanks as all ways
mi
I ve been using the andy moore iic set-up on carpet but using HB Pink and silver springs ( the nearest to tamiya rates)
After talking to one of the top drivers with a cyclone in suggested to reduce the rear drop and use 35w rear shock oil to stop the car 'hooking' mid corner.
First: would this work
secondly when I took my shocks apart I have 2 hole pistons, but all the set-ups I look at use 3 hole. What and how much differenece would I get using 3 hole over 2?
thanks as all ways
mi
01-13-2010, 10:26 AM
Tech Master
If you are interested ... I have used with good results in category 17.5 foam asphalt fol setup:
Front
Spring Xray 30lb Light purple
Oil 50wt
Piston 2 Hole 1.2mm
Sway Bar 1.6mm
Camber link shim 2mm
1mm below the pivot suspension
0 ° pivot toe
Rear
Spring 17.5lb Xray white
Oil 30wt
Piston 2 Hole 1.2mm
No sway bar
0mm Camber link
1mm below the pivot suspension
3 ° pivot toe
Tire
Front and rear 37shore
Important!
Min.57mm tire diameter, maximum 60 mm
Front
Spring Xray 30lb Light purple
Oil 50wt
Piston 2 Hole 1.2mm
Sway Bar 1.6mm
Camber link shim 2mm
1mm below the pivot suspension
0 ° pivot toe
Rear
Spring 17.5lb Xray white
Oil 30wt
Piston 2 Hole 1.2mm
No sway bar
0mm Camber link
1mm below the pivot suspension
3 ° pivot toe
Tire
Front and rear 37shore
Important!
Min.57mm tire diameter, maximum 60 mm
With the spacer below the pivot block, do you also have a spacer under the toe block?, or do you run with anti-squat and dive?