RCFREAK

iTrader: (20)

cycloneX...K Bojar was at one of our local races last season.... i think that was where i actually met him.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

See... I dont have any problems because I'm running the really cool Ko Propo 2.4ghz stuff. I love my new Mars UR!

-Korey

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

I've been down Mimi's a handful of times or so..

I was down for the USVTA race last october - ran VTA and 12th scale

I've been down for a couple of the 'bigger' ROAR races Mimi's has done...Really wish you were closer (or I didn't have a family ) cause I'd be down more often

cyclone x

iTrader: (3)

oh i see ok thats cool so we have raced before

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

yup - at least once

ASM

iTrader: (30)

This is a two part post....lol. I see lots of lipo mounting questions and options so I thought I'd share mine which is using the brass plate from Stormer. It didn't fit like it should have and it took some dremel work and some mill work on the plate but the result was well worth it.

The second part is, I'm looking for set-ups on VERY high bite asphalt that's really coming from the tire. We're using a spec tire so there's no way around that. I'm considering putting the aluminum rear bulkhead brace back on the car. I've gotta get this thing freed up......

1101

Hi there. Do the cyclones have any issues sucking up grit & stones ??

The local track has a few small stones & grit that caused havock on TA05's pinion/spur (most other cars are OK there, just a TA05 issue)

I just want to make sure cyclones arnt a vacuum cleaner as my ex TA's were before I buy one.
cheers

decibels

iTrader: (3)

more open is more initial steering more corner speed but a bit less mid steer.
less open equal less initial, more mid steer and car will tend to slow a bit more in the middle of the corner as well!!

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Generally, I've found more arm sweep (bigger toe block up front) will give slightly less intial steering, but more steering at the apex, and exiting the turn. Less arm sweep (smaller toe block), will make the car more reactive, and have more initial response. The drawback is it will have less steering at the apex of the corner.

Now, some people have disagreed with me on this. I think a lot of it has to do how hard you actually go into the corner. The more the suspension is loaded, the more effect the arm sweep has it seems. So for modified when standing on the brakes, more arm sweep can make it feel like it has more intial steering like what decibles has explained. In spec racing when you are not on the brakes so much, it does how I have explained it previously. I've found it works like how I have explained more often though. It's definently worth a try though. See how it works for you, because the results can differ depending on driving style and the rest of your setup.

Hope that helps!

-Korey

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

Korey,

(1) A while back you provided some info on arm sweep.

(2) When I set my TC up (using a modified Hara setup), I had to use a 1.5 degree pivot block on the front, and a 2.5 degree pivot block on the back (due to lack of ingredients at the time).

(3) I now have another 1.5 degree pivot block and would like to know what affect it will have on the car if I change the REAR 2.5 deg block, to a 1.5 deg block ?
Acknowledging that the whole rear suspension is swept, and not just the rear hub (which adjusts the rear toe effect).

(4) For completeness, the changes I made from the Hara RROC setup are as follows:
-- more rear roll (rear shock sus arm position > Hara=2, Mine=3 )
-- more damping in front shocks (oil adjustment > Hara=30, Mine=40)
-- less progressive effect on front swaybar (gap adjustment > Hara=2.5, Mine=1.0)
-- more weight over rear (shifting rear arms via hub shims > Hara=1.0+0.7, Mine=0.75+2.0)
-- bit lower rear RC (top shims adjustment > Hara=1.0, Mine=2.0) ** needed this to plant rear end at the track **
-- front arm sweep (pivot block > Hara=1.0, Mine=1.5)
-- rear arm sweep (pivot block > Hara=1.5, Mine=2.5)
-- less rear end flex (middle deck state > Hara=cut, Mine=solid)

Thanks in advance

tomracing

actually you are misreading a few items on the setup sheet.
but actually i like his titc setup better as a starting point
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/hotb...TC20090222.pdf
except for the ackerman and shock oil

and finally you have to remember the rear block controls the rear toe-angle which i think will be a governing effect over arm sweep.

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

(1) Thanks, I've double checked and incorporated the corrections:
-- more rear roll (rear shock sus arm position > Hara=2, Mine=3 )
-- less damping in rear shocks (oil adjustment > Hara=40, Mine=30)
-- less progressive effect on front swaybar (gap adjustment > Hara=2.5, Mine=1.0)
-- more weight over rear (shifting rear arms via hub shims > Hara=1.0+0.7, Mine=0.75+2.0)
-- bit lower rear RC (top shims adjustment > Hara=1.0, Mine=2.0)
-- front arm sweep (pivot block > Hara=1.0, Mine=1.5)
-- rear arm sweep (pivot block > Hara=3.0, Mine=2.5)
-- less rear end flex (middle deck state > Hara=cut, Mine=solid)

(2) Based on the corrections, my original question is now a bit mute.

(3) The setup I am currently using has turned out significantly better than the kit setup.
I'll check out the link, and do some analysis / comparisons.

Thanks

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Well, you will feel more the rear toe change than the "sweep" in the rear arms. But, since HB has released 1 deg aluminum rear hubs, you can actually play with this balance. Less rear toe just usually frees the back end up overall. More will usually create more rear grip, and allow the car to turn in a bit crisper too. The information I have provided for arm sweep is mainly just talking about the front end of the car. But I will elaborate on what it can do for you in the rear, since we now have 1 deg rear hubs available.

Currently, most on the Cyclone run all inboard rear toe in. This is adjusted through the suspension block. If I have a 0 deg outer hub, and 3 deg of toe at the block, thats 3 deg of inboard toe, and 0 deg outboard. This gives the maximum amount of forward grip comming out of a corner, and allows he car to turn in a little quicker entering the corner as well.

Now, if we use the 1 deg hubs we now have 1 deg of outboard toe in. So lets say we want 3 deg of total toe in for comparison to the previous situation I have explained. You will need to run a 2 deg rear toe block, and 1 deg outer hub. This gives you a total of 3 deg of toe in still, but it's just distributed between the inside and outside. Generally, this setup will give slightly smoother turn in, and more on power steering through the middle and exit of the corner. I like to use this kind of setup on REALLY high bite tracks (foam tires on carpet typically) since it smooths the car out a bit, and helps the rear end rotate a little more without it feeling unstable. You do loose forward grip though, so in some situations when the grip isn't high enough it can be a disadvantage.

-Korey

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

(1) Current track is considered low to medium grip.
(2) However, a new refurbished track, which will be opening in about a month or two, has applied a special paint to the surface. It will generate LOTS of grip (at least initially) until the track beds in (based on others experience with the same paint). So the tip may be useful even with rubbers on asphalt ...

Thanks

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

Is there any advantage in running an aluminium rear hub carrier (such as the 3R-CY-23-PU) over the kit hub carrier (ignoring the bling factor)?

Thanks in advance