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Old 05-02-2009, 05:03 PM   #16111
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nice
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Old 05-02-2009, 05:38 PM   #16112
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Originally Posted by GasGod View Post
It affects arm sweep-
doesn't it also change wheel base?
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Old 05-02-2009, 06:55 PM   #16113
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Sorry guys, looks like I missed that post.

Arm sweep is pretty useful, but it changes a few things all at once. It changes the angle of the inner hinge pins in relation to the center line of the chassis (kinda like this: \ /) , and as a result it shortens the wheelbase, and changes the steering geometry as well. If you want to isolate all the other changes it does, you'll have to change your ackerman and wheelbase accordingly. To be perfectly honest, I never do that...

If you weren't going to change anything else but the front toe block it would do as follows: Adding arm sweep will make the car enter the corner a tiny bit smoother, and create a noticeable increase in steering at the apex/middle of the corner. When you take arm sweep out, it makes the car turn in a little bit crisper, but have less steering in the middle of the corner.

Hope that's a better explanation than what you have received in the past.

-Korey
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Old 05-02-2009, 09:17 PM   #16114
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Did you get a Cyclone? Finally got rid of the TC5????
Yup you got it. I got tired of the one run inconsistency. Rumor has it you may change
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Old 05-02-2009, 09:20 PM   #16115
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Not really.If it doesn't affect handling,I don't worry about something minor like that.I know its about the bling factor for some and the car needs to look perfect.To each their own.Just hoping he will keep his negativity out of this thread.
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you wouldn't be upset about scratched anodized parts in your new kit?
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Old 05-02-2009, 09:21 PM   #16116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Sorry guys, looks like I missed that post.

Arm sweep is pretty useful, but it changes a few things all at once. It changes the angle of the inner hinge pins in relation to the center line of the chassis (kinda like this: \ /) , and as a result it shortens the wheelbase, and changes the steering geometry as well. If you want to isolate all the other changes it does, you'll have to change your ackerman and wheelbase accordingly. To be perfectly honest, I never do that...

If you weren't going to change anything else but the front toe block it would do as follows: Adding arm sweep will make the car enter the corner a tiny bit smoother, and create a noticeable increase in steering at the apex/middle of the corner. When you take arm sweep out, it makes the car turn in a little bit crisper, but have less steering in the middle of the corner.

Hope that's a better explanation than what you have received in the past.

-Korey
Ahhh Arm sweep, I get it thanks Korey....
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Old 05-03-2009, 06:57 AM   #16117
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Has anyone ever run a solid axle both front and rear on their cyclone???

I just purchased two to try this... I know it will push into the corner but I'm willing to give it a try lol.
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:20 AM   #16118
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Yup you got it. I got tired of the one run inconsistency. Rumor has it you may change
I'm keeping the Tamiya for the Reedy and we'll see what happens from there. I'm just in it for the fun these days. Club racing will be fun this season. Just remember that the King of the straight is back. No more running you know what
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:44 AM   #16119
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Originally Posted by illz302 View Post
Has anyone ever run a solid axle both front and rear on their cyclone???

I just purchased two to try this... I know it will push into the corner but I'm willing to give it a try lol.

I tried that in onroad nitro .12 racing, on not so technical ad high speed track I loved it
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Old 05-03-2009, 11:15 AM   #16120
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Hiya

First post here so be gentle

I have ran brushed for a long time now and ive decided on going brushless with my cyclone TC , i decided to go for 13.5t speed passion combo , but im not quite sure how to gear it at the moment

The tracks i run are a small indoor carpet track and a slightly larger outdoor asphalt track , currently i only have a 84t spur and 23t pinion with all the standard pulleys , i want to get some new gears but dont want to end up buying all the wrong ones , so im after a rough guide as to what range of spur/pinions i should get...

Also i do have the brushless motor mounts if that makes any difference

oh and also both carpet and outdoor tracks i run rubber and 7.4v 5000 lipo

Thanks for any help/advice its really appriecated because i am lost

Mark
Well i have got the speed passion 13.5 combo , i decided to get a 78t spur/36t Pinion and are 48DP , it works out at 4.68 FDR....

I ran my car for between 5-10mins and i checked the temp , i have no thermometer so i just touched it with my thumb , i cud only hold it on there 2-3 secs , it seems to run too hot or is it just me ?? , i even turned the motor timing down to the lowest and is still very hot , also i have got the over heat protection setting 'on' on my speed control but this didnt kick in

am i worrying about nothing ??
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Old 05-03-2009, 02:56 PM   #16121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
I tried that in onroad nitro .12 racing, on not so technical ad high speed track I loved it
Cool thanks for the info everyone at my local HS told me no way would it be driveable but honestly when I bought my very first TC and got into this sport I had purchased a Redcat Lightning and all they told me was it will never be competitive . Shows how much they know i finished 3rd in my first race ever LOL.
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:13 PM   #16122
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I am letting you guys know I am getting rid of my worlds edition. It comes with a PPD tweak plate aluminum steering knuckles(3 racing) extra belts all the pulleys and center-one way etc any questions I will post pics in the FS thread later just seeing if it draws interest here.

thanks
Chris
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:50 PM   #16123
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Well

Finally tested my fully upgraded cyclone "S" at the track over re layout that will be used on next race may 17th. I'm using 18t center pulley/one way.

I used maxamps 4.700mah nimh batts and novak ss pro 13.5 brushless motor on novak gtb speed. As it's not illegal to use 13mm rotor here and many people use it, I decide to install it. After various tests starting on 4.67 fdr on 8 minutes racing pace rounds, I ended using 68t spur and 36t pinion and 55 degrees Celsius speed temperature on 4.09 fdr for me seems too much but the car feels great and the temps are good what you think ?

BTW, im upgrading my whole chassis buying the 3Racing graphite chassis for cyclone sport + front graphite tower for cyclone sport + rear graphite tower for cyclone sport but i cant find in stock the upper deck for cyclone sport so ... its impossible to fit the normal upper deck carbon fibre on the cyclone S chassis ?


Thanks
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Last edited by Tabushi; 05-03-2009 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 05-04-2009, 03:22 AM   #16124
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Originally Posted by madwestmo View Post
Well i have got the speed passion 13.5 combo , i decided to get a 78t spur/36t Pinion and are 48DP , it works out at 4.68 FDR....

I ran my car for between 5-10mins and i checked the temp , i have no thermometer so i just touched it with my thumb , i cud only hold it on there 2-3 secs , it seems to run too hot or is it just me ?? , i even turned the motor timing down to the lowest and is still very hot , also i have got the over heat protection setting 'on' on my speed control but this didnt kick in

am i worrying about nothing ??
anyone ?
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Old 05-04-2009, 05:41 AM   #16125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madwestmo View Post
Well i have got the speed passion 13.5 combo , i decided to get a 78t spur/36t Pinion and are 48DP , it works out at 4.68 FDR....

I ran my car for between 5-10mins and i checked the temp , i have no thermometer so i just touched it with my thumb , i cud only hold it on there 2-3 secs , it seems to run too hot or is it just me ?? , i even turned the motor timing down to the lowest and is still very hot , also i have got the over heat protection setting 'on' on my speed control but this didnt kick in

am i worrying about nothing ??
Well are you running foam or rubber? if you are running rubber then you are probably to high!! this is where roll outs are better. To work out rollout you multiply your tire diameter by pie (3.14) and divide this by your fdr. this will give you a roll out. so most rubber tyres are 64mm so you would be running a 42.7 mil rollout which would suit a very large track. if this is the case then drop 3 teeth off your pinion which will bring you just under 40mm and turn your timing back up to full and see how that goes!! if you want more info p.m me!!
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