rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

tighten the diffs until they stop slipping.. gear diff would be nice for sport / racing when you want repeatable settings.. but not a requirement. if you let them slip to long you will need to rebuild your diffs and start again..

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Well

Today first test, not track test, just parking lot test near home ... and the car seems very good (remember, a fully upgraded Cyclone S i bought NIB).

The thing is that i geared for 4.8 FDR and the car went reeeeaaaally good (13.5 brushless class, novak SS system with GTB).

Today at a friends store, he installed for me a new rotor, the upgraded one from novak, and we tested the car on the street simulating track behaviour and timing, ans changed the gearing to 4.39 FDR and the car seems to have a lot of power, lots of initial torque and the temp went down a little ...

Any tip/opinion on 13.5 novak racing with the upgraded rotor ?

On the other side, my friends at the store never saw a cyclone before, but comparing to 85% TC5's they see at the track, they told me my car was brick heavy ... its this true about the Cyclone S ?, do i have to go and buy carbon fibre chassis and towers ?, other than that i have it all purple hotbodies parts upgraded ...

thanks,

thanks,

Pat

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Yes the cyclone S is a lot heavier than the regular cyclone.

However, if you are allowed/using LiPos i suspect this will not be an issue....

artwork

iTrader: (88)

I am not going to pass judgment, but if you are new to the hobby you should not be running an 8.5 brushless motor. That is a lot of motor even for a seasoned racer. The Cyclone S RTR is not really designed for the labors of modified motors. The Cyclone S RTR is not designed for the high end racing segment. I would offer a couple of suggestions.

1) try a 17.5 or 13.5 motor in your car and really spend some time learning about the car, setup and basics on on-road racing.

2) Move up to the Cyclone TC and take full advantage of a world championship caliber car.

Honestly, I would suggest option 1 and really hone your skills for the future. The more time you put in now learning the basics the better off you will be in the long run. I can bet a large sum of money that you will be faster around the track with a 17.5 motor then with that 8.5.

I guess I did not really answer you question...

There are lots of option parts for this car...you could add a spool to the front and an upgraded diff in the rear.

Check here for some upgrade and option parts.
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/parts...pe=OPT&lang=en

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

What do you mean by upgraded rotor? The motors come with 12.3mm rotors which are basically a rpm rotor. The optional 13mm rotor offers more bottom end torque and less rpm. Due to the increased torque the motor can be geared higher to get the rpm back some. The bigger rotor also runs allot cooler than the smaller one. Also....if you start to race your motor will be illegal with the 13mm rotor.

Ummmm

Can anyone help me out?

illz302

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the help guys. I am not totally new to RC just to the TC end of things especially racing but after driving the car the 8.5 is exactly what I was looking for power wise.

artwork

iTrader: (88)

1) Gearing will depend on track size. for 13.5 try 5.0 FDR. for my TC that would be 100 spur 43 pinion with a 2.167 internal ratio.

2) Gold up front and silver springs in the rear. 45wt oil. pistons#2. 1.5mm under the toe blocks all the way around. 3deg in the rear 1.5 up front (toe blocks)

3) Silver front sway bar copper in the rear.

4) all of this is a guess since I do not know what kind of surface and track size. You can download a setup and try to make changes from their based on track conditions.

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Down here in my country the 13mm rotor its legal ...

My main concern its the weight of the cyclone S, even fully upgraded today i tested for 15 minutes at the track and it performs awesome, and some drivers saw it and told me the car was very very good, but on racing situation, how bad will be the extra weight ? ...

Now, it worth to get the fiber chassis and towers ?

thanks guys,

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

I have the S as well. Where do the kit spring fall n term of stiffnes compared to the different black ones?

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

blue spring- 15.3lb/in
kit silver spring- 16.9
pink spring - 18.0
kit gold spring - 19.0
white spring - 20.3

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

thanks!

mac853

I am so frustrated, my new Cyclone come with some defects: the 10mm washers and a small ring for diff come with little bit corrosive and before i open the bag, the other side of motor mount is scratched by other due the 2 parts is in same bag.
I am so disappointed with the quality of the HB, worse than Tamiya.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I know I'm a little biased, but I've never had that problem in any HPI/HB kit I've ever built. I've built A LOT of HPI kits in my time in racing/hobby. But honestly, those sound like some very minor complaints. I've built other kits that were much worse from other companies that I'll leave unnamed.

-Korey

mac853

The only thing i could, is cover the top side of mount with decals, that i did already, or maybe i will change the flat 1 of RC Square if i could find in HK in Monday.
About the washer is not big deal, in case i have the spare 1 from aluminium diff cup, but i think is due the copper washer which made the corrosion of the silver 1, i guess.
About the other i want to tell is, also the spool/one way is not well made, the CNC machinering of HB didn't made well in round side of this part.