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Old 04-29-2009, 12:13 PM   #16081
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Default Which version is best?

I currently run the original cyclone and I am ready to retire it and get another one. My lhs has a morespeed and a hara edition on the wall that I can get a good deal on, but would I be better off with the TC or wait to see if a new car comes out soon? I am running 13.5 rubber tire medium grip carpet, thanks for any help. And will a smc 6000mah 28c lipo fit in a cyclone?
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Old 04-29-2009, 12:19 PM   #16082
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hey man i sent you a PM, check!
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Old 04-29-2009, 12:45 PM   #16083
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Originally Posted by Gwoodrc View Post
I currently run the original cyclone and I am ready to retire it and get another one. My lhs has a morespeed and a hara edition on the wall that I can get a good deal on, but would I be better off with the TC or wait to see if a new car comes out soon? I am running 13.5 rubber tire medium grip carpet, thanks for any help. And will a smc 6000mah 28c lipo fit in a cyclone?
I have basically the same question. Looking to get a cyclone(coming from the pro4). Should I go straight to a TC or should I keep my options open on some of the older cyclones? Because I really want a cyclone. Just not sure which route to go with. Where's the best place to find a used TC??
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Old 04-29-2009, 01:02 PM   #16084
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you can get a new tc from stormer hobbies for 350.. nuf said
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Old 04-29-2009, 01:57 PM   #16085
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you can get a new tc from stormer hobbies for 350.. nuf said
Best Price !
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Old 04-29-2009, 02:08 PM   #16086
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Hello,

Would you use a center one-way with a spool or do you use a center one-way with a one-way in the front??

Thanks!
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Old 04-29-2009, 07:00 PM   #16087
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hey guys I just put a Novak Havoc 8.5 brushless system in my Cyclone S RTR and my differentials are slipping is there any company that makes a nice upgraded diff for the car? Or is a gear diff better? If so who makes a gear diff? Sorry for the questions but I am somewhat new to this RC hobby and I have no idea where to look.
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Old 04-29-2009, 08:26 PM   #16088
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Originally Posted by illz302 View Post
hey guys I just put a Novak Havoc 8.5 brushless system in my Cyclone S RTR and my differentials are slipping is there any company that makes a nice upgraded diff for the car? Or is a gear diff better? If so who makes a gear diff? Sorry for the questions but I am somewhat new to this RC hobby and I have no idea where to look.
tighten the diffs until they stop slipping.. gear diff would be nice for sport / racing when you want repeatable settings.. but not a requirement. if you let them slip to long you will need to rebuild your diffs and start again..
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Old 04-29-2009, 08:41 PM   #16089
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Well

Today first test, not track test, just parking lot test near home ... and the car seems very good (remember, a fully upgraded Cyclone S i bought NIB).

The thing is that i geared for 4.8 FDR and the car went reeeeaaaally good (13.5 brushless class, novak SS system with GTB).

Today at a friends store, he installed for me a new rotor, the upgraded one from novak, and we tested the car on the street simulating track behaviour and timing, ans changed the gearing to 4.39 FDR and the car seems to have a lot of power, lots of initial torque and the temp went down a little ...

Any tip/opinion on 13.5 novak racing with the upgraded rotor ?

On the other side, my friends at the store never saw a cyclone before, but comparing to 85% TC5's they see at the track, they told me my car was brick heavy ... its this true about the Cyclone S ?, do i have to go and buy carbon fibre chassis and towers ?, other than that i have it all purple hotbodies parts upgraded ...

thanks,

thanks,

Pat

Last edited by Tabushi; 04-29-2009 at 08:54 PM.
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Old 04-29-2009, 09:22 PM   #16090
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Yes the cyclone S is a lot heavier than the regular cyclone.

However, if you are allowed/using LiPos i suspect this will not be an issue....
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Old 04-29-2009, 09:44 PM   #16091
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Originally Posted by illz302 View Post
hey guys I just put a Novak Havoc 8.5 brushless system in my Cyclone S RTR and my differentials are slipping is there any company that makes a nice upgraded diff for the car? Or is a gear diff better? If so who makes a gear diff? Sorry for the questions but I am somewhat new to this RC hobby and I have no idea where to look.
I am not going to pass judgment, but if you are new to the hobby you should not be running an 8.5 brushless motor. That is a lot of motor even for a seasoned racer. The Cyclone S RTR is not really designed for the labors of modified motors. The Cyclone S RTR is not designed for the high end racing segment. I would offer a couple of suggestions.

1) try a 17.5 or 13.5 motor in your car and really spend some time learning about the car, setup and basics on on-road racing.

2) Move up to the Cyclone TC and take full advantage of a world championship caliber car.

Honestly, I would suggest option 1 and really hone your skills for the future. The more time you put in now learning the basics the better off you will be in the long run. I can bet a large sum of money that you will be faster around the track with a 17.5 motor then with that 8.5.

I guess I did not really answer you question...

There are lots of option parts for this car...you could add a spool to the front and an upgraded diff in the rear.

Check here for some upgrade and option parts.
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/parts...pe=OPT&lang=en
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Old 04-29-2009, 09:54 PM   #16092
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Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
Well

Today first test, not track test, just parking lot test near home ... and the car seems very good (remember, a fully upgraded Cyclone S i bought NIB).

The thing is that i geared for 4.8 FDR and the car went reeeeaaaally good (13.5 brushless class, novak SS system with GTB).

Today at a friends store, he installed for me a new rotor, the upgraded one from novak, and we tested the car on the street simulating track behaviour and timing, ans changed the gearing to 4.39 FDR and the car seems to have a lot of power, lots of initial torque and the temp went down a little ...

Any tip/opinion on 13.5 novak racing with the upgraded rotor ?

On the other side, my friends at the store never saw a cyclone before, but comparing to 85% TC5's they see at the track, they told me my car was brick heavy ... its this true about the Cyclone S ?, do i have to go and buy carbon fibre chassis and towers ?, other than that i have it all purple hotbodies parts upgraded ...

thanks,

thanks,

Pat
What do you mean by upgraded rotor? The motors come with 12.3mm rotors which are basically a rpm rotor. The optional 13mm rotor offers more bottom end torque and less rpm. Due to the increased torque the motor can be geared higher to get the rpm back some. The bigger rotor also runs allot cooler than the smaller one. Also....if you start to race your motor will be illegal with the 13mm rotor.
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Old 04-29-2009, 11:34 PM   #16093
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Originally Posted by Ummmm View Post
Hey there, just got myself a cyclone S as the TC's aren't available where I shop I've never ran on road before so I need help.

FYI I plan to run Lipo's on asphalt

1. Gearing for a 17.5 or 13.5 Pinion and Spur pls not just Final drive (Starting point anyway)
2. Basic idea of suspension starting point - springs, oil, piston
3. Sway bars
4. any tips pointers to consider before going racing.

thanks in advance
Can anyone help me out?
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Old 04-30-2009, 05:42 AM   #16094
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Thanks for the help guys. I am not totally new to RC just to the TC end of things especially racing but after driving the car the 8.5 is exactly what I was looking for power wise.
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Old 04-30-2009, 11:30 AM   #16095
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Originally Posted by Ummmm View Post
Hey there, just got myself a cyclone S as the TC's aren't available where I shop I've never ran on road before so I need help.

FYI I plan to run Lipo's on asphalt

1. Gearing for a 17.5 or 10.5 Pinion and Spur pls not just Final drive (Starting point anyway)
2. Basic idea of suspension starting point - springs, oil, piston
3. Sway bars
4. any tips pointers to consider before going racing.

thanks in advance
1) Gearing will depend on track size. for 13.5 try 5.0 FDR. for my TC that would be 100 spur 43 pinion with a 2.167 internal ratio.

2) Gold up front and silver springs in the rear. 45wt oil. pistons#2. 1.5mm under the toe blocks all the way around. 3deg in the rear 1.5 up front (toe blocks)

3) Silver front sway bar copper in the rear.

4) all of this is a guess since I do not know what kind of surface and track size. You can download a setup and try to make changes from their based on track conditions.
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