Hot Bodies Cyclone
02-28-2009, 05:01 PM
I am wanting to change my setup. At the moment i can drive the car very consistently. But I feel that the car is a bit TOO safe. Anyone got any ideas. I want to do some testing with differant setups to find the best one. I run rubber tyres on carpet with medium grip levels.
How does the layout of the track look? The typical smooth and sweeping European style layout? If it's really tight and technical, you can always try shortening your camber links a touch. That will make the car feel more "direct" and locked in when making inputs. The car becomes really reactive.
I would also try adding more ackerman shims. I've run less than 4 is the grip is really high a few times to smooth out the car in the middle of the corner, but it always seems I like 4mm the best. It's more of a personal prefrence thing though. I'd play with it a little more and see what you like.
You look to have a lot of shims under your camber links. You can go down to 2-2.5mm in the front. That will smooth out entry just a tick, but make the front end generate more grip in the middle and exit of the corner.
Dropping 5wt on the rear oil is a good suggestion as well. It will help weight transfer to the front a little quicker. Dont be afraid to drop to 2.5deg of rear toe. It looks as thought you are running a 13.5 spec motor, so it could help free up the back end of the car a tiny bit.
-Korey
03-01-2009, 08:02 AM
Thanks for the great reply's guys.
Ackerman: i used to always run 4mm ackerman but when i switched to the xray front hubs i was told to run 2mm to get the same feel as the standard hb hubs. But i have been told that the xray hubs are exactly the same as the hb ones if you use the the front hole on the hubs. So shall i put 4mm ackerman back on and then use the front holes on the hubs ??
I am running a spool at the front.
I want the car to have alot more corner speed. I can hold a really good line through the corners but have to go slower. So i NEED more corner speed.
Ackerman: i used to always run 4mm ackerman but when i switched to the xray front hubs i was told to run 2mm to get the same feel as the standard hb hubs. But i have been told that the xray hubs are exactly the same as the hb ones if you use the the front hole on the hubs. So shall i put 4mm ackerman back on and then use the front holes on the hubs ??
I am running a spool at the front.
I want the car to have alot more corner speed. I can hold a really good line through the corners but have to go slower. So i NEED more corner speed.
03-01-2009, 06:06 PM
Tech Initiate
Can some one please explain how to properly set up sway bars? Some say that the sawy bars have to be loose enough so it can move laterally freely for them to work right. others say it has be set so that it doesnt move at all right to left, but it can move up and down. What;s the deal?
03-01-2009, 07:19 PM
I dont mean to be negative or a downer;;
but I bought the cyclone TC around christmas and it is the most delicate car I have Ever driven. I can't even go out and practice without an a arm or knuckle shattering, I think the part quality is CRAP.
Are there any upgraded or hardened A arms for this car, I know there are aluminum knuckles if you can find them what a disappointment
but I bought the cyclone TC around christmas and it is the most delicate car I have Ever driven. I can't even go out and practice without an a arm or knuckle shattering, I think the part quality is CRAP.
Are there any upgraded or hardened A arms for this car, I know there are aluminum knuckles if you can find them what a disappointment
03-01-2009, 07:53 PM
Can some one please explain how to properly set up sway bars? Some say that the sawy bars have to be loose enough so it can move laterally freely for them to work right. others say it has be set so that it doesnt move at all right to left, but it can move up and down. What;s the deal?
03-01-2009, 08:05 PM
I dont mean to be negative or a downer;;
but I bought the cyclone TC around christmas and it is the most delicate car I have Ever driven. I can't even go out and practice without an a arm or knuckle shattering, I think the part quality is CRAP.
Are there any upgraded or hardened A arms for this car, I know there are aluminum knuckles if you can find them what a disappointment
but I bought the cyclone TC around christmas and it is the most delicate car I have Ever driven. I can't even go out and practice without an a arm or knuckle shattering, I think the part quality is CRAP.
Are there any upgraded or hardened A arms for this car, I know there are aluminum knuckles if you can find them what a disappointment
Are you running any added aluminum pieces? Sometimes those hurt more than help.
-Korey
03-01-2009, 11:12 PM
I dont mean to be negative or a downer;;
but I bought the cyclone TC around christmas and it is the most delicate car I have Ever driven. I can't even go out and practice without an a arm or knuckle shattering, I think the part quality is CRAP.
Are there any upgraded or hardened A arms for this car, I know there are aluminum knuckles if you can find them what a disappointment
but I bought the cyclone TC around christmas and it is the most delicate car I have Ever driven. I can't even go out and practice without an a arm or knuckle shattering, I think the part quality is CRAP.
Are there any upgraded or hardened A arms for this car, I know there are aluminum knuckles if you can find them what a disappointment
After all that I have yet to break a single part and would rate the cyclone very durable.
03-02-2009, 04:30 AM
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MEMBER OF THE "MWC" Mimi Wong Clan
Posts: 2,442
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TJAMES,i race at the same places you race and YES the front end of the car is very delicate!! Even at the point of brushing up against a board the car will break just like that.
The complaints of cars breaking is also determined by the type of track and conditions we race on. We race on high bite high speed indoor carpet and high bite asphalt tracks, with boards that dont move. Most other racers are running the car run on wide open tracks, parking lots, outside asphalt. Also with the colder weather, we thought the higher graphite was too brittle. Indoor temp as cold as 60 degrees. I have been running the car for almost a year, and never had as much breakage with this car until we went indoors and with the colder conditions.
As a fix for broken steering knuckles, we went to aluminum steering knuckles, and it really helped a lot. I understand aluminum is the way not the way to go, but we had to FINISH RACES. I recommend purchasing "JET" brand steering knuckles, they are a direct replacement. I recommend NOT purchasing the 3 RACING which is not the same material, softer and the linkages are not the same when installed.
The other option was to install the Pro4 front arms, softer material, some were made out of nylon which were more black in color than the gray color of the TC arms. But you wont have the optional shock positions(which i dont use anyways). And the sway bar hardware must be the older stuff, the stud on the old arms are fatter and will bind the new TC swaybar ball cups.
With a lot of track time, I was able to qualify 8th at the Northeast Grand Slam Race at MiMIs and finished 7th overall!!! The only HB cyclone in the A-main, a buddy just missed it by a few tenths. Thats a lot of track time to get the car right.
We will be at the Coliseaum soon for asphalt and we will see how it does.
LMK if i can be of help.
Arvin
The complaints of cars breaking is also determined by the type of track and conditions we race on. We race on high bite high speed indoor carpet and high bite asphalt tracks, with boards that dont move. Most other racers are running the car run on wide open tracks, parking lots, outside asphalt. Also with the colder weather, we thought the higher graphite was too brittle. Indoor temp as cold as 60 degrees. I have been running the car for almost a year, and never had as much breakage with this car until we went indoors and with the colder conditions.
As a fix for broken steering knuckles, we went to aluminum steering knuckles, and it really helped a lot. I understand aluminum is the way not the way to go, but we had to FINISH RACES. I recommend purchasing "JET" brand steering knuckles, they are a direct replacement. I recommend NOT purchasing the 3 RACING which is not the same material, softer and the linkages are not the same when installed.
The other option was to install the Pro4 front arms, softer material, some were made out of nylon which were more black in color than the gray color of the TC arms. But you wont have the optional shock positions(which i dont use anyways). And the sway bar hardware must be the older stuff, the stud on the old arms are fatter and will bind the new TC swaybar ball cups.
With a lot of track time, I was able to qualify 8th at the Northeast Grand Slam Race at MiMIs and finished 7th overall!!! The only HB cyclone in the A-main, a buddy just missed it by a few tenths. Thats a lot of track time to get the car right.
We will be at the Coliseaum soon for asphalt and we will see how it does.
LMK if i can be of help.
Arvin
03-02-2009, 04:36 AM
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MEMBER OF THE "MWC" Mimi Wong Clan
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I was thinking of not going to the Carpet Nats with this car because of the lack of parts and support.
Now, i am going, and the locals are willing to give me all their parts to use for support. mainly front end parts. i was at the track testing the handout tires yesterday and all the cars were 1/2 second slower than with the other brand tires, which was fine, because it is a spec tire for the nats. gonna be testing a lot in the next few weeks, trying to get the job DONE!
Arvin
Now, i am going, and the locals are willing to give me all their parts to use for support. mainly front end parts. i was at the track testing the handout tires yesterday and all the cars were 1/2 second slower than with the other brand tires, which was fine, because it is a spec tire for the nats. gonna be testing a lot in the next few weeks, trying to get the job DONE!
Arvin
03-02-2009, 08:19 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I just wanted to tell you guys that the info on arm sweep, fluid dynamics, ackerman and droop was very helpful to me. I went from mostly 12's with 11.8 my best to mostly 11's with 11.2 my best with small changes to my setup.
Thanks guys !!!!!!!
Thanks guys !!!!!!!
03-02-2009, 09:32 AM
TJAMES,i race at the same places you race and YES the front end of the car is very delicate!! Even at the point of brushing up against a board the car will break just like that.
The complaints of cars breaking is also determined by the type of track and conditions we race on. We race on high bite high speed indoor carpet and high bite asphalt tracks, with boards that dont move. Most other racers are running the car run on wide open tracks, parking lots, outside asphalt. Also with the colder weather, we thought the higher graphite was too brittle. Indoor temp as cold as 60 degrees. I have been running the car for almost a year, and never had as much breakage with this car until we went indoors and with the colder conditions.
As a fix for broken steering knuckles, we went to aluminum steering knuckles, and it really helped a lot. I understand aluminum is the way not the way to go, but we had to FINISH RACES. I recommend purchasing "JET" brand steering knuckles, they are a direct replacement. I recommend NOT purchasing the 3 RACING which is not the same material, softer and the linkages are not the same when installed.
The other option was to install the Pro4 front arms, softer material, some were made out of nylon which were more black in color than the gray color of the TC arms. But you wont have the optional shock positions(which i dont use anyways). And the sway bar hardware must be the older stuff, the stud on the old arms are fatter and will bind the new TC swaybar ball cups.
With a lot of track time, I was able to qualify 8th at the Northeast Grand Slam Race at MiMIs and finished 7th overall!!! The only HB cyclone in the A-main, a buddy just missed it by a few tenths. Thats a lot of track time to get the car right.
We will be at the Coliseaum soon for asphalt and we will see how it does.
LMK if i can be of help.
Arvin
The complaints of cars breaking is also determined by the type of track and conditions we race on. We race on high bite high speed indoor carpet and high bite asphalt tracks, with boards that dont move. Most other racers are running the car run on wide open tracks, parking lots, outside asphalt. Also with the colder weather, we thought the higher graphite was too brittle. Indoor temp as cold as 60 degrees. I have been running the car for almost a year, and never had as much breakage with this car until we went indoors and with the colder conditions.
As a fix for broken steering knuckles, we went to aluminum steering knuckles, and it really helped a lot. I understand aluminum is the way not the way to go, but we had to FINISH RACES. I recommend purchasing "JET" brand steering knuckles, they are a direct replacement. I recommend NOT purchasing the 3 RACING which is not the same material, softer and the linkages are not the same when installed.
The other option was to install the Pro4 front arms, softer material, some were made out of nylon which were more black in color than the gray color of the TC arms. But you wont have the optional shock positions(which i dont use anyways). And the sway bar hardware must be the older stuff, the stud on the old arms are fatter and will bind the new TC swaybar ball cups.
With a lot of track time, I was able to qualify 8th at the Northeast Grand Slam Race at MiMIs and finished 7th overall!!! The only HB cyclone in the A-main, a buddy just missed it by a few tenths. Thats a lot of track time to get the car right.
We will be at the Coliseaum soon for asphalt and we will see how it does.
LMK if i can be of help.
Arvin
03-02-2009, 09:39 AM
Thats strange.I never broke a knuckle at Norcal or Stockton on carpet.Outdoor,I may have broken once due to an electronic failure and a runaway.I have had every version of cyclone too.I know others have broken knuckles,but thats unfortunate for some who have had more bad luck then others.We have a bunch of Cyclones running local to me and very little issues.
03-02-2009, 09:57 AM
Hello everybody ,
I have a question , i went racing on sunday and it was really good excepte one thing , i need a bit more mid corner steering .
I had more than enough entry steering but for mid corner exit i need a litle bit more steering if its possible .
The track is carpet medium traction quite flowing , and when i raced at the same place before with a tighter layout , i also needed more mid exit steering.
My current setup is the following :
Controlled tires are SWEEP 32 ,
front
ride height : 5.25 mm
droop over ride height :3.5 mm
base role center ( under pivot blocks ) : 1mm
role center under camber links : 3mm
1.5 camber
0.5 toe out
pink spring with 50w oil
1.5 in-board toe block
silver roll bar ( 1.4mm )
shock positon #2.5
spool
ackermann 2mm
rear
ride height : 5.75 mm
droop over ride height : 4mm
base role center ( under pivot block ) : 1mm
under camber link : 2mm
1.5 camber
3.0 in-board toe block
copper roll bar ( 1.2mm )
silver spring with 45w oil
shock position #3.5
It was ran on a WCE cyclone .
If anyone could give me any advice of how to have more mid corner and exit steering it will be much appreciated .
Thanks for any help .
I have a question , i went racing on sunday and it was really good excepte one thing , i need a bit more mid corner steering .
I had more than enough entry steering but for mid corner exit i need a litle bit more steering if its possible .
The track is carpet medium traction quite flowing , and when i raced at the same place before with a tighter layout , i also needed more mid exit steering.
My current setup is the following :
Controlled tires are SWEEP 32 ,
front
ride height : 5.25 mm
droop over ride height :3.5 mm
base role center ( under pivot blocks ) : 1mm
role center under camber links : 3mm
1.5 camber
0.5 toe out
pink spring with 50w oil
1.5 in-board toe block
silver roll bar ( 1.4mm )
shock positon #2.5
spool
ackermann 2mm
rear
ride height : 5.75 mm
droop over ride height : 4mm
base role center ( under pivot block ) : 1mm
under camber link : 2mm
1.5 camber
3.0 in-board toe block
copper roll bar ( 1.2mm )
silver spring with 45w oil
shock position #3.5
It was ran on a WCE cyclone .
If anyone could give me any advice of how to have more mid corner and exit steering it will be much appreciated .
Thanks for any help .
03-02-2009, 10:55 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
I guess I have been fortunate. I tend to durability test every car I get and the Cyclone has been very good to me. I think I broke more stuff on my RDXs and my TC5s.
I think STLNLST needs to quit hitting stuff....
I think STLNLST needs to quit hitting stuff....
03-02-2009, 11:15 AM
The Cyclone remains the best car I have ever driven. Knuckles are a factor out at Chico. I'm just thinking out loud when I say this but I wonder if the knuckles were sold in pairs would some of the guys not be as frustrated.
Just because some haven't had this problem doesn't mean it's not an issue. I got happy right before the main when Scotty broke a knuckle
on his warm up lap. I started yelling I beat Scotty, I beat Scotty! Do you know this guys changed out a knuckle and was back on the starting grid just shy on the 2min race delay He must have had some practice changing those before