Originally Posted by RC MARKET

this race was lose so don't release !
no selling point !

Originally Posted by Korey Harbke

Lonestar has the right idea. The closer the upper arm (camber link in our case) gets to being equal length with the lower arm, the less camber regression (going more negative) there will be. When the upper and lower arms are of equal length it gives pretty much zero camber change. When you go shorter, it increases camber change (it goes more negative) as the suspension is compressed.

How does this effect the car? Longer will typically create more overall traction in the middle and exit of the corner, but it makes the car react slower intially. When you make the links shorter it increases initial grip and has less traction in the middle and exit of a corner. Higher traction tracks with a twisty layout will favor shorter camber links and lower traction tracks with a longer sweeping layout will favor longer links.

It does depend a little on where you are making the change though. What I just outlined is specifically when you change the camber link length from the bulkhead. The outer mounting position will have some different overall results when changed. On the HB Cyclone we have two different camber link mounting positions on the rear hub carrier. The inner one will make the rear end react really quick initially and have more overall grip through the turn. The outer mounting position makes the rear end of the car react a little slower, but it also reduces grip in the middle and exit of the corner. I use the inner position in most conditions, but with my foam tire carpet racing I've been testing a lot of, I have been liking the outer position a lot.

The angle of camber links also messes with camber change as well. Flatter links will give less overall camber change. They produce a little bit more initial grip, but for the most part they produce less overall grip through the middle and exit of a corner. More angled links will produce slightly less initial grip, but more grip in the middle and exit of a corner.

Hope that helps!!!

-Korey

Originally Posted by trickd122

Yes Korey it does help!

Now next question is the swaybar action or lack there of. I generally set my car up using the 1.2mm in the rear, the thin copper one. Now lifting one arm up almost has no effect on the other. Isn't this swaybar the pointless or am I missing something?

-Tino

Originally Posted by artwork

Are you testing it with shocks and tires off?

Originally Posted by RC=Realy_Costly

hi!

just recently bought the bottom of the range cyclone (u no the full plastic pre built kit) just as a thrasher for when im not at the track and for some reason cant get any gear mesh wat so ever

the motor is a 540 the spur is that which came with the car and i first tried a 33 tooth pinion.... no mesh now just bought a bigger pinion....NO MESH and no matter how i position twist and turn the motor im still mm's away

ive also dremeled the housing to move the motor a lil closer and still NO MESH!!!!!!

can anyone please help

Originally Posted by M-Tune

Whats a good Pinion/Spur gear setup for a 13.5 in the Cyclone TC on a carpet track.

Originally Posted by trickd122

off and on, same issue

Originally Posted by artwork

Well, this subject has got me thinking a lot too. I have been playing around with different sway bars on my setup and quite simply the sway bars on the bench seem to have less affect on the bench then on the track. I too have noticed that on the bench it seems like an issue that lifting one side does not have a great affect on the other side however on the track it seems to make a large difference. I have recently went back to the older style sway bars holders and it seems to help the bench testing, but does not seems to make any difference on the track from the new style holders. Play around with it and you will find that the car is pretty sensitive to sway bars, even the thin one will make a difference in how the car handles.

Originally Posted by cyclone speed

Hi ,

I tried your setup STLNLST , on sunday and indeed it was way better then mine , i just went to a thicker rear roll bar and the car was perfect , i went from a 19 lapper with my setup to a 21 lapper with your setup so thanks alot it did help .

Then comes the probleme unfertunatley , whent i want to de tweak my car because it doesnt drive straight , i put my car on the tweak station and :
this sunday , the weight limit was 1500 gramms in mod , i added 35 g in front of the 5 cell pack and 20 g and the back . When i was at 1500 g , it was easy to de tweak the car , but when im going to race in 2 weeks time i was preparing the car and the weight limit will be 1425 g so i took of the weights and now the car is so hard to de tweak, im using a spirit level tweak station and if i want to get the buble in the midle or about in the midle , the ride height on the right hand side ( battery side ) is 7 mm and on the left is 5.5 as i wanted , do you guys know what i cpuld do to help it ?
Thanks for any help

Originally Posted by Korey Harbke

When 5 cell racing was being experimented with here in the US, I had the same problem with a different car I ran. For the car to balance out with 5 cells, it still had to be about the same weight as a 6 cell car. I started adding titanium screws around the car, using a low profile servo such as the Futaba S9551, and even some aluminum screws in really low stress areas. That allowed me to put the weight I needed on the car and still remain relatively light.

-Korey