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Old 02-17-2005, 02:02 PM   #31
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xray racer:

of course it is worth equalizing on that tray of yours it's better than not equalizing at all, integy trays are good quality although the activator is not currently available there are some low cost alternatives designed for todays ni-mh like the indi zero equalizer sells for $20.00 usd.

always equalize before charging for better results, don't charge until battery comes back to room temperature and please don't modify anything unless you know what you're doing!

good racing!

O.R.
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Old 02-17-2005, 02:09 PM   #32
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Would it be okay to charge a pack, run it, charge it again, run it again and then discharge at 20a and put on a tray to 0.5v and then use ina weeks time.
Or for being stored a week should I put on the tray like normal and then put on a charge for 5 mins?
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Old 02-17-2005, 02:31 PM   #33
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Don't back to back charge unless you don't care about the battery. Generally you want to leave it 1.5 to 2 hours between charges.
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Old 02-17-2005, 05:18 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by JayBee
Hey picco-
I actually have the INDI Zero 6S and I like it ALOT better than my Novak ST. With this I don't have to worry about polarity, it's bi-polar (of course), it's small, 6A discharge rate, no chance for cell reversal and it's stackable. After the bulbs go out, leave it on the tray or take it off. If you choose to leave it on the tray, just be aware of the increased chance of false peaking when you charge the next time. I think you have to worry about this with any 0.0v discharger though. You're going to definitely get more cap. into your cells this way if that's what you're after. I figure the only time I'll use .9v is when I'm storing my packs; otherwise it's 0.0v before I charge and race. Oh, to get by the false peak issue just set-up your charger using temp. charge and or higher del.V. I'm learning all this myself so any and all confirmation on this is appreciated ...

- JB

Jaybee,

Thanks for replying. I will be getting 3 of them since I know it does take time to discharge down to .0V's. How long does it usually take to go down to zero volts? I'm getting ready to order these trays.

Thanks.
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Old 02-17-2005, 06:49 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
Jaybee,

Thanks for replying. I will be getting 3 of them since I know it does take time to discharge down to .0V's. How long does it usually take to go down to zero volts? I'm getting ready to order these trays.

Thanks.
I would guesstimate at 'least' 2 hours. It's hard to say without a voltmeter, but according to INDI's paperwork that came with it, after the lights go out it discharges at a lower current for at least 2 hours. It's probably not all that important but I wish they mentioned what that lower current was. But you could leave it on longer of course

- JB
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Old 02-17-2005, 07:44 PM   #36
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Hi Jaybee,

I know you will be interested in this. With the Pro Trak if you attatch the remote leads to a set of cells in any equaliser you can monitor the voltage as it equalises.

Chris.
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:58 PM   #37
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hey thanx,

another thing tho,

it only discharges @ 2.2amp per cell, so what voltage should i let it go down to???... what i do is (because it doesnt have a cut off) i put my packs on the tray _trinity monster metall 3300 zebra cells, and i connect my charger to them at the same time, (yokomo bms)... and it shows up the voltage of the pack, most of the time i let them get to around 7.4-7.3 and take them off...what should i actually let them go to??? SAFELY???

any help would be appreciated

robbie
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Old 02-17-2005, 10:07 PM   #38
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Jaybee,

Thanks for that info......I may still get them since it seems like they will make it to zero volts in a timely matter. I know that the pro trak will take them down but I want to do more than one pack at a time since I race two classes each race day.....

Thanks again.
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Old 02-17-2005, 10:29 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
Jaybee,

Thanks for that info......I may still get them since it seems like they will make it to zero volts in a timely matter. I know that the pro trak will take them down but I want to do more than one pack at a time since I race two classes each race day.....

Thanks again.
No prob... glad to help
P.S.- GET THE TRAYS!!!

- JB
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Old 02-17-2005, 11:13 PM   #40
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Shoot...I ALWAYS run a pack twice. I get the same if not better mah on the 2nd charge AND more punch. (after equalizing) Some say that after the first run, the cells "wake up" and they come more to life. So I run in this order:

Qual 1: Batt A
Qual 2: Batt B
Qual 3: Batt A

Z-MAIN: Batt B


Me thinks some folks baby their cells too much. Cmon...they're batteries for pete's sake.
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Last edited by Soviet; 02-18-2005 at 12:20 AM.
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Old 02-18-2005, 12:57 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by Soviet
Shoot...I ALWAYS run a pack twice. I get the same if not better mah on the 2nd charge AND more punch. (after equalizing) Some say that after the first run, the cells "wake up" and they come more to life. So I run in this order:

Qual 1: Batt A
Qual 2: Batt B
Qual 3: Batt A

Z-MAIN: Batt B


Me thinks some folks baby their cells too much. Cmon...they're batteries for pete's sake.
You would too if you bought six packs a [email protected] $70-90 equals $420-$540.....I get a whole year out of my cells then they become super great practice and loaner packs....
I like to baby my cells and make sure I get the best possible voltage and capacity. I bet you get more out of the second charge cause your packs are warm when you start.....HHHHMMM don't some matchers do that trick too. Just poking fun...
I get all that my cells say they do and then some..
Here are my cells and what they get with the techneque I use.
1.180-1.181V---403sec---30amp dis----5000cutoff---2.3IR---
when charged the pack it charges up to 4200mah and gives me real race time runs of 450sec run times and outstanding punch. with a stock motor...on the first charge...Why would I want to waste that when I have another pack right behind that to do the same thing...and they last a whole year...well maybe 10 months but some cells die faster...(not getting into which brand bla bla bla)

just my two pennies,
Stephen <><
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Old 02-18-2005, 01:24 AM   #42
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sorry to be a pain, but could someone answer my last q please???... im gunna cycle some packs tonite n i wanted to know what voltage to let my cells go down to on my tray, an integy INDI activator??? each globe is rated at 2.2amps and i read the voltage by connecting my charger to the pack while its on the tray... its a yokomo bms

so what does everyone reccommend??? i realise its gunna take hours to discharge... but i guess its better than nuthing right???


my cells are trinity monster metal 3300's... zebra cells

do they like to be taken to zero v or not???

im a racer on a budget so i dont really wanna ruin my cells so if any methods of dead shorting or whatever are NOT safe... please let me know

thanx

robbie
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Old 02-18-2005, 04:03 AM   #43
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Robbie.....(For Stock class) I dead short all of my batterys.... some are the zebra shrink wraped cells.......Theres no difference in safety or cell life with the zebra shrink cell......so bringing them to 0 is fine for them....Just make sure their truely at 0 (check with a voltmeter)If your going to deadshort..........Joe
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Last edited by Joe B; 02-18-2005 at 04:09 AM.
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Old 02-18-2005, 04:05 AM   #44
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or the voltmeter on your charger
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Old 02-18-2005, 04:15 AM   #45
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also....Are you sure the indy activator dosn't have a 0.0v cut off...thought it did.......might be wrong though
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