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Old 11-25-2012, 12:59 PM   #526
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Just got qty 2 D3.5s to be used with my tekin rs speedos in 1s 1/10 pan oval classes. A 17.5 that will be run in open boosted speedo class, what amp draw or motor timing setting and what boost and rpm settings will be a good start? the other motor is the D3.5 13.5 i will use in the blinky class, what amp draw or motor timing setting is a good start in blinky? These will be 100-150 ft size carpet ovals both motors

How do you measure for the sensor voltage problem with tekins so I can make sure I wont have day of race problems?
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:32 AM   #527
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Originally Posted by marcomarino35 View Post
I ran sunday the italian indoor championship, in 13,5 no timing category.
I use fdr 4.1 and timing 40.
In a corner exit was very good but the straight was slowly...
The temperature are 80/90 celsius...
Some advice?
QUOTE=marcomarino35;11462059]I want more stright speed...[/QUOTE]

Please.. Some advice...
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:27 PM   #528
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Some of this is true. If you have an esc that is only providing 3.5v with a properly charged receiver pack OR a properly functioning booster you have a failure in the sensor port.

It has nothing to do with the age of it.

It occurs when a voltage spike back feeds through the system, blows a component and increases the resistance of the circuit. This is where the voltage drop occurs. We only see this failure on 1s setups.
How can we check our RS to see if are getting the proper voltage out of the sensor port?
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:41 PM   #529
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QUOTE=marcomarino35;11462059]I want more stright speed...
Please.. Some advice...[/QUOTE]

Your timing is way high. These motors are only meant to go to 25* max. Did you dremel the endbell to turn it further? If you need more speed lower your FDR to around 3.8-3.9 and drop your timing to around 20*. You should never need to go higher the 25* on this motor.
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:56 PM   #530
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No, i didn't dremel the endbell... The zero in the endbell it's 30* effective, i use 15* in the endbell, right 45 effective
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:14 PM   #531
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How can we check our RS to see if are getting the proper voltage out of the sensor port?
Get a dvom, power up the car, battery negative to the first pin on the sensor harness of the motor, should be 5v or more...if you're running some boosters it maybe a touch lower, say 4.8v.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:25 AM   #532
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Get a dvom, power up the car, battery negative to the first pin on the sensor harness of the motor, should be 5v or more...if you're running some boosters it maybe a touch lower, say 4.8v.
dvom is that the same as a volt meter randy ? lmk thanks
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:16 AM   #533
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DVOM= Digital Volt Ohm Meter...yeah.
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:40 AM   #534
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How do these compare with say the X12 17.5 etc? We run 17.5 in VTA (HUGE Track) and at present I am being blown away on the straight using a Duo 3 with +10 timing on the endbell, 4.0 FDR (which is what we all run)
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:45 AM   #535
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How do these compare with say the X12 17.5 etc? We run 17.5 in VTA (HUGE Track) and at present I am being blown away on the straight using a Duo 3 with +10 timing on the endbell, 4.0 FDR (which is what we all run)
ever tried cranking the endbell all the way? When I used to run a 1705 duo3 I was at 3.8fdr timing all the way to the 4th line.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:17 AM   #536
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Originally Posted by marcomarino35 View Post
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QUOTE=marcomarino35;11462059]I want more stright speed...
Please.. Some advice...[/QUOTE]

Hello Marco,

they gave you the correct answer, longer fdr and lower timing to 20/25. Try this! Radaelli was running in this config and he was satisfied.
Tell me if you need more help.

Ciao, Ruggero
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:16 AM   #537
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ever tried cranking the endbell all the way? When I used to run a 1705 duo3 I was at 3.8fdr timing all the way to the 4th line.
I did but you lost a lot of punch through the infield
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:16 PM   #538
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thats the compromise you will have to make, either go top end to keep up with the rest or go bottom, and pass them in the tight bits. Find something in between where you lose the least amount of speed
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:44 PM   #539
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An updated rotor with the flat spot extending further down the motor shaft would be very welcome. The T4 and BD7 could both benefit from this. I imagine other cars too as they move to copy the best.
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:43 PM   #540
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thats the compromise you will have to make, either go top end to keep up with the rest or go bottom, and pass them in the tight bits. Find something in between where you lose the least amount of speed
So the D3.5 isn't going to be any better than the D3.0? Whats this with stores advertising it as a 3500kv 17.5 Motor as well?
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