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Old 11-19-2012, 05:18 PM   #511
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Originally Posted by Andy Koback View Post
Should not roll lop sided. Try a different rotor and I'll bet your problem is gone!
How does a rotor warp ???
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:22 PM   #512
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How does a rotor warp ???
Sometimes if the rotor gets really hot the magnets can start to break down and separate. Maybe yours was in the pre stages of this.
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:26 PM   #513
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Uri Geller bent it with his mind.

No idea man. Maybe a hard hit from the side, if you had the motor longitudinal in your A700 and the hit was hard enough to move the motor and smash the pinion into the spur. Or some solid debris going through your gears??
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:28 PM   #514
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Turn the timing up to 25-30. This rollout on a track that size is good. I actually went down a little this week on a new layout we have and was a little faster due to a tight infield.

Remember if your car is not efficient on the corners it's going to feel like a dog no mater what motor or gearing you use.

What car are you running?
I run the Team CRC WGT Lipo Edition. I could literally see guys catching me at the end of the straight. It was pretty obvious lol. When I went up in gearing it helped, but they could still catch me. My car is pretty good in the infeild, just has no speed. I'll try the timing in two weeks when I go back. Thanks for the help.

Ken
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:40 PM   #515
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I run the Team CRC WGT Lipo Edition. I could literally see guys catching me at the end of the straight. It was pretty obvious lol. When I went up in gearing it helped, but they could still catch me. My car is pretty good in the infeild, just has no speed. I'll try the timing in two weeks when I go back. Thanks for the help.

Ken
If you didnt have your timming all the way up they will catch you and pass you. In WGT you are going to be pretty safe at turning the timming up without the motor getting to 160 degrees! 88 spur and 40ish pinion and timming up! Do it.........
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:41 PM   #516
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So i took the motor out and its definately the motor thats the problem....For fun i pulled a brand new 6.5 turn duo 3.5 outta the box and snapped my fingers on the pinion shaft and it spun freely...i then did the same to the 17.5 and the shaft just budged a bit.....so i took it apart and rolled the rotor down my set up board and it rolled down lop sided....is this the problem?...not much of a motor guy usually just wire them up and run! lol...thanks.
told you!
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:46 AM   #517
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told you!
Yes it was good advice.....at a slow roll you can see it rolls like one side is heavier then the other but when you roll it fast you can hardly tell....im still confused as to why this happened...this motor never got hotter then 120F
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:46 AM   #518
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Originally Posted by marcomarino35 View Post
I ran sunday the italian indoor championship, in 13,5 no timing category.
I use fdr 4.1 and timing 40.
In a corner exit was very good but the straight was slowly...
The temperature are 80/90 celsius...
Some advice?
I want more stright speed...
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:48 AM   #519
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How come I can't change the timing pas...... Joking.

So I'm running 21.5 VTA, all the other guys are using motors in the 1800-2000kv range with an FDR of 3.8-4.0. I tried running this range with 10* timing and all I got was a motor with no punch and a lot of heat. I worked out the math and to get the same axle RPM as those guys with the higher KV d3.5, it seems I have to run something like a 5.3 FDR. Does this sound right?

Track is 60x60 and i'm running a Tekin RS on 2 cell high C rating if it makes any difference
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:28 PM   #520
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How come I can't change the timing pas...... Joking.

So I'm running 21.5 VTA, all the other guys are using motors in the 1800-2000kv range with an FDR of 3.8-4.0. I tried running this range with 10* timing and all I got was a motor with no punch and a lot of heat. I worked out the math and to get the same axle RPM as those guys with the higher KV d3.5, it seems I have to run something like a 5.3 FDR. Does this sound right?

Track is 60x60 and i'm running a Tekin RS on 2 cell high C rating if it makes any difference
Kv doesn't mean much, some motors are designed for high rpm\lower torque and some are high torque\low rpm. Gearing all comes down to testing for your track size and layout.

For a track that size with this motor i would think a 4.2fdr with the timing turned up all the way (25-30 on the endbell) would be good. You will need a fan blowing on the motor or i could see it hitting high 100's after an 8min race.

If the motor is temping 190+ after 8 mins with a fan than your car is not efficient in the turns and your scrubbing way to much speed or your pushing the car to hard into the turns scrubbing speed.

Ex. I let someone drive my 17.5 TC in a race that was very efficient in the turns. Based on there driving style after a 5min run the motor came off at 180deg and was way slower then when i drive the car. That same night i drove the car in the other 2 races and the motor temp was 140deg each time, my race times where 2 laps better with TQ and win in the main. He was pushing the car to hard into the turns blowing most of them each lap causing the motor to work harder when the throttle was reapplied.
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:38 PM   #521
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I will be the first to say I'm not efficient in the corners. This is my first ever try at onroad. I come from an offroad background.


When I was trying to run a 4.0 FDR I was coming up 4 laps short of the guys who have been doing this their whole hobby career. But was coming off at 180 with a fan. I've since dropped down to a 5.15 FDR and only came up 3 laps short but also only came off at 110

It's really hard to get testing in because they strike the track as soon as we're done.

Thanks for the info, looks like I've got some testing and practicing to do!
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:05 PM   #522
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Originally Posted by keddy View Post
I will be the first to say I'm not efficient in the corners. This is my first ever try at onroad. I come from an offroad background.


When I was trying to run a 4.0 FDR I was coming up 4 laps short of the guys who have been doing this their whole hobby career. But was coming off at 180 with a fan. I've since dropped down to a 5.15 FDR and only came up 3 laps short but also only came off at 110

It's really hard to get testing in because they strike the track as soon as we're done.

Thanks for the info, looks like I've got some testing and practicing to do!
What kind of settings do you gave in your ESC? Do you use drag brake? When I first started I ran drag brake and would come off hot. I stopped running drag and my temps dropped a bunch, and my times improved. In VTA we need to carry more speed then the TC's due to slower motors. Our track is bigger then yours and most of us run around the 4.0. I run 4.04. But I am running a Novak not the d3.5.
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:25 PM   #523
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Esc setting are normal. No drag brake. We also run blinky.

The guys running the novaks can get away with a 3.8 FDR on our track. The track is different layout each week. But it's always technical.

I'm going to just keep moving up on teeth until I find a good spot.
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:36 PM   #524
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Ok 1/12TH 13.5 blinky, 35x100 track, 11.9 lap times. Regular D3.5 or Magzilla? What do you think?
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:31 PM   #525
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Ok 1/12TH 13.5 blinky, 35x100 track, 11.9 lap times. Regular D3.5 or Magzilla? What do you think?
Either or will get the job done!
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