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Old 07-05-2012, 03:27 AM   #196
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Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
All brushless motors come with timing built in, because they run very poorly at true 0'. Not sure how much the D3 has at zero on the endbell, but it is certainly in the 20-30 degree range.
Ok. Thanks Lonny
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:39 AM   #197
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With 10 showing on can right ? Also should have said it was a 17.5
I think he meant 3.5 not 4.5.. and yes +10 on the can, you should be able to run a little more, but always start out low.
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:00 AM   #198
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I think he meant 3.5 not 4.5.. and yes +10 on the can, you should be able to run a little more, but always start out low.
we are running 3.5 and less but we have a 200+ foot straight.

I don't have experience on 100 ft and tight and technical but I would guess somewhere in the 4 range are you guys gearing it that low too on short tight stuff?
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:12 AM   #199
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we are running 3.5 and less but we have a 200+ foot straight.

I don't have experience on 100 ft and tight and technical but I would guess somewhere in the 4 range are you guys gearing it that low too on short tight stuff?
It doesn't really matter how long the straight it, unless we're talking about a 50' sized track, you need gear to get torque in a brushless motor. I run the same gearing withing a few ths indoor on a track with 80' straight and outdoors with 150'. If you track has huge lanes and you pretty much never let off, you can get away with lower gearing.
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:24 AM   #200
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Anyone have comments on this motor in a sc? I run on a med. Indoore clay track.
With the 12.5mm HT rotor - awesome. Significantly more power than the RevTech with the same rotor.
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:21 AM   #201
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thanks guys
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:51 PM   #202
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Just put in the 17.5 last Saturday and everything look good. Sunday the motor started stuttering when the car making turn. When the car take a complete stop and go again the stuttering will go away. Once the stuttering started it won't go into full speed. Check the battery, cap, wires all look good. Put in different motor problem gone. Thinking the senor went bad? Motor never go up 160.
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Old 07-06-2012, 07:22 AM   #203
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Just put in the 17.5 last Saturday and everything look good. Sunday the motor started stuttering when the car making turn. When the car take a complete stop and go again the stuttering will go away. Once the stuttering started it won't go into full speed. Check the battery, cap, wires all look good. Put in different motor problem gone. Thinking the senor went bad? Motor never go up 160.
I am assuming that you changed the sensor wire etc?
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Old 07-06-2012, 07:44 AM   #204
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I am assuming that you changed the sensor wire etc?
Yes I did also I notice when the motor start acting up my tekin RS sensor led won't blink but once I stop and re-rev the motor everything back to normal until there is a sudden load (sharp turn) on the motor.
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Old 07-06-2012, 07:50 AM   #205
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Yes I did also I notice when the motor start acting up my tekin RS sensor led won't blink but once I stop and re-rev the motor everything back to normal until there is a sudden load (sharp turn) on the motor.
I know this is going to sound off the wall, but if you can change out the end bell with the Hall senor in it. I had a similar issue and it was the bearing not pressed in straight. I noticed the problem with the car on the pit stand, it would run then sound like the gear mesh was WAY off, but it was not... The man himself looked over the motor and the end bell is what he changed out and how he explained it. It solved the problem...

This may not be you issue, but it is worth looking at....
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Old 07-06-2012, 08:01 AM   #206
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I know this is going to sound off the wall, but if you can change out the end bell with the Hall senor in it. I had a similar issue and it was the bearing not pressed in straight. I noticed the problem with the car on the pit stand, it would run then sound like the gear mesh was WAY off, but it was not... The man himself looked over the motor and the end bell is what he changed out and how he explained it. It solved the problem...

This may not be you issue, but it is worth looking at....
Yes mine does sound like the gear mesh always off. I got a D3 and will the end bell fit on 3.5? The motor is less than a month will it cover under warranty?
Thanks bvoltz
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Old 07-06-2012, 08:51 AM   #207
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Yes mine does sound like the gear mesh always off. I got a D3 and will the end bell fit on 3.5? The motor is less than a month will it cover under warranty?
Thanks bvoltz
Yes to the end bell of the D3 to the D3.5, if this works then you know what the problem is. Also You can use the Pinion end bell also... I would do one at a time and find out if the issue is the bearing.... on either end....

If this is the issue, reach out to Trinity... I'm sure they will resolve the issue... They have always been a stand up company...
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:28 AM   #208
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any buddy running 17.5 blinkly one cell on oval carpet 130 run line
in need of roll out and amp draw thanks

Last edited by shadow76; 07-16-2012 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:51 PM   #209
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Is it me or this motor has to be geared to the moon to keep up with the rest?

Did a shakedown run with a 13.5 4.0FDR 15 timing on endbell.
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:49 AM   #210
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Im having great success with this motor, I'm a huge fan, I'm running 17.5 Boosted, have it geared at 5.8 with the timing at Max 20 Deg on the end bell, Motor is coming off at 65 Deg Cel.

I think people are afraid of utilising the timing of this, I was too and it was slow up until I went wild with the timing, as well as gearing it higher than I would a Duo 3
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