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Old 02-13-2005, 11:29 PM   #16
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Why soldering GUNS are bad:

They're heavy
You have to wait for them to heat up
Small contact area
Cumbersome.

I know some people have tried this iron

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307

and have found it to be identical to the Hakko. I would agree with impactplayer and have your first few packs built for you. I know Fusion does this, but didn't know ProMatch did, so thanks for the heads up. If you do decide to build your own packs and pick up the Deans jig, take a rotary tool and remove some material from the inside of the jig. The latest 3300's are longer than the 2000's that were around when the jig was designed/came out.
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Old 02-13-2005, 11:54 PM   #17
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Deans altered the jig quite a while ago to fit the newer cells... I doubt you would find a "old" one at your lhs anymore
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Old 02-13-2005, 11:56 PM   #18
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Good to know Otto, I didn't know that since my Jig is 5+ years old
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Old 02-14-2005, 09:49 AM   #19
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Old 02-14-2005, 10:01 AM   #20
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the deans battery jig is a wonderous tool, and if you want a cheap iorn, sears is where i would go, they have a 40 watt craftsman, or a 40 watt weller, both come with the big fat chissel tip, and get hott enough, i think i baught my craftsman for like 20 bucks
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Old 02-14-2005, 10:25 AM   #21
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Besides what was posted earlier, the trigger on any gun wears fast and all of a sudden your triing to hold the trigger at 1/2-3/4 just for the heat to stay on......

Simply put I have never seen of heard of any professional in any elewctronics feild that actually uses a gun for anything.....

Also stay away from seperate flux/solder combos, always go with a rosin core solder it just makes for much prettier joints...

Go with the absolutely thinnest solder you can get, thinner stuff melts a a much lower temperature and is easier to control.

Make sure you pretin everything a little on the bars and a huge bead on the cells.

Watch the shrink wrap on the cells if it starts to distort you have applied too much heat for too long.....


I still say get your packs assembled, it's just cheaper that way.... If you use plugs you can have them pre-installed and never have to buy a soldering iron, solder, bars or plugs... or jumper wires, extra shrink tubing...ect.....ect......ect.
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Old 02-14-2005, 11:50 AM   #22
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Default What not to do....

what not to do.. when soldering your own batteries...

http://www.taobracing.net/review_batterysoldering.shtml

get a weller 40W iron. its $15 at home depot. and spare tips come in a package of two for $5 or so...
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Old 02-14-2005, 01:40 PM   #23
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My battery building process:

Tools: 80W soldering iron, Deans battery building jig, battery bars, shrik wrap, connector (if necessary)

1. Shrink wrap each cell with clear shrink wrap designed for cells (use a hair dryer to shrink it on)
2. Using a dremel, scuff the surface on the + and - of each cell. Just scuff the surface lightly, you do not want to wreck the cell.
3. Place all the cells in proper alignment to fit your car in a Dean battery building jig. (A battery building jig is a MUST)
4. Tin all the cells on the + and the - (just a small "glob" will do, make sure it melts evenly over the surface you scuffed up. leave the iron on for as little time as possible)
5. Tin each battery bar.
6. Place the bar between the cell and hold down with plyers, apply the iron just long enough to melt the solder, don't move it, let it harden.
7. Add you connector or direct solder tab using a battery bar.
8. Once the pack is assembled place a small amount of shoo-goo between the cells, this will hold them together.
8. Charge it up and let-er rip.
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Old 02-14-2005, 03:01 PM   #24
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I picked up an 80w iron at Canadian Tire for $30 cdn, comes with 2 chisel tips, and solders bars on within 2 seconds.
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Old 02-14-2005, 05:48 PM   #25
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Default Re: What not to do....

Quote:
Originally posted by Hebiki
what not to do.. when soldering your own batteries...

http://www.taobracing.net/review_batterysoldering.shtml

get a weller 40W iron. its $15 at home depot. and spare tips come in a package of two for $5 or so...
wow that soldering job is massively haggard thats just unexscusable!
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Old 02-14-2005, 05:50 PM   #26
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Default Re: Re: What not to do....

Quote:
Originally posted by kh15
wow that soldering job is massively haggard thats just unexscusable!


i look back at that battery now and laugh. good times!
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Old 02-14-2005, 05:56 PM   #27
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bring a whole new meaning to learning from experience
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Old 02-14-2005, 07:13 PM   #28
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well thanks guyz.....its just that im on a limited budget...as everyone says "mow lawns" but...practically everyone in my neighborhood has gardeners...so that doesnt really help...but watever thats not the thing.....im trying to find a good soldering station that is low priced. plus earlier....i just couldnt see waht was wrong with it..but i guess i can see it now...im not worried about the deans plugs...im for sure going to get that battery jig..and deans battery bars...or wahtever people recommened...hmmm how many degrees *F do you need anyways? i think 40w is enough? well if any of you find a great deal, make sure to post! thanks alot guys.

o yeh...im trying to find a STATION because my dad thinks that its better because i forget to unplug the soldering iron..
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Old 02-14-2005, 07:17 PM   #29
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Just remember... Wattage doesn't necessarily equal temperature.

Wattage is more a measure of "How much heatmass" something can heat up in a given time.

To keep it simple though, just go for a good 40Watt iron.

I have a good Lenk setup with spring cradle I can sell you for only $15.00 + shipping if you like. It's what I used for the last 3 years...it does Batts good, but my station is simply MUCH better.
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Old 02-14-2005, 11:24 PM   #30
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You don't need a $100 iron to do batteries. Heck, my Hakko does an ok job on batteries, but this does a WAAAY better job for $24.95. Now its next to useless for anything else in the RC world because its to big and cumbersome, but if you wanna do batteries it ROCKS.

Edit: apparently the link won't work correctly.... go to www.homedepot.com and search for Weller. Its the 80 watt iron.
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