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Old 01-05-2013, 02:43 PM   #271
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So I was bored and figured I would try it 2wd so I pulled the camber links and took out the front dogbones, from the eye it seems a bit faster top speed but a little slower on take off. no wheel spin when going to about 3/4 throttle from a stop though. still on the 7.2 though. Will test handling later... Oh and had drift wheels first, all it did was spin.
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:57 PM   #272
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:43 PM   #273
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Originally Posted by bobbyb323 View Post
I originally shimmed the stock steering but bought HPI #86005 steering for the Sprint 1.
I had to shave .75mm off the lower spacers and install four 8x5x2.5mm bearings but it fits perfectly, it's very tight and all the slop is gone.
I put 3x10mm screws on the top of the aluminum steering posts.


I just scored me one of these rare dogs...
Sprint (Version I) Steering parts HPI86005


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Old 01-06-2013, 04:13 PM   #274
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Nice on the S1 parts. I did the plastic bag steering mod and now the servo won't return the front wheels straight... I am not sure what to do...
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:39 PM   #275
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who tried on sprint 2 double cvd?
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:53 PM   #276
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Originally Posted by SNIPER95 View Post
who tried on sprint 2 double cvd?

I am using a set of HPI 68198 UNIVERSAL DOGBONES on my fronts:



http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...ns&pn=HPI86198

But I still use a spring in the diff cup...

Soon to added to the rear, as well.

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Old 01-06-2013, 09:58 PM   #277
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Originally Posted by Slobalt7 View Post
Nice on the S1 parts. I did the plastic bag steering mod and now the servo won't return the front wheels straight... I am not sure what to do...

What did you use?
What did you do?


Don't use heavy duty Zip Lock bag =
Has to be standard bag
Bag should be .0015" thick
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:30 PM   #278
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I used an HD, the big ass gallon size. I see the error of my ways, I put it under the ball cap link thingies on both outer steering links(total of four pieces), and all four camber links which I don't believe would matter with steering. I did not do it to the center link because I plan on throwing a spring in there like the guy did a few pages back. As of right now I am at a stand still until my parts come in from Asiatees but I did get my second belt tensioner in along with my short screws since mine came(factory) missing all three that mount the engine mount to the rear suspension mount/brace thing and the aluminum brace that crosses just behind the motor.
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:15 AM   #279
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Marv, have you or anyone else tried adding any weights to the front of the car just under the ackerman rod or adding spacers to the inner camber links to try and get any more steering out of this car?
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:52 AM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruzecontrol88 View Post
Marv, have you or anyone else tried adding any weights to the front of the car just under the ackerman rod or adding spacers to the inner camber links to try and get any more steering out of this car?
What I have done was to add golf club head weights (held on with electrical tape) to the body in the front on the side of each fender and under the hood on each side and that worked for me.


I am awaiting stiffer springs so I can play around with those.

I have also ground back the steering stops on the C blocks (described in earlier posts) and have set my toe to -1

If you're feeling froggy, you can move your lower front shock locations to B =
This will stand the shock up / change the way it acts and give your front wheels more room to turn (provided you trimmed back the steering stops).

Some brave souls have notched out their steering hub arms rather than trim back the stops...

Personally, I did that to see what it looked like... and it looks damned flimsy.
I don't recommend it unless you know you're not gonna smack something real hard some day.

I haven't messed with my camber links.

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Old 01-08-2013, 08:01 PM   #281
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This may be a dumb question but how do you get the esc and steering servo plugs out of the "waterproof" box? Mine are way too fat.

Edit, I am a moron, didn't realize the gasket popped out of the box.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:12 PM   #282
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found this thread the other day, lots of great info. i just picked up a sprint 2 drift last week to replace my tamiya tl-01 i had as a drift car. im happy so far with it, aside from the steering slop. i honestly dont know how hpi can sell cars with that much slop. my nitro rs4 2 had huge amounts of slop (really the same steering bellcrank design), my pro 3 had huge slop, my savage was terrible, and now this thing.

i followed the advice on rpm ballcups, that fixed a lot of it. i took a little different route on the bellcranks. i built my own bellcrank post on the left side, it now extends to the top plate, and i built a spacer to more the top bearing up in the bellcrank, this makes it more rigid. i then made another spacer that goes between the top plate and the top bearing and thats what holds it all together. on the other side i got rid of the e-clip on the top and made a spacer to hold the bellcrank down, this tightened it up a little, however the steering posts still moves around a bit. im looking into what it would take to get bearings into the bellcrank on the right side, im considering losing the servo saver and running a kimbrough servo saver mounted on the servo. this will allow me to machine a different tube to put bearings into.

im working on a belt tensioner for the rear belt right now. im running it on the bottom of the belt so it will push the belt up, this will stop it from rubbing on the motor can.

ill try to get some pics of my mods tonight.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:53 PM   #283
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Check the belt lift mod on the first page, the guess work is done for your front belt my friend.
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:29 PM   #284
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i had another idea however its not going to work out. ill need to order some 3x6 bearings for that style belt guide
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:26 AM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv View Post
What I have done was to add golf club head weights (held on with electrical tape) to the body in the front on the side of each fender and under the hood on each side and that worked for me.


I am awaiting stiffer springs so I can play around with those.

I have also ground back the steering stops on the C blocks (described in earlier posts) and have set my toe to -1

If you're feeling froggy, you can move your lower front shock locations to B =
This will stand the shock up / change the way it acts and give your front wheels more room to turn (provided you trimmed back the steering stops).

Some brave souls have notched out their steering hub arms rather than trim back the stops...

Personally, I did that to see what it looked like... and it looks damned flimsy.
I don't recommend it unless you know you're not gonna smack something real hard some day.

I haven't messed with my camber links.


Thank you for the input Marv
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