HPI Sprint 2 Mods
#391
Just when holding chassis in one hand and give a spin on one of the rear tires (the other goes the opposite direction) it will do 3 or more revolutions on it's own before it stops, the front if ya give her a spin stops almost as soon as you take your hand off it.
Just seems wierd to me the 2 are so different and all stock, no mods yet
i came accross the thread for the trans am body pics, man there are some beautiful cars in that thread and saw marv's silk purse 70 mustang.
A friend i run in the parking lot with just did a 70 boss and the first run he ever did with the body his steering went haywire and it made a sharp left and slammed into another guys boot and that poor brand new boss has a pretty bad wrinkle in it now, i felt so bad for all the work he did on that sweet body, and now he has broken everything on the left front suspension
Just seems wierd to me the 2 are so different and all stock, no mods yet
i came accross the thread for the trans am body pics, man there are some beautiful cars in that thread and saw marv's silk purse 70 mustang.
A friend i run in the parking lot with just did a 70 boss and the first run he ever did with the body his steering went haywire and it made a sharp left and slammed into another guys boot and that poor brand new boss has a pretty bad wrinkle in it now, i felt so bad for all the work he did on that sweet body, and now he has broken everything on the left front suspension
#392
i have been running an e-bay body lately, 66 mustang fastback i got for 14 bucks it has some damage on both front corners and my spacers are a bit to wide on the rear but i lost the factory wheel nut the last run so i had to use the spacers till i get the new nuts for spares, kinda reminds me of cars back then all jacked up in the rear with wide cragars on 'em
We just do big nascar type ovals in a huge unused parking lot but man we get some damage, my first run with the fastback it hit a small piece of gravel and flipped 4 or 5 times then landed on it's wheels. vintage tires dont last long on parking lot pavement either, i had to get a new set of rubber in 3 months of sunday evening runs.
Beginning to think it would be safer to enter it in real races but there are none in our area.
I had broken my 6 degree front left c-hub and put on the 4 degree ones that came in the kit but for parkinglot runs they dont work, it spins out so easy in turns now so gotta get the 6 degree ones back on it.
We just do big nascar type ovals in a huge unused parking lot but man we get some damage, my first run with the fastback it hit a small piece of gravel and flipped 4 or 5 times then landed on it's wheels. vintage tires dont last long on parking lot pavement either, i had to get a new set of rubber in 3 months of sunday evening runs.
Beginning to think it would be safer to enter it in real races but there are none in our area.
I had broken my 6 degree front left c-hub and put on the 4 degree ones that came in the kit but for parkinglot runs they dont work, it spins out so easy in turns now so gotta get the 6 degree ones back on it.
#393
Tech Apprentice
Yeah mine was green but my buddy's e-10 had red in his diffs. Another of my friends says when he took his apart it had an "orangy-red" colored greases2s in his . I am assuming they were all different weights, can't fathom why they would make them have rainbow grease in the diffs.
#394
Just when holding chassis in one hand and give a spin on one of the rear tires (the other goes the opposite direction) it will do 3 or more revolutions on it's own before it stops, the front if ya give her a spin stops almost as soon as you take your hand off it.
I have front & rear belt tensioners, a belt lifter with taller bearings and a spring in my front diff and I get about 1/2 spin for front and same for rear...
Just seems wierd to me the 2 are so different and all stock, no mods yet
There's less resistance on the rear diff =
The front diff has longer belt and a belt tensioner / your rear belt is shorter and has no tensioner...
i came accross the thread for the trans am body pics, man there are some beautiful cars in that thread and saw marv's silk purse 70 mustang.
I haven't run that one yet -
I slipped trimming it and wound up lopping off the front spoiler...
A friend i run in the parking lot with just did a 70 boss and the first run he ever did with the body his steering went haywire and it made a sharp left
If he was running a S2 with original servo = GET RID OF IT! =
Several people have experienced crap out of the box OEM servos!
A Spectrum Radio or a digital servo =
Use a glitch buster = http://www.rctech.net/forum/11063074-post78.html
If you want a body to last you have basically three options:
1) Don't use it
2) Learn how to not hit anything when you're driving
3) Armor the crap out of it
I'm a #1 & #3 type guy, working hard on #2 =
I just went to the eye doctor last Friday and should have a new pair of glasses in a week...
I also bout a small step stool for user at Westgate in hopes of seeing my car on the other side of the gym before I hit anything =
There's no elevated driver's stand @ Westgate...
My OEM HPI 69 Camaro body (armored) has survived no less than 9 qualifiers and 23 B Mains @ Westgate...
The Pagani knockoff has 2Q's & Five B-Mains on it (armored)...
The knockoff Pagani is going back on the S2 this Friday -
I've done a boat load of work to balance out my S2 -
Anyone considering a knockoff Pagani from R2Hobbies should know that if you turtle it =
Your spur gear will cut into the body...
I cut a hole for all around clearance where mine was hitting =
and slammed into another guys boot and that poor brand new boss has a pretty bad wrinkle in it now, i felt so bad for all the work he did on that sweet body, and now he has broken everything on the left front suspension
I have front & rear belt tensioners, a belt lifter with taller bearings and a spring in my front diff and I get about 1/2 spin for front and same for rear...
Just seems wierd to me the 2 are so different and all stock, no mods yet
There's less resistance on the rear diff =
The front diff has longer belt and a belt tensioner / your rear belt is shorter and has no tensioner...
i came accross the thread for the trans am body pics, man there are some beautiful cars in that thread and saw marv's silk purse 70 mustang.
I haven't run that one yet -
I slipped trimming it and wound up lopping off the front spoiler...
A friend i run in the parking lot with just did a 70 boss and the first run he ever did with the body his steering went haywire and it made a sharp left
If he was running a S2 with original servo = GET RID OF IT! =
Several people have experienced crap out of the box OEM servos!
A Spectrum Radio or a digital servo =
Use a glitch buster = http://www.rctech.net/forum/11063074-post78.html
If you want a body to last you have basically three options:
1) Don't use it
2) Learn how to not hit anything when you're driving
3) Armor the crap out of it
I'm a #1 & #3 type guy, working hard on #2 =
I just went to the eye doctor last Friday and should have a new pair of glasses in a week...
I also bout a small step stool for user at Westgate in hopes of seeing my car on the other side of the gym before I hit anything =
There's no elevated driver's stand @ Westgate...
My OEM HPI 69 Camaro body (armored) has survived no less than 9 qualifiers and 23 B Mains @ Westgate...
The Pagani knockoff has 2Q's & Five B-Mains on it (armored)...
The knockoff Pagani is going back on the S2 this Friday -
I've done a boat load of work to balance out my S2 -
Anyone considering a knockoff Pagani from R2Hobbies should know that if you turtle it =
Your spur gear will cut into the body...
I cut a hole for all around clearance where mine was hitting =
and slammed into another guys boot and that poor brand new boss has a pretty bad wrinkle in it now, i felt so bad for all the work he did on that sweet body, and now he has broken everything on the left front suspension
Fitting the foam bumper to the 70 Mustang is critical -
Also the 70 'stang is notorious for having a weak nose / thinner lexan =
This makes armoring a must for survivability (IMAO)
I have a new custom painted 68 Camaro coming for the Scale Nats -
But after seeing the pictures the painter sent me =
I may just shelf the new one & run my 69 Camaro (215-220gr PANZER TANK)
#395
What do you guys have your ride height set at?
#397
I have both types - But this one is very hard to find =
HPI72215 =
This came as a diff tuning kit for the RS4 Nitro line (same diff back them as electric)
I back the spring ends with HPI72111 SHIM(S) =
This increasesspring preload
Brit Site has a bunch in stock = http://www.hpirchobby.com/hpi-gear-d...15-p-5004.html
Attachment 1034889
This one is available on the net
The spring itself is different in wire thickness an overall length
I think I have a diff with one of these in it as well
I have a number of diffs....
HPI87023
Attachment 1034891
I'm not the expert -
For now, I prefer using the spring method =
Less mess...
The spring is constant = won't be affected by heat/cold as much a diff oil is (IMAO)
HPI72215 =
This came as a diff tuning kit for the RS4 Nitro line (same diff back them as electric)
I back the spring ends with HPI72111 SHIM(S) =
This increasesspring preload
Brit Site has a bunch in stock = http://www.hpirchobby.com/hpi-gear-d...15-p-5004.html
Attachment 1034889
This one is available on the net
The spring itself is different in wire thickness an overall length
I think I have a diff with one of these in it as well
I have a number of diffs....
HPI87023
Attachment 1034891
I'm not the expert -
For now, I prefer using the spring method =
Less mess...
The spring is constant = won't be affected by heat/cold as much a diff oil is (IMAO)
Last edited by Marv; 02-27-2013 at 08:40 PM.
#398
So I raced with my Sport for the first time, and I ran red springs in front and silver springs in the rear. Ran 6mm of ride height all the way around.
Im running 2 degrees of camber all the way around. And the car understeered like freaking crazy, and then when I let off it would just spin. I know I need to even out the rates a little more, but here is the issue. I am still running my 15turn rtr motor, and I dont know whether I should just run the red spring all the way around, or drop the front rates to silvers as well.
when i had my stock setup it seemed like the tail end would want to kick out but it held itself there, and did a rather good job. I have 40wt oil in my shocks all the way around.
I also havent messed with my diff yet. But I feel like I should do one thing at a time.
Im running 2 degrees of camber all the way around. And the car understeered like freaking crazy, and then when I let off it would just spin. I know I need to even out the rates a little more, but here is the issue. I am still running my 15turn rtr motor, and I dont know whether I should just run the red spring all the way around, or drop the front rates to silvers as well.
when i had my stock setup it seemed like the tail end would want to kick out but it held itself there, and did a rather good job. I have 40wt oil in my shocks all the way around.
I also havent messed with my diff yet. But I feel like I should do one thing at a time.
#399
First things first =
The S2 is ASS HEAVY =
The weight is not balanced from front to rear =
The battery is too far back =
Less front traction
On the vinyl gym floor I'm running softer springs up front than than in the rear
Which red springs?
HPI (on this chart anyway) has THREE different red springs with different weights...
What are you running on?
Carpet?
Asphalt?
The S2 is ASS HEAVY =
The weight is not balanced from front to rear =
The battery is too far back =
Less front traction
On the vinyl gym floor I'm running softer springs up front than than in the rear
Which red springs?
HPI (on this chart anyway) has THREE different red springs with different weights...
What are you running on?
Carpet?
Asphalt?
#400
I'm running the pro 4 springs. So 22.4lbs and 16.9lbs in the rear. I'm running on asphalt, and it's fairly tacky. Here is the thing, when I ran the car with the stock springs the car almost seemed like it was drifting the whole course. The tail end was kicked out but te front end held it's ground well, so it was fairly easy to drive. It didn't spin out, it just seemed like the front end was pulling the rear en around. I figured my cornering speed would increase if all four wheels were planted so I softened up the rear. I may be wrong so if you have a better setup please share.
All in all I feel this car can be fairly competitive just fine tuning the setup.
All in all I feel this car can be fairly competitive just fine tuning the setup.
#401
Square one / Back to the basics =
Is you Sprint new? (Sprint 2)
Or is it used?
Is you Sprint the Sport model or other?
Did you change anything else on the car from the OEM settings other than the springs and shock oil?
+1 on the only doing one thing at a time.
Please post a copy of your original setup sheet (before you changed anything) and your current setup sheet =
PM sent...
Is you Sprint new? (Sprint 2)
Or is it used?
Is you Sprint the Sport model or other?
Did you change anything else on the car from the OEM settings other than the springs and shock oil?
+1 on the only doing one thing at a time.
Please post a copy of your original setup sheet (before you changed anything) and your current setup sheet =
PM sent...
Last edited by Marv; 02-28-2013 at 09:05 AM.
#403
http://www.rcplanet.com/ProductDetai...FQo3nAodyAgApw
This is what I purchased (brand new). I did not do anything to the car except the shocks and springs.
This is what I purchased (brand new). I did not do anything to the car except the shocks and springs.
#404
http://www.rcplanet.com/ProductDetai...FQo3nAodyAgApw
This is what I purchased (brand new). I did not do anything to the car except the shocks and springs.
This is what I purchased (brand new). I did not do anything to the car except the shocks and springs.
So you changed the spring and the shocks?
Which shocks did you change to (so I can search out springs) =
Pro4 springs have a slightly larger inner diameter than the OEM springs)...
And less weight ranges to choose from (from what I've read so far)...
#405
Sorry for the confusion. the shocks are stock, I just changed the weight of oil in it. Im running 40wt all the way around.
The springs fit perfect into the shocks. (perches)
The tires Im using are Sorex 36's. I dont know if it matters but Im running an HPI Silvia S15 body.
I have every single spring from the HPI Pro 4, plus every Hotbodies hara spring, as well as Team associated, so I have a plethora of springs to choose from. I was reading somewhere that this spring rate setup was a good base to start with, which doesnt work at all for my track. The stock spring setup def felt better.
The springs fit perfect into the shocks. (perches)
The tires Im using are Sorex 36's. I dont know if it matters but Im running an HPI Silvia S15 body.
I have every single spring from the HPI Pro 4, plus every Hotbodies hara spring, as well as Team associated, so I have a plethora of springs to choose from. I was reading somewhere that this spring rate setup was a good base to start with, which doesnt work at all for my track. The stock spring setup def felt better.