Tekin rs pro is Killing me
#1
Tekin rs pro is Killing me
Hello Guy's
Looking for help if I may.
I brought one of these abit over a month ago, Hooked it up as a Brushed mode
and went into calibration mode and then the ESC Smoked up.
SO I contacted Randy and it was Replaced.
100% Happy
NOW
I have received the New ESC and have only connected it up last night.
After installing everything, I hooked t he 2 battery wires to the lipo and turn the switch on.
The cap was rather warm to a slight hot. ( thought this was strange )
So looked at Manual and indicated that the Blue Moon was to go on the Negative battery side.
Ok all looks fine.
Go into Calibration mode, Neutral beep, Full Throttle BANG
The cap Blew. FFS
So I took pictures and sent them again into Tekin.
I was told that maybe the Cap was a dud.
Get another cap 16v 330uf and see what happens next.
So I went to our local Elec shop and purchase 2 (this time) 16v 330uf Jamicon Cap and connected it
again to the ESC.
This time the cap seems very cool. Nice
Going into Calibration mode again, Hold 3 seconds, Neutral beep, Full Throttle, Beep,
Full Break Beep.
Neutral.
Led light up 1,4,7 quick
then a slow flashed of 1 and 4.
Apply Throttle and nothing at the Engine, No Forward.
I Hear a High Hum as I apply the Throttle from the ESC and all leds move from left to right. ) to 100%
same as Break.
So what the heck do i do now?
Or have I missed something.
The engine is 100% fine as I tested another motor also ( new) with the ESC.
Same result.
Need help
Looking for help if I may.
I brought one of these abit over a month ago, Hooked it up as a Brushed mode
and went into calibration mode and then the ESC Smoked up.
SO I contacted Randy and it was Replaced.
100% Happy
NOW
I have received the New ESC and have only connected it up last night.
After installing everything, I hooked t he 2 battery wires to the lipo and turn the switch on.
The cap was rather warm to a slight hot. ( thought this was strange )
So looked at Manual and indicated that the Blue Moon was to go on the Negative battery side.
Ok all looks fine.
Go into Calibration mode, Neutral beep, Full Throttle BANG
The cap Blew. FFS
So I took pictures and sent them again into Tekin.
I was told that maybe the Cap was a dud.
Get another cap 16v 330uf and see what happens next.
So I went to our local Elec shop and purchase 2 (this time) 16v 330uf Jamicon Cap and connected it
again to the ESC.
This time the cap seems very cool. Nice
Going into Calibration mode again, Hold 3 seconds, Neutral beep, Full Throttle, Beep,
Full Break Beep.
Neutral.
Led light up 1,4,7 quick
then a slow flashed of 1 and 4.
Apply Throttle and nothing at the Engine, No Forward.
I Hear a High Hum as I apply the Throttle from the ESC and all leds move from left to right. ) to 100%
same as Break.
So what the heck do i do now?
Or have I missed something.
The engine is 100% fine as I tested another motor also ( new) with the ESC.
Same result.
Need help
Last edited by Rcnutguy; 04-20-2012 at 01:56 AM.
#3
fwd + brk
I went by the manual that is shown in Fig 7
A,B,C to Black wire to - Motor
Red Positive wire split to Battery and Positive Battery
and Negative wire from Battery to Neg ESC.
I went by the manual that is shown in Fig 7
A,B,C to Black wire to - Motor
Red Positive wire split to Battery and Positive Battery
and Negative wire from Battery to Neg ESC.
Last edited by Rcnutguy; 04-20-2012 at 07:42 AM. Reason: Had Battery by mistake
#4
Ok Dumb Question
When Connecting the ESC
You choose Mode and Press 6 times ( MT ) on the ESC
Then I guess you hit the Inc and press until 4 leds are on? (meaning Forward and Break only selected)
The Calibrate with the Holding 3 secs Neutral full throttle then Full Break
Esc Process completed.
This is what I make out of the manual.
Unless I missed something
When Connecting the ESC
You choose Mode and Press 6 times ( MT ) on the ESC
Then I guess you hit the Inc and press until 4 leds are on? (meaning Forward and Break only selected)
The Calibrate with the Holding 3 secs Neutral full throttle then Full Break
Esc Process completed.
This is what I make out of the manual.
Unless I missed something
#6
Tech Adept
You also need to calibrate without anything connected at the ESC first. Unplug everything and then calibrate like it says in the manual
#7
Tried that too Foodie.
Desoldered the wires from the Motor, and Calibrated again.
Still no Forward
Kaifd3s
Hotwire? Why do i need this, Thought that purchasing one of these,
that is meant to be one of the top of its kind would be the way to go.
But I keep on seeming to have problems with it.
Do not see why I need to purchase more things to get it to work.
Desoldered the wires from the Motor, and Calibrated again.
Still no Forward
Kaifd3s
Hotwire? Why do i need this, Thought that purchasing one of these,
that is meant to be one of the top of its kind would be the way to go.
But I keep on seeming to have problems with it.
Do not see why I need to purchase more things to get it to work.
#9
But sending back and forth is starting to cost more than its worth.
Its the loss of another 2 to 3 week turn around, That's the killer.
P.s I brought this think it would be the bast for my 540 and have an open option later on
when i get used to racing.
#10
Did you reverse the servo direction in your radio? Some radios need to have the servo direction set to reverse for the Tekin ESC. Then, re-calibrate.
#12
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
I see a few problems, your using brushed mode on a brushless esc, not that there's anything wrong with that, but Tekin still makes a phenomenal brushed controller for less than half the price of an RS Pro.
other thing is the lack of a hotwire, just spend the extra cash and get a hotwire, it'll make all this much easier
other thing is the lack of a hotwire, just spend the extra cash and get a hotwire, it'll make all this much easier
#13
I see a few problems, your using brushed mode on a brushless esc, not that there's anything wrong with that, but Tekin still makes a phenomenal brushed controller for less than half the price of an RS Pro.
other thing is the lack of a hotwire, just spend the extra cash and get a hotwire, it'll make all this much easier
other thing is the lack of a hotwire, just spend the extra cash and get a hotwire, it'll make all this much easier
and I have it hooked up as a Brushed mode due to running a 540 Johnson
As for Hotwire, how will that fix my problem?
Last edited by Rcnutguy; 04-20-2012 at 06:09 AM.
#14
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
i would rather just used a brushed ESC for a brushed motor, a BL ESC for a BL motor. of course a brushess ESC can work on brushed motor, but just wont work as well. as for the RS pro, i cant advise you there. i still keep my LRP V7.1 and still works great eventhough its already more than 10 years old.