2LikesTamiya F104 Version 2
07-23-2013, 02:15 AM
#1336
Tamiya's term for the steering arm / knuckle is the "steering upright".
The setup sheet shows 3 different "upright's".
The upright that comes with the kit is shown near the front right wheel. It has 2 holes for the ball to be screwed into. The manual recommends the hole closest to the rear of the car. My setup uses the hole closest to the front of the car. The effect of this is to increase the ackermann angle of the steering. You can read about the effect of increasing ackermann here: http://www.rctek.com/technical/handl...principle.html
The other two "upright's" on the setup sheet are a hop-up item and have a third hole for the ball which is between the two holes on the kit upright.
Originally Posted by cadman1981
What does changing the angle of the shock do to the car? i'm using the TRF damper, i can't find the piece/part to make it longer like the stock shock.
Is it like on a 4wd touring? the more angle for more traction?
Is it like on a 4wd touring? the more angle for more traction?
Fred - if I'm misquoting you feel free to PM me with hate mail
Perhaps someone else can answer your question about the TRF shock. I use the kit shock.
As with all setups I don't recommend just copying it. There may be things on your car that are different to mine eg; the TRF shock. And your track temp and conditions will be different to mine. I suggest looking at my setup and saying to yourself "wow, if this guy is telling the truth then I should be able to overcome the lack of steering with the R1's just by changing my setup, so I'm going to take my existing setup and make one change at a time in the order that he's suggested and see what happens".
Good luck.
07-25-2013, 01:52 PM
#1338
Into it's 10th race
Getting better all the time 
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Cheers!
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[/IMG]Cheers!
07-25-2013, 02:21 PM
#1339
Ferrai F2012 F104
Hi, Just completed the F2012 and the body is the hardest I have ever built.
However I think it came out nice enough for me. Regards
Norman2
However I think it came out nice enough for me. Regards
Norman2
07-30-2013, 09:03 AM
#1340
So i took appart my car last night to clean it up and re-build it, i noticed my rear pod wasn't as loose as when i built it last time... Is this normal? Should i rebult it after each race regardless? I did have one or 2 bad crashes, maybe the pod shifted...
I am doing minor tweaks to my setup, reversed the battery so the bullet connecters are under the shock, shorter wires, less weight.
I also re-installed the Carbon rear shaft instead of the metal one to help with the car's rear weight.
Lengthened my TRF shock, and i got these - http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1586 for the "extra soft" springs.
I also noticed something really dumb on my part: i couldn't get the Shimizu 571 tires to hook up, but the 579s worked really well, the only differences were the rims. The 571s had Tamiya Foam rims, and the 579s had Exotek rims - I forgot to drill holes for the air on the tamiya rims!! D'OH!
I am doing minor tweaks to my setup, reversed the battery so the bullet connecters are under the shock, shorter wires, less weight.
I also re-installed the Carbon rear shaft instead of the metal one to help with the car's rear weight.
Lengthened my TRF shock, and i got these - http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1586 for the "extra soft" springs.
I also noticed something really dumb on my part: i couldn't get the Shimizu 571 tires to hook up, but the 579s worked really well, the only differences were the rims. The 571s had Tamiya Foam rims, and the 579s had Exotek rims - I forgot to drill holes for the air on the tamiya rims!! D'OH!
07-30-2013, 11:54 PM
#1341
Hi!
Regarding using a shorty lipo i an F104 v2.
Is there a consensus about which is better: Placing the battery in the front, or in the back og the car?
I'm about to assemble my first 104, and it would be nice to have the electronics installed right the first time ;-)
Cheers,
Peter
Regarding using a shorty lipo i an F104 v2.
Is there a consensus about which is better: Placing the battery in the front, or in the back og the car?
I'm about to assemble my first 104, and it would be nice to have the electronics installed right the first time ;-)
Cheers,
Peter
07-31-2013, 03:42 AM
#1342
Hi!
Regarding using a shorty lipo i an F104 v2.
Is there a consensus about which is better: Placing the battery in the front, or in the back og the car?
I'm about to assemble my first 104, and it would be nice to have the electronics installed right the first time ;-)
Cheers,
Peter
Regarding using a shorty lipo i an F104 v2.
Is there a consensus about which is better: Placing the battery in the front, or in the back og the car?
I'm about to assemble my first 104, and it would be nice to have the electronics installed right the first time ;-)
Cheers,
Peter
My ESC and receiver go on the outside of the battery.
OK I know it is not a F104V2 but it is a very similar car.
We run 13.5T motors on an outdoor track, with a 50 meter straight.
07-31-2013, 04:29 AM
#1343
Battery forward...
[QUOTE=Peter $;12399966]Hi!
Regarding using a shorty lipo i an F104 v2.
Is there a consensus about which is better: Placing the battery in the front, or in the back og the car?
I'm about to assemble my first 104, and it would be nice to have the electronics installed right the first time ;-)
Cheers,
Peter[/QUOT [/I] Peter I own a F1R and a Pro4 VII, I am running rubber tire carpet. Both cars are set up with the speedo in the back, battery in the middle, and the receiver behind the servo, (shorty 2cell pack). this gives me room to move the battery forward and back for chassis tuning. I am trying send a picture, I hope it works
Regarding using a shorty lipo i an F104 v2.
Is there a consensus about which is better: Placing the battery in the front, or in the back og the car?
I'm about to assemble my first 104, and it would be nice to have the electronics installed right the first time ;-)
Cheers,
Peter[/QUOT [/I] Peter I own a F1R and a Pro4 VII, I am running rubber tire carpet. Both cars are set up with the speedo in the back, battery in the middle, and the receiver behind the servo, (shorty 2cell pack). this gives me room to move the battery forward and back for chassis tuning. I am trying send a picture, I hope it works
07-31-2013, 04:39 AM
#1344
@ tudor_47 & TWILL: Thanks for your replies. Can the battery stay in place, just by taping it? If so it would make sense to make room for the battery to be able to slide back and forward, according to the track.
I will (most likely) be driving on foam on carpet, with a Silvercan motor (unless they change the rules for the indoor season).
Cheers,
P
I will (most likely) be driving on foam on carpet, with a Silvercan motor (unless they change the rules for the indoor season).
Cheers,
P
07-31-2013, 05:42 AM
#1345
I run 21.5, rubber on both carpet and asphalt. Shorty is against the servo, esc and receiver are towards the back all in line. From the "football" forward, ESC, Receiver, battery. Battery is taped in.
07-31-2013, 05:42 AM
#1346
Taping is a good idea!
Peter, I just tape my battery in the car, but make sure that you file the chassis where the tape goes through so the edges aren't sharp. I try to run two pieces of tape just in case one breaks. One in front of the other. The other thing you can do is put a small piece of servo tape under the battery to hold it in place and then tape them in.
08-01-2013, 11:27 AM
#1347
Wow - that's a hot track. In Melbourne I've run up to about 55C track temp and I ran Ride R1 rears and PS fronts. The Ride R1's are a fantastic hot weather tyre but I only recently invested the time to make the front's turn in. Attached is the setup which had good rear grip and good steering.
The changes I made are listed in the notes field with the changes listed in the order of biggest impact to the smallest impact (which is the order I recommend you try the changes).
While this testing was done on a relatively cold 20C track I am hoping that they will still work as well on a hot track. The hotter track should give more grip for the R1's. If the front has more grip relative to the rear because of the track temp then you might not need to completely remove the spacer under the rear of the Pitch Damper but start by doing that and if you have too much steering try adding some spacers back.
PDF setup sheet issues - When I PDF'd the setup sheet it changed ticks in boxes to a "4" in the box. Also there is a number "3" on the right hand side of the chassis and a "1.5" on the left hand side. Ignore it - a bug in the setup sheet PDF.
Cheers
The changes I made are listed in the notes field with the changes listed in the order of biggest impact to the smallest impact (which is the order I recommend you try the changes).
While this testing was done on a relatively cold 20C track I am hoping that they will still work as well on a hot track. The hotter track should give more grip for the R1's. If the front has more grip relative to the rear because of the track temp then you might not need to completely remove the spacer under the rear of the Pitch Damper but start by doing that and if you have too much steering try adding some spacers back.
PDF setup sheet issues - When I PDF'd the setup sheet it changed ticks in boxes to a "4" in the box. Also there is a number "3" on the right hand side of the chassis and a "1.5" on the left hand side. Ignore it - a bug in the setup sheet PDF.
Cheers
08-05-2013, 06:07 PM
#1349
Have a look at David's car on this page: http://www.rcformula1.com.au/index.p...-carpet-setups
I'm sure he'll confirm, but I don't think he changes the core battery/ESC layout from track to track...
I'm sure he'll confirm, but I don't think he changes the core battery/ESC layout from track to track...
08-06-2013, 07:14 AM
#1350
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
Hey guys I have an issue with the rear inside tire lifting on corners. I have played with changing the tube lube from 10-20-30-50k with soft medium and hard side spring combinations and it did nothing to fix the problem. I am running on high grip carpet on pardus tires. Any ideas?