Tamiya F104 Version 2
#1246
addicted2blue, I already use the trick of sandpaper to the plates of diff, but I use the translator does not know properly interprętr the rest of your sentence. Would you have a picture that shows what you mean? here help me much because I'm also looking for a perfect diff.
for information, I am currently using the Associated white grease for the diff, I do not know what is that of Tamiya.
for information, I am currently using the Associated white grease for the diff, I do not know what is that of Tamiya.
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#1247
Tech Initiate
yes, I use it, the one for the diff in the Asso brand. but what interests me, and my translator does not know interpret, this is the second part of the answer
<< Just sand down the diff plates by using some 1000 and 1200 sand paper and use some 3mm ceramic diff balls and a one-piece thrust bearing instead of the regular 1150 ball bearing that's located in the diff outdrive. This will make your diff very smooth
All this is used with a alu F104 diff >>
<< Just sand down the diff plates by using some 1000 and 1200 sand paper and use some 3mm ceramic diff balls and a one-piece thrust bearing instead of the regular 1150 ball bearing that's located in the diff outdrive. This will make your diff very smooth
All this is used with a alu F104 diff >>
#1248
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
X1 is good upgrade. (I would get the chassis also, pro has carbon lower deck and x1 uses fiberglass witch has more grip on 104 v1).
-but just the x1 kit(top deck and dampner) will make it better. -and 1.3 or more flexible t-bar. (tamiya hi-traction t-bar is great but they do not last too long)
3racing 1.3mm is ok.
Converting to V2 alot more parts are needed. (new kit will most likely be cheaper)
I sold my F104pro and got v2 to replace it , maybe you could do the same?
-but just the x1 kit(top deck and dampner) will make it better. -and 1.3 or more flexible t-bar. (tamiya hi-traction t-bar is great but they do not last too long)
3racing 1.3mm is ok.
Converting to V2 alot more parts are needed. (new kit will most likely be cheaper)
I sold my F104pro and got v2 to replace it , maybe you could do the same?
#1249
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
yes, I use it, the one for the diff in the Asso brand. but what interests me, and my translator does not know interpret, this is the second part of the answer
<< Just sand down the diff plates by using some 1000 and 1200 sand paper and use some 3mm ceramic diff balls and a one-piece thrust bearing instead of the regular 1150 ball bearing that's located in the diff outdrive. This will make your diff very smooth
All this is used with a alu F104 diff >>
<< Just sand down the diff plates by using some 1000 and 1200 sand paper and use some 3mm ceramic diff balls and a one-piece thrust bearing instead of the regular 1150 ball bearing that's located in the diff outdrive. This will make your diff very smooth
All this is used with a alu F104 diff >>
- Substitute part BA17 (the 1150 bearing) for an equivalent sized thrust bearing (eg: Tamiya 53136)
- Swap the position of the two BA20 thrust washers from this way () to this way )(
The changes make the diff much smoother.
#1250
Tech Apprentice
A bit of off topic here, but I hope any1 wont mind:
Shorter deck will allow the chassis to flex more and this helps on asphalt/low grip.(I used it on high grip carpet also and won that race so it works well indoors also). -And I only used the 1 post between top and lower deck on both sides(the rear post only).
I dont understand "side springs" ,get this and this spring .
Use soft oil on the trf shock , like 25wt and a drop of diff oil(i use 5000wt) on the front springs/king pin.
3-5000wt oil in the side dampner is a good starting point.
Use soft t-bar like this
Pit shimzu 571/572 tires and the car should be good to go.
-Pate
I dont understand "side springs" ,get this and this spring .
Use soft oil on the trf shock , like 25wt and a drop of diff oil(i use 5000wt) on the front springs/king pin.
3-5000wt oil in the side dampner is a good starting point.
Use soft t-bar like this
Pit shimzu 571/572 tires and the car should be good to go.
-Pate
#1251
Tech Initiate
PDR thank you, I see what you mean for washers BA20. instead of rolling BA17, I put out a thrust bearing lubricated Asso black grease, as in X-Ray touring cars before the differential gear?
it remains for me to find the right size, corresponding to BA17
it remains for me to find the right size, corresponding to BA17
#1252
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
A bit of off topic here, but I hope any1 wont mind:
Shorter deck will allow the chassis to flex more and this helps on asphalt/low grip.(I used it on high grip carpet also and won that race so it works well indoors also). -And I only used the 1 post between top and lower deck on both sides(the rear post only).
I dont understand "side springs" ,get this and this spring .
Use soft oil on the trf shock , like 25wt and a drop of diff oil(i use 5000wt) on the front springs/king pin.
3-5000wt oil in the side dampner is a good starting point.
Use soft t-bar like this
Pit shimzu 571/572 tires and the car should be good to go.
-Pate
Shorter deck will allow the chassis to flex more and this helps on asphalt/low grip.(I used it on high grip carpet also and won that race so it works well indoors also). -And I only used the 1 post between top and lower deck on both sides(the rear post only).
I dont understand "side springs" ,get this and this spring .
Use soft oil on the trf shock , like 25wt and a drop of diff oil(i use 5000wt) on the front springs/king pin.
3-5000wt oil in the side dampner is a good starting point.
Use soft t-bar like this
Pit shimzu 571/572 tires and the car should be good to go.
-Pate
#1253
Tech Master
The thrust bearing you want to replace BA17 is Tamiya part number 53136.
#1254
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
How do you fix a tweat in this car. When I scale the car I have a more cross weight right front to left rear. This is a real problem when acelerating out of tight right hand corners the car continues to want to turn. If the car didn't do that it would be really competive but I'm having to be careful in the right hand corners. It is hard to race when you have to be that percise!
Also what ride height are you running on this car when I raced 10th and
12th scale pancars we always wanted the chassis as low as possible.
Also what ride height are you running on this car when I raced 10th and
12th scale pancars we always wanted the chassis as low as possible.
#1255
Tech Regular
Sybrand F104X1 with QTEQ medium T-bar (no side links installed) and RIDE R1 rubber tires. It worked very fine today on my low grip local track.
#1256
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
How do you fix a tweat in this car. When I scale the car I have a more cross weight right front to left rear. This is a real problem when acelerating out of tight right hand corners the car continues to want to turn. If the car didn't do that it would be really competive but I'm having to be careful in the right hand corners. It is hard to race when you have to be that percise!
Also what ride height are you running on this car when I raced 10th and
12th scale pancars we always wanted the chassis as low as possible.
Also what ride height are you running on this car when I raced 10th and
12th scale pancars we always wanted the chassis as low as possible.
The front springs can collapse a bit, especially the sweeper side spring. You should check them on a regular basis.
You can also use a regular tweak bar like 1/12 guys use. The screws for the side springs are used to adjust tweak.
It also pays to check the "football" pivot in the center to make sure there is no binding, especially if you have had a crash.
#1257
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
3 things:
The front springs can collapse a bit, especially the sweeper side spring. You should check them on a regular basis.
You can also use a regular tweak bar like 1/12 guys use. The screws for the side springs are used to adjust tweak.
It also pays to check the "football" pivot in the center to make sure there is no binding, especially if you have had a crash.
The front springs can collapse a bit, especially the sweeper side spring. You should check them on a regular basis.
You can also use a regular tweak bar like 1/12 guys use. The screws for the side springs are used to adjust tweak.
It also pays to check the "football" pivot in the center to make sure there is no binding, especially if you have had a crash.
#1258
Are there any black mesh type wheels for the F104? I swear that I saw some at one point, but now all I see are the gray ones. I know Tamiya makes the foam wheels, but I would like the ones that have the ribs.
#1259
What insert do people used in pit tires?
#1260
Stock inserts