AreCee

iTrader: (1)

The "S3" is stamped 2 which will give you the lowest chasis height. (The S is the parts tree that the 0, 1, and 2 are on).

We race on carpet and there is a wide range of spurs from 72 to 100+.

sixace

iTrader: (6)

Awesome. Thanks Ryan.

Walkman

iTrader: (29)

I'm looking at getting into F1. How does the F104 X1 compare to the F104 ver 2? Is the X1 still competitive with the Ver 2?

whitrzac

iTrader: (97)

Depends...

From what I've seen the v2 has an advantage on asphalt.

On carpet they are close...

Csaari77

iTrader: (35)

Need a bit of setup help with my V2. I'm running a low grip bumpy asphalt track and I'm basically searching for more rear end stability on power. When I come out of a low speed corner the car is looping the rear end no matter how gentle I am with the throttle. It's almost like the car is getting locked in a turn and just keeps going once the wheels are straight. Yet once I'm out of the corner I can be more aggressive with the throttle and the car will track correctly

My current setup is:

Rear ride height - 5 mm
Pod droop - 3mm
side springs - pink
TC Rear Shock - 25wt. and gold (mini) spring
Rear tires - Tamiya TCS (rebadged Pits)
Diff slips for 1-2ft from stand still

Front ride height - 5.5 mm
Gold springs
2 deg camber
front axels in the offset position
Front tires - Tamiya TCS (rebadged Pits)

Using a Shorty pack
Battery all the way forward, electronics behind battery

Thanks for the help!

Walkman

iTrader: (29)

The local track that I would race it on is carpet. So I'm leaning toward a X1 and if I like F1 I can always grab a Ver 2.

Mechintosh

What is the best way to eliminate "Torque Steer" when coming out of a corner? Sometimes the car will steer right sometimes left, never predictable. I have softened the punch of the ESC as much as I can. It sounds and feels like the diff is slipping and then grabbing and jerking the car. Suggestions?

LRP SXXV2 ESC, Revtech 21.5. 4.5mm Ride Height, 1.5 mm droop front and rear.
TRF Shock with 30 weight. Red CRC side springs.

HeliYogi

iTrader: (17)

When and where?

1. Race calendar = every Thursday before the F-1 weekend start / First race March 14, 2013... Etc.

2. Race start: All racers should be logged inn and in their cyber garage at PST 8:00PM we will start at 8:05PM (Lobby is open at 7:45 PST)

3. Race venues = F-1 calendar (first race: Australia... etc)

Simulation:

4. Race length: 25% = 15 Lapps 1 pit stop
5. Damage: realistic
6. Tire ware: realistic
7. Climate: dynamic
8. AI (if needed): amateur
9. Car performance: equal

10. Points scoring: Same as F-1
• I will be keeping scores and posting them either on Codemasters or/and on line forum (TBA)
• Final results screen shots will be kept for each race.
• There may be trough offs but Bernie still thinking about it (TBA)
11. Maximum competitors: 16 per race (register early to secure your spot)

Car set up

12. Gear: manual/suggested
13. ABS : OK
14. Traction control: Medium OK
15. Pit assistance: Off

Extras:

16. We encourage everyone to were head phones so we can communicate during the race.
Official language: English – Driver swearing or using foul language will be black flagged (0 tolerance)

17. Gentleman racing conduct will be observed and enforced in Alonsos own words -You must’a leave the space'a to pass’e-

18. Pre registration are very welcome and will secure you a spot in the PST F1 PS3 2013 Championship
• Email to [email protected]:
• Full name,
• PS3 ID
• City/Country
• Team request (if we can provide fix teams maybe will do so)

2xs

iTrader: (4)

How much front droop? Because it sounds like you don't have any weight transfer to the rear.

Also I would move the battery back and moving the RX all the way in front.

Csaari77

iTrader: (35)

1.5mm spacer under the screw in the front.

Jamie Hanson

iTrader: (39)

There are a few things I can think of that may help.
- Run the steel axle over the carbon
- Run some dampening fluid on the front pins. 60k seems to work well.
- Put the battery in the rear of the car. I know it reduces the weight transfer, but it creates more static weight.
- Run heavier shock fluid in the center. I would go to at least 45 or 50 with a 3 hole 1.2mm piston

Use this to start and see what happens.

ewippler

iTrader: (129)

I will be listing a carpet only used F104x1 for sale shortly. My season is winding down and the car has become only a back up. It won the F1 class at two TCS races last year (Omaha and Winthrop Harbor). PM or email if interested, or just keep an eye out on the "For Sale" forum. I hope to have it prepped for sale by the weekend.

Also, will have a Novak Edge ESC and 17.5 Ballistic motor, both lightly used, for sale as well.

Erik

robk

iTrader: (22)

Have you tweaked the car?
Have you made sure the links and "football" pivot have been set correctly? They should allow the pod to easily and smoothly move in all directions. You must remove the motor mount and spring perch cross brace to test this.

robk

iTrader: (22)

As it was mentioned battery back....

Preload the springs a turn to start, more preload will stabilize the car

Lower the rear ride height as much as you can, understanding it's a bumpy track

raise the pod side of the shock, a least 1mm, and don't be afraid to add more

what are you using in the side damper?

terry.sc

Do you have any preload on the side springs? Easy to overlook, I had similar problems with my CRC 1/12th and thought I had a problem with my servo. Changed it for a new one and the same. Discovered that when dialling out tweak I had compressed both springs slightly so when the chassis centred out of a corner the springs worked against each other to upset the chassis.

Adjust the springs so they are only just touching the rear plate and when you adjust for tweak you wind one out when you wind the other in to make sure you don't put any spring pressure on the plate when centred.