2LikesTamiya F104 Version 2
07-18-2012, 08:50 AM
#211
Tech Apprentice
FMW & I had the V2's out for a test today.
Location, Speedtech RC, Host to the next round of the UF1 series, on what is the shortest outdoor circuit of the season
Conditions, bumpy, dusty, tight lanes, low grip concrete, i.e. "FGX
By comparison my WGP car was very restricted as to how far from baseline the car would change based on limited setting options
V2 is a whole new animal
Test and see for yourselves
btw, don't be afraid to try very light pitch & roll springs
This works well on carpet, and asphalt
Today we were running all Pink springs, 900wt Pitch, 15k Roll with plastic roll damper
Location, Speedtech RC, Host to the next round of the UF1 series, on what is the shortest outdoor circuit of the season
Conditions, bumpy, dusty, tight lanes, low grip concrete, i.e. "FGX
By comparison my WGP car was very restricted as to how far from baseline the car would change based on limited setting options
V2 is a whole new animal
Test and see for yourselves
btw, don't be afraid to try very light pitch & roll springs
This works well on carpet, and asphalt
Today we were running all Pink springs, 900wt Pitch, 15k Roll with plastic roll damper
And I also have a question for setting f1, usually on touring car the basic setup is hard spring and oil front , softer spring back , is it the same with f1?
Sorry Im new with F1 so still trying to figure out how to set the car....
Thanks
07-18-2012, 10:35 PM
#212
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
I think by plastic damper he means he used the parts 1-4 on the "W" parts tree in the kit... My car is completely kit, and i took it out today in a car park and it runs sweet!!! Needs a little more rear end traction but i was running in a car park on a cold day with tamiya medium rubber tyres, so im not all too concenrned at this stage. Got my soft springs all around to put in to test out how this thing tunes though.
07-19-2012, 05:32 AM
#213
Tech Apprentice
I think by plastic damper he means he used the parts 1-4 on the "W" parts tree in the kit... My car is completely kit, and i took it out today in a car park and it runs sweet!!! Needs a little more rear end traction but i was running in a car park on a cold day with tamiya medium rubber tyres, so im not all too concenrned at this stage. Got my soft springs all around to put in to test out how this thing tunes though.
And one more question from nubie....the spring on front kingpin is acting like front spring on touring car and the roll damper and side spring same as rear damper and spring on touring...what about the roll damper and spring?
Thanks
07-19-2012, 10:14 AM
#214
They told me that for the RM-01 spring set (Item #54359 and #54352) pink is the softest (super soft), than goes silver, gold and black.
07-19-2012, 09:01 PM
#216
F1 Newb
Fully finished up and did a few quick circles in the garage. Now its set up time.
F1 is a onroad car but def not touring cars. I know how to follow a set up sheet but ran into a few hiccups.
1. Set up sheet for Tamiya track says to set rebound stroke to 1.5mm. Does that mean limit the spring travel to only 1.5mm by tightening the grub screw in the upright onto the shaft or add a 1.5mm spacer under the spring ontop of the Eclip?
2. Rear ride hight says 6mm in the rear...I cant seem to get the rear lower than 7.5 =\ any suggestions to what I'm missing? only thing I'm thinking is the difference in diameter of the tamiya Foam and rubber wheels. I havent glued the pit shizumi yet cause I'm undecided if i want to run them on foam or rubber rims.
3. Roll springs....New to them and I have no idea how to set them I measured them equal length but should they lift up off the chassis when the rear pod is twisted? I read on the Tamiya site to set the chassis straight which I did but I still feel that its loose and the springs will pop off.
I'm prolly just overthinking thing but I want to get a handle on tuning cause thats a major part of the battle. That and my 7 month old doesnt allowThanks in advance.
Ben.
F1 is a onroad car but def not touring cars. I know how to follow a set up sheet but ran into a few hiccups.
1. Set up sheet for Tamiya track says to set rebound stroke to 1.5mm. Does that mean limit the spring travel to only 1.5mm by tightening the grub screw in the upright onto the shaft or add a 1.5mm spacer under the spring ontop of the Eclip?
2. Rear ride hight says 6mm in the rear...I cant seem to get the rear lower than 7.5 =\ any suggestions to what I'm missing? only thing I'm thinking is the difference in diameter of the tamiya Foam and rubber wheels. I havent glued the pit shizumi yet cause I'm undecided if i want to run them on foam or rubber rims.
3. Roll springs....New to them and I have no idea how to set them I measured them equal length but should they lift up off the chassis when the rear pod is twisted? I read on the Tamiya site to set the chassis straight which I did but I still feel that its loose and the springs will pop off.
I'm prolly just overthinking thing but I want to get a handle on tuning cause thats a major part of the battle. That and my 7 month old doesnt allowThanks in advance.
Ben.
07-20-2012, 03:38 AM
#217
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
17.5 motor, blinky speedie, reasonable gearing, tamiya rear softs and medium fronts, pink springs all around, kit oils all around, shorty lipo taped in forward position.
This this glued to the track !!!!! This car is going to be awesome can't wait for proper racing with this thing!!!! I may take the pink springs off the sides and put silvers on them, but we'll see...
This this glued to the track !!!!! This car is going to be awesome can't wait for proper racing with this thing!!!! I may take the pink springs off the sides and put silvers on them, but we'll see...
07-20-2012, 03:31 PM
#218
Fully finished up and did a few quick circles in the garage. Now its set up time.
F1 is a onroad car but def not touring cars. I know how to follow a set up sheet but ran into a few hiccups.
1. Set up sheet for Tamiya track says to set rebound stroke to 1.5mm. Does that mean limit the spring travel to only 1.5mm by tightening the grub screw in the upright onto the shaft or add a 1.5mm spacer under the spring ontop of the Eclip?
From the Tamiya article....
"The front end droop is easily adjusted by the two screws found on the lower part of the front suspension. The directions in the kit do not explain the screws purpose, but it is there to adjust front end droop. The more spacers you add to the bottom of the screw head the less front end droop you will have. The screws limit the top of the front suspension control arm. The taller you make the screw the sooner the top control arm will bottom out resulting in less droop.
The easiest way to measure your front end droop is to measure your front ride height (use millimeters as your method of measure). Make sure the car is fully equipped as if it's ready to hit the track. Then lift the front end and measure the front ride height again once you see the front tires barely lift from your flat set up board or table. The difference between the two measurements will give you the droop value. "
2. Rear ride hight says 6mm in the rear...I cant seem to get the rear lower than 7.5 =\ any suggestions to what I'm missing? only thing I'm thinking is the difference in diameter of the tamiya Foam and rubber wheels. I havent glued the pit shizumi yet cause I'm undecided if i want to run them on foam or rubber rims.
Where do you have the 1/2 moon thing on the axle adjuster? It should be on the bottom. What number axle cam are you using?
3. Roll springs....New to them and I have no idea how to set them I measured them equal length but should they lift up off the chassis when the rear pod is twisted? I read on the Tamiya site to set the chassis straight which I did but I still feel that its loose and the springs will pop off.
This is an age old debate from 1/12 as well. Some people like to have the springs "float" above the chassis. I think this feels weird to drive. I like them to just touch. You really don't want them all preloaded.
You can put the car on a tweak bar to make sure the springs are adjusted correctly. Or, you can put a penny on each front wheel and lift the car from dead center on the front end with a razor blade. The wheel that the penny rolls off first is light. Usually you need to add more preload to the opposite side spring to get the car tweaked straight.
I'm prolly just overthinking thing but I want to get a handle on tuning cause thats a major part of the battle. That and my 7 month old doesnt allowThanks in advance.
Ben.
F1 is a onroad car but def not touring cars. I know how to follow a set up sheet but ran into a few hiccups.
1. Set up sheet for Tamiya track says to set rebound stroke to 1.5mm. Does that mean limit the spring travel to only 1.5mm by tightening the grub screw in the upright onto the shaft or add a 1.5mm spacer under the spring ontop of the Eclip?
From the Tamiya article....
"The front end droop is easily adjusted by the two screws found on the lower part of the front suspension. The directions in the kit do not explain the screws purpose, but it is there to adjust front end droop. The more spacers you add to the bottom of the screw head the less front end droop you will have. The screws limit the top of the front suspension control arm. The taller you make the screw the sooner the top control arm will bottom out resulting in less droop.
The easiest way to measure your front end droop is to measure your front ride height (use millimeters as your method of measure). Make sure the car is fully equipped as if it's ready to hit the track. Then lift the front end and measure the front ride height again once you see the front tires barely lift from your flat set up board or table. The difference between the two measurements will give you the droop value. "
2. Rear ride hight says 6mm in the rear...I cant seem to get the rear lower than 7.5 =\ any suggestions to what I'm missing? only thing I'm thinking is the difference in diameter of the tamiya Foam and rubber wheels. I havent glued the pit shizumi yet cause I'm undecided if i want to run them on foam or rubber rims.
Where do you have the 1/2 moon thing on the axle adjuster? It should be on the bottom. What number axle cam are you using?
3. Roll springs....New to them and I have no idea how to set them I measured them equal length but should they lift up off the chassis when the rear pod is twisted? I read on the Tamiya site to set the chassis straight which I did but I still feel that its loose and the springs will pop off.
This is an age old debate from 1/12 as well. Some people like to have the springs "float" above the chassis. I think this feels weird to drive. I like them to just touch. You really don't want them all preloaded.
You can put the car on a tweak bar to make sure the springs are adjusted correctly. Or, you can put a penny on each front wheel and lift the car from dead center on the front end with a razor blade. The wheel that the penny rolls off first is light. Usually you need to add more preload to the opposite side spring to get the car tweaked straight.
I'm prolly just overthinking thing but I want to get a handle on tuning cause thats a major part of the battle. That and my 7 month old doesnt allowThanks in advance.
Ben.
07-20-2012, 06:31 PM
#219
"The easiest way to measure your front end droop is to measure your front ride height (use millimeters as your method of measure). Make sure the car is fully equipped as if it's ready to hit the track. Then lift the front end and measure the front ride height again once you see the front tires barely lift from your flat set up board or table. The difference between the two measurements will give you
the droop value. "
GOTCHA!!! But since the lower suspension arms are solid I would push down and check the droop. But one problem solved.
As far as the the rear moon axel pod thing its on top and I'm using number one with the number up just like the set up sheet so I can get as low as possible. If i put the moon thing up bottom I'm over the limit of my ride height gauge =\. I'll go tinker around now and see if I can't get the front end hooked up and see about the rear.
Thanks for the info. I'll make sure the roll springs arent tensed.
Ben.
the droop value. "
GOTCHA!!! But since the lower suspension arms are solid I would push down and check the droop. But one problem solved.
As far as the the rear moon axel pod thing its on top and I'm using number one with the number up just like the set up sheet so I can get as low as possible. If i put the moon thing up bottom I'm over the limit of my ride height gauge =\. I'll go tinker around now and see if I can't get the front end hooked up and see about the rear.
Thanks for the info. I'll make sure the roll springs arent tensed.
Ben.
07-20-2012, 07:09 PM
#220
As far as the the rear moon axel pod thing its on top and I'm using number one with the number up just like the set up sheet so I can get as low as possible. If i put the moon thing up bottom I'm over the limit of my ride height gauge =\. I'll go tinker around now and see if I can't get the front end hooked up and see about the rear.
Ben.
Ben.
The lower your axle sits in the pod, the higher the ride height is.
If the 1/2 moon thingy is in the top of the pod, you are making the axle sit like 5mm lower no matter what cam adjuster you have in there. If you get the axle up where it is supposed to be, I'm sure you will be golden.
07-21-2012, 12:38 AM
#221
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
A bit of a disappointing track day today. Hit a wall and the front left upper arm and lower arm broke clean off (which is wierd as ive had much harder hits with the same front end and never broken a thing)...
In any case i also broke both the side links clean in half. Put associated ones on there now so we'll see how it goes.
In any case i also broke both the side links clean in half. Put associated ones on there now so we'll see how it goes.
07-21-2012, 08:27 AM
#222
Associated ones are of same exact length?
07-21-2012, 12:16 PM
#223
Tech Fanatic
A bit of a disappointing track day today. Hit a wall and the front left upper arm and lower arm broke clean off (which is wierd as ive had much harder hits with the same front end and never broken a thing)...
In any case i also broke both the side links clean in half. Put associated ones on there now so we'll see how it goes.
In any case i also broke both the side links clean in half. Put associated ones on there now so we'll see how it goes.
07-21-2012, 04:46 PM
#224
07-21-2012, 06:38 PM
#225
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
Yes same length as the link on associated 12R5 pan car. Although the ball diameter for associated i think is a little smaller as the links aren't as freely moving when connected to the tamiya balls.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Brace-Pod-Link
and
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...eam-Pivot-Ball
I used pliers and pinched the top of the spring slightly (made a smaller circle on the top of the spring that attaches to the plastic thing). This locks the spring onto the plastic thing really well. Haven't lost a spring yet.
Originally Posted by addicted2blue
What's the part nr of those side links from associated? ?
and
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...eam-Pivot-Ball
Originally Posted by rccartips
Our V2 racers also learned to glue the side springs else they pop out and get lost on the track.