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Old 02-03-2005, 07:02 AM   #1
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Default Sealed Can Motor Racing

My local track came up with an idea about having races with sealed can motors, (like the tamiya and traxxas stingers) either just for fun or in a series. Im wondering if anyone else has done this, and if its actually worth it? I know the motors arent the fastest, but theres not much you can do to make them any faster, so it deffinitley would be interesting. Lets hear your opinions on it!

oh ya, im talking about running them in 10th scale touring
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Old 02-03-2005, 07:39 AM   #2
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We have a 540 class up here. It started as Tamiya spec classes (TL01-MINI-GT3) and now it has migrated into GTO (any chassis, Tamiya A tires, 540 can motor)... these almost always seem to be the more popular classes and GTO is gaining populariety as the weeks go on... The racing is closer, yet suprisingly cleaner (with the exception on TL01). On the medium sized track it's still fairly fast and the nice thing is the Tamiya motors last a whole season and get faster the older they are....

I think it's a good idea, unless you are on a large open track then it maybe a bit slow for most people....
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Old 02-03-2005, 07:49 AM   #3
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I'd love it if my track had a sealed-540 class. Even better would be a handout class. You show up, draw two numbers and get two sealed 540's that you must return at the end of the night.
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Old 02-03-2005, 08:50 AM   #4
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We ran for many years about 5 or so now. A spec Tamiya TL01 class with silver can motors. IT was very well supported. But as time went on people did not enjoy the cheapness of the chassis and wanted to go to stock sedan. With less growth in the club it has been hard to keep the series alive. Unfortunatly every new guy off the street wants to jump right into the pro cars and im afraid we loose many of them becuase they jump in to fast and dump to much cash expecting to compete against 10-20year vets.


TL01 has died at our club but we started a new speed/cost reduced sereis. 4cell stock touring cars(any chassis) So far its been well received.



Here are the rules we used for our TL01 class. The Montreal club follows very similar rules:

Section 5: "Spec TL-01" Class Rules

The RCO "SPEC TL-01" class rules are meant to provide fair and close door-to-door racing on a very reasonable budget for both the rookie and the experienced racer.

Section 5.1: Chassis

Any basic-model Tamiya TL-01 on-road car kit can be used. Kits that differ from the basic models (kits including any hop-up parts, such as ball bearings) may not be used unless they're cleared by tech inspection. The cars must be raced as they come out of the box, without any gear ratio changes, hop-ups or modifications (milling, drilling), other than those outlined in section 3.2 below. Repairs must be done with original parts only. Minimum ground clearance including body: 5mm. No weight limit.

Section 5.2: Modifications allowed

The mechanical speed controller may be replaced with any electronic speed controller.
Spur Gear Shaft (1st shaft after the motor pinion).
Two bronze bushings may be used on the spur gear shaft.
Two (5 X 11 X 4mm) bearings can be used on the spur gear shaft. This is the only place where bearings can be used on the TL-01. These are available from all of the local hobby shops.
The motor pinion may be replaced by Robinson Racing p/n RRP-1119 (Metric 48P, 19T).
A hole may be drilled under the tub to allow easy access to the servo saver (max dia: 10mm).
The lightweight frame may be used since it comes with some kits.
Tamiya adjustable turnbuckles for front and rear camber links. Allowable Tamiya parts: # 53303 adjustable upper arm set or #53192 turnbuckle upper arm (4wd/fwd).
Tamiya TL-01 adjustable tie rods. Allowable part is: #53300.
The standard servo saver may be replaced with any ROAR approved servo saver. This change will probably also require the change is sub section g. - Tamiya TL-01 adjustable tie rods.
A foam bumper may be installed on the front and rear. This may be foam added to the existing bumper or a complete foam bumper replacement. There must be a bumper and any additions or modifications of the bumper may not change any of the standard characteristics of the chassis or body such as aerodynamics, width including body or length including body.
Section 5.3: Electric and electronic issues

The motor must be the kit-supplied 540 silver can (Mabuchi or Johnson). Any ROAR approved 6 sub-C cells with a rated capacity of 3300mAh or less. Any speed controller and connector type may be used.

Section 5.4: Tires, wheels, and inserts

Only the "Racing Slick Tires" (p/n: 50454) or the "Racing Radial Tires" (p/n: 50419) can be used. Aftermarket wheels can be used if they have the same diameter, width (26mm), and offset as standard Tamiya wheels. No tire inserts may be used.

Section 5.5: Body and wing

Any 1/10 scale enclosed wheel body type vehicle. Examples of bodies that would not be legal: Buggy, F1, off-road truck, etc. It must be painted and decorated. Except for TL-01 bodies that originally come with window tinting, the windows must be clear and without tinting or painting. Only the supplied wing may be used, no oversized wings. The transponder must be mounted in the lower right corner of the windshield (passenger side)
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
We have a 540 class up here. It started as Tamiya spec classes (TL01-MINI-GT3) and now it has migrated into GTO (any chassis, Tamiya A tires, 540 can motor)... these almost always seem to be the more popular classes and GTO is gaining populariety as the weeks go on... The racing is closer, yet suprisingly cleaner (with the exception on TL01). On the medium sized track it's still fairly fast and the nice thing is the Tamiya motors last a whole season and get faster the older they are....

I think it's a good idea, unless you are on a large open track then it maybe a bit slow for most people....
It appears I'm racing at the same place RCO I assume. I've been racing the GTO class for a couple of months now, and love it, the first night I ran it we had 4 or 5 entries, last week we had an A and a B main, it was great. The only problem is that since the quality control on these motors is lacking some are a lot faster than others, you almost have to buy a couple of them to get a fast one, but when you do, you are 100% right they last forever. I love the class its the only class my TB-02 can run right up there with the X rays and such.

Get 4 or 5 people you race with to all start this class and people will jump on board the racing is super tight and wrecks are kept at a minimum, tires are cheaper and last longer too. I only wish there was some type of limit on the cost of kits or something, I'm still at an unfair advatage with my TB-02. Unfortunatly that would keep most of the people in the class out.
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Old 02-03-2005, 10:16 AM   #6
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Id love to go buy a tb02 or tl01 or something and just run it. But the tracks i run at, the guys are a little to serious and i dont think it would catch on, sounds like it could be fun tho
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Old 02-03-2005, 10:29 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
Id love to go buy a tb02 or tl01 or something and just run it. But the tracks i run at, the guys are a little to serious and i dont think it would catch on, sounds like it could be fun tho
Thats the great part of silver can racing, my tb 02 flexes on a high traction surface but running rubber tires and a silver can motor my car can compete. Some of the most serious racers even those who have full battery and motor rides have jumped over to this class when they arn't attending bigger races. Its just plain fun. and that is what everybody is out there for.

I stopped racing touring cars about 4 years ago b/c of not being able to compete in stock class on a budget, I jumped back in two months ago and in this class I am competitive top of the field I love it!
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Old 02-03-2005, 04:37 PM   #8
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so anyone know any tips or tricks for boosting the power of a sealed can motor?





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Last edited by SirSpeedy; 02-03-2005 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 02-03-2005, 05:08 PM   #9
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Old 02-04-2005, 06:02 AM   #10
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If its new, try water dipping, some suggest water dipping it every few weeks, careful...

It has also been suggested, instead of water dipping, run the motor with no load at low volts (1-3) for a few mins every once in awhile, to help clean up the comm a bit.

I dunno if this stuff actually works....

This summer I likely will be competing is a spec class... Tamiya M class cars, no mods allowed at all.
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Old 02-04-2005, 06:17 AM   #11
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The club I run retains the basic "Tamiya Spec" class and since the new TT-01 chassis has all but taken the place of the TL01, the class does well. The TT-01 is worlds apart from the TL and most drivers easily see the comparison between the TT and it's big brother the Evo 3.
We follow this up by making the next step a controlled class with a 27t handout motor and limiting them to unmatched 3300mah batteries. This way the cost factor rises according to the drivers experience and interest level and the TT-01 can still be competitive if they choose to hop it up. We do not suggest the TL-01 chassis anymore.
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Old 02-04-2005, 07:00 AM   #12
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A friend has both the TT and the TL, and he prefers the TL due to its being MUCH more durable than the TT.

Granted he may not be the best driver, but after watching him curse and swear at the TT last week...
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Old 02-04-2005, 08:55 AM   #13
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Hey SIRSPEEDY why should I change my avatar? ive had it for well over 300 post and no one has said anything, not even the owner, hell, its only a black and white drawing!
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Old 02-04-2005, 09:20 AM   #14
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NIRTO Take a look at the top thread/notice , there is notice for people to change them to non/offencive politically correct versions. Bikinis ok, thongs or dental floss is not ok nor is some butt shots
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Old 02-04-2005, 09:32 AM   #15
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hey now...

for a guy who lives in a province where thongs and women topless in public is legal Joel...


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