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Old 04-20-2012, 09:47 AM   #31
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Did you set the motor to brushed mode before you wired it up?

Maybe it doesnt like it if you solder the A/B/C posts up in brushless mode and apply throttle. You would need to check with someone at Tekin about whether that may cause any issues, im not keen to do it with any of mine :P


I have used an old R1 with brushed motors and i personally think it is easily faster than the gtx which i used to use and preferred over the lrp QCs.
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:52 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
You will have to buy a separate programming box for nearly every single ESC out there, so I don't really think you can keep using this sort of logic. And you aren't using it to program a brushed 540, you are using it to program your ESC so that you can use a brushed 540, and ensure that the settings are correct for your intended application. You buy one hotwire and you can use it for however many Tekins you have, and it makes changing settings incredibly easy compared to the convoluted method you are currently using (that is perhaps already leading to confusion and error).

EDIT: And not everyone is saying you NEED a hotwire. However, in a situation where you are already having issues programming the esc, the Hotwire can help clarify things and makes programming your esc for both this application as well as any future uses incredibly easy. Just saying.
Hi,
Thank you for your help, To be honest< I am getting frustrated!
Something that is meant to be easy is beginning to be a pain in the (_*_).

All I want is a ESC that will do Both, Reason for the Tekin RS Pro.

I can see what you mean by getting a Hotwire, But to purchase something again towards something that's now working in the first place is not really helping me out to understand why this is happening in the first place.

I'm out of pocket already having to send it to Tekin, Then payed for postage back.
Now might have to send again, and now I'm hearing that I need a Hotwire to go with it.? Do you feel where I'm coming from?

I do have 5 other Rc cars and have not had a problem at all in the past.
But this one is really starting to annoy me, and feeling like I made the wrong choice.

I have Had the G10 in the past with no problems. Reason for this purchase.
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:55 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Did you set the motor to brushed mode before you wired it up?

Maybe it doesnt like it if you solder the A/B/C posts up in brushless mode and apply throttle. You would need to check with someone at Tekin about whether that may cause any issues, im not keen to do it with any of mine :P


I have used an old R1 with brushed motors and i personally think it is easily faster than the gtx which i used to use and preferred over the lrp QCs.

I wired it up and went into Motor selection.
Being mode pressing 6 times, then selecting 4 leds for Forward and break.
Then Calibration.

What can I say
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:05 AM   #34
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It would be helpful to wire up a brushless motor to it, set it for brushless and see if it runs. If it does, something else is going on. I can only do so much over a forum with troubleshooting.

Do you get any power up chimes at all?
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:08 AM   #35
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My RS (not pro) won TCS GT3 (silver can) a few years ago, worked GREAT on brushed (and NOT using 3-wire set-up), Now it works GREAT with FF03 21.5 brushless. Always used Hotwire. I'm not Team Tekin, and never have any problems. I only respond to assure you Tekin is a great product, and I hope you get this figured out...
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:17 AM   #36
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It would be helpful to wire up a brushless motor to it, set it for brushless and see if it runs. If it does, something else is going on. I can only do so much over a forum with troubleshooting.

Do you get any power up chimes at all?
I do not wish to De-Solder it now and swap it to Brushless, as I have had a few Beer's.

I do get a Chime Yes!

Now to get to the start of it all, Why did the Cap blow in the first place?
It was installed with the blue moon to the Negative Battery side, as per Pic.

Also when I had installed this, and connected the Battery, The Cap was already a warm to rather hot stage.
Then Calibration to BaNg ! and the smell. Rather nice - not.


So Do I need another Number to send this back in?
Or Can I get a Refund?
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:41 AM   #37
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I love tekin One touch programming, and think that if you have already done it several times over, you should send it back to tekin ASAP... They should be able to help you that way. Also you can't purchase a hotwire for something that doesn't Work in the first place....
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:11 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
I love tekin One touch programming, and think that if you have already done it several times over, you should send it back to tekin ASAP... They should be able to help you that way. Also you can't purchase a hotwire for something that doesn't Work in the first place....
Thank you for your honest opinion,
I'm looking at sending it back. But am afraid if it happens again to me when it arrives! Wish there was someone in Melbourne where I could take this too and let them look at it, If it need to be changed, then they can do it!
That was I feel not to blame......
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:11 AM   #39
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If you turned on the unit in BL mode while wired for brushed it should have shown the 1,2 6,7 code for wrong motor type. Right now you should be able to set it to any motor type mode except #4 and it should show 1,2 6,7 code.

It might simply be broken. The fact that the cap got hot is not good. The fact that the cap does not get hot now says something may have been damaged already.

Give us a call and I am sure we can walk thru some things and figure it out. Maybe live chat since you are out of the country. The RS, RSpro and Rx8 all work very well in brushed mode. You are right it should not be this hard and I assure you typically it is not.
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:19 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Tekin Prez View Post
If you turned on the unit in BL mode while wired for brushed it should have shown the 1,2 6,7 code for wrong motor type. Right now you should be able to set it to any motor type mode except #4 and it should show 1,2 6,7 code.

It might simply be broken. The fact that the cap got hot is not good. The fact that the cap does not get hot now says something may have been damaged already.

Give us a call and I am sure we can walk thru some things and figure it out. Maybe live chat since you are out of the country. The RS, RSpro and Rx8 all work very well in brushed mode. You are right it should not be this hard and I assure you typically it is not.

Hi

I looked at live call, But it's off line. ( what time are you online - as its already 3.20am here)
I have a mobile, But I think that too would be too costly.
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:22 AM   #41
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They are at lunch... Check back in a bit. they do not let me have a log in for it

Do you see leds 1,2 6,7 flash on when choosing any Motor type other than #4?
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:25 AM   #42
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BRB
Will change it and see.
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:28 AM   #43
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Hi again.

Yes I just selected mode 6 then went into 2 Led mode for Brushless.
The 12 and 67 leds were on.
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:31 AM   #44
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All the problems likely started right at the first turn on and calibrate, or the unit was bad to start with. Reading your first post I have a few questions.

Unit was wired as shown and motor was connected?

Unit should have shown the 1,2 6,7 code when turned on forcing you to select the right motor type before going on to calibration. If the unit booted like normal to the flashing between led 1 (temp) and led 4 (neutral) something was wrong already.

You can trick the unit to boot in BL mode while wired for brushed fwd only if the 3 motor posts are shorted together, but the motor is not connected.. or has a hung brush and looks unconnected to the controller. The short looks like a BL motor to us. If we did boot up in BL mode while wired for Brushed mode and you go thru the calibration process it could blow the fets due the chiming. The chiming is us driving the motor slightly at a freq to make noise. Wired wrong this is a dead short on the controller and would cause the cap to get hot due to the large current spikes.

Were you always in motor type 4 when you calibrated? If the units was somehow tricked in letting you radio calibrate while in the wrong mode it would likely be damaged.
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:38 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekin Prez View Post
All the problems likely started right at the first turn on and calibrate, or the unit was bad to start with. Reading your first post I have a few questions.

Unit was wired as shown and motor was connected?

Unit should have shown the 1,2 6,7 code when turned on forcing you to select the right motor type before going on to calibration. If the unit booted like normal to the flashing between led 1 (temp) and led 4 (neutral) something was wrong already.

You can trick the unit to boot in BL mode while wired for brushed fwd only if the 3 motor posts are shorted together, but the motor is not connected.. or has a hung brush and looks unconnected to the controller. The short looks like a BL motor to us. If we did boot up in BL mode while wired for Brushed mode and you go thru the calibration process it could blow the fets due the chiming. The chiming is us driving the motor slightly at a freq to make noise. Wired wrong this is a dead short on the controller and would cause the cap to get hot due to the large current spikes.

Were you always in motor type 4 when you calibrated?

Hello

I did not have the Motor Wired to the ESC when I first connected the Leads to the Battery.
The ESC did turn on and displaying 12 and 67. ( I thought this was normal)
I then selected the mode to 6 (pressing 6 times)
then it displayed 1 led, where I selected to 4.

Then when into calibration.

But even at the start, when first connected, the cap was rather Hot!
I looked at it more than once to make sure it was connected correctly.
even had my mate ( that was here at the time) check it over with the manual.

He even jumped when the Cap blew.

P.s no smoke or heat from the esc unit itself.
was always only the Cap.
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