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Team Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car

Old 01-13-2014, 07:33 PM
  #841  
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Again this past Saturday I tied for 1st in 17.5 tc class. Also tied for 1st in VTA class. The tie was because we ran double mains.
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:41 AM
  #842  
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Ok. So I still need some help. I ordered a 74t 64p spur and to get the FDR I want, the motor will not move enough to touch the pinion to the spur. Can someone post what they are using for a spur and pinion for a 25.5 motor to get a FDR of about 3.6. I would rather use 64p gears. Thanks.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:06 AM
  #843  
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Originally Posted by Jim Hustins View Post
Ok. So I still need some help. I ordered a 74t 64p spur and to get the FDR I want, the motor will not move enough to touch the pinion to the spur. Can someone post what they are using for a spur and pinion for a 25.5 motor to get a FDR of about 3.6. I would rather use 64p gears. Thanks.
88/48 I have drilled out holes in motor plate to push motor back further to use smaller spurs. I am using a 80t spur. The only way to use 70ish spurs is if you are wanting a lower fdr. Then you would be using you 50plus tooth pinions.
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
88/48 I have drilled out holes in motor plate to push motor back further to use smaller spurs. I am using a 80t spur. The only way to use 70ish spurs is if you are wanting a lower fdr. Then you would be using you 50plus tooth pinions.
Thank you. This will give me a good starting point. Did you have to drill the motor plate for the 88/48 gear ratio?
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:26 PM
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You shouldn't need to drill anything to get 3.6:1. I have had my car at 3:1 with 48dp (61/40), that's about an 81/53 in 64dp. I could run the car at 3.6 with a 67/37, very easy to fit, that's about 88/48 in 64dp.
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Old 01-19-2014, 04:57 PM
  #846  
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Originally Posted by Jim Hustins View Post
Thank you. This will give me a good starting point. Did you have to drill the motor plate for the 88/48 gear ratio?
No drilling for that combo!
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
You shouldn't need to drill anything to get 3.6:1. I have had my car at 3:1 with 48dp (61/40), that's about an 81/53 in 64dp. I could run the car at 3.6 with a 67/37, very easy to fit, that's about 88/48 in 64dp.
He was asking for a smaller tooth spur. Then drilling a bit would be required.
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:15 PM
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Just wanted to thank everyone for their help in the past with my traction rolling issues in my Blinky 17.5 car and lack of on power steering in my Mod 5.5 car. Both issues have been somewhat resolved and cars are driving very well on our indoor oxite 80x36 feet medium grip track. Now if the guy behind the radio would cooperate, then we’d be unstoppable!

Two questions:

1. One of the 2 fastest drivers in our club have commented to me a few times that my car doesn’t seem to have the same corner speed as his car and that my issue might be not enough “roll” into the corner. He keeps telling me to soften my setup even more. Personally, I think it might be the tires I’m using (Jaco Blues….trying to finish off old tires) and he’s using Sweeps (and a better driver). He’s about 0.2 seconds faster than me on a mid-9 second semi technical track. I’m about on par with the other club’s A Main drivers except the guy using the Sorex 28’s.

Ignoring the tires for now, what would you guys do to “soften” the setup or basically increase corner speed in the car without the annoying side effect of traction rolling. What setup changes would you try and in what order?

2. Our regional race series uses a Spec Tire that I believe to be grippier than my currently 50 run or so Jaco Blues. What setup changes would you guys do to accommodate a grippier tire and what to try and in what order? The most problem others seem to be having is traction rolling. I plan on trying grippier tires in 4 to 5 weeks to get ready for our leg of the regional race series at the end of March.

Any advice is much appreciated,

Ivan
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
No drilling for that combo!


He was asking for a smaller tooth spur. Then drilling a bit would be required.
Thanks again. I ordered the correct spur. This is my VTA.
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:08 PM
  #849  
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher View Post
Just wanted to thank everyone for their help in the past with my traction rolling issues in my Blinky 17.5 car and lack of on power steering in my Mod 5.5 car. Both issues have been somewhat resolved and cars are driving very well on our indoor oxite 80x36 feet medium grip track.
What did you end up changing on your car to cure the grip rolling issues?
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher View Post
Just wanted to thank everyone for their help in the past with my traction rolling issues in my Blinky 17.5 car and lack of on power steering in my Mod 5.5 car. Both issues have been somewhat resolved and cars are driving very well on our indoor oxite 80x36 feet medium grip track. Now if the guy behind the radio would cooperate, then we’d be unstoppable!

Two questions:

1. One of the 2 fastest drivers in our club have commented to me a few times that my car doesn’t seem to have the same corner speed as his car and that my issue might be not enough “roll” into the corner. He keeps telling me to soften my setup even more. Personally, I think it might be the tires I’m using (Jaco Blues….trying to finish off old tires) and he’s using Sweeps (and a better driver). He’s about 0.2 seconds faster than me on a mid-9 second semi technical track. I’m about on par with the other club’s A Main drivers except the guy using the Sorex 28’s.

Ignoring the tires for now, what would you guys do to “soften” the setup or basically increase corner speed in the car without the annoying side effect of traction rolling. What setup changes would you try and in what order?

2. Our regional race series uses a Spec Tire that I believe to be grippier than my currently 50 run or so Jaco Blues. What setup changes would you guys do to accommodate a grippier tire and what to try and in what order? The most problem others seem to be having is traction rolling. I plan on trying grippier tires in 4 to 5 weeks to get ready for our leg of the regional race series at the end of March.

Any advice is much appreciated,

Ivan
At my track I find with my car that reducing the rear toe from 3 to 2.5 seems to free up the car everywhere on the track. But I can only get away with this on the actual raceday as the grip comes up. Running the 2.5 rear block is too loose on practice day.

Are you running a lightweight body? That extra weight makes a big difference being up high.
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:40 AM
  #851  
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Anyone that works with a hobby shop or knows a hobby shop owner - tell them we have a great new program to help get ARC cars and parts into their store. Have them contact me at [email protected] or call 425-968-5389.

We already provide direct service to customers, distribution to hobby shops (through ourselves and HRP) and on line retailers (like A Main) -- but we have some great offers for hobby shops that are interested.

Thanks for all the help moving the brand forward!!! More to come in 2014!!
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by damage View Post
What did you end up changing on your car to cure the grip rolling issues?
Hey Warren,

So you got yourself an R10?

It was basically pretty simple for my car. I soften the front end with softer springs, I reduced droop to decrease roll/wheel lift and I half sauced the front instead of full sauce. Seems to work on my car. But I only have the non-2013 R10.

Originally Posted by Joe_Cathey View Post
At my track I find with my car that reducing the rear toe from 3 to 2.5 seems to free up the car everywhere on the track. But I can only get away with this on the actual raceday as the grip comes up. Running the 2.5 rear block is too loose on practice day.

Are you running a lightweight body? That extra weight makes a big difference being up high.
Interesting Joe. I've had this discussion with a few of my club members but we have a difference in opinion that is I feel as traction comes up, I find that I have increase steering into corners. Others have told me they feel like their car 'pushes' into the corners.

Obviously your changes work for you but from my perspective, wouldn't reducing rear toe in equals reducing rear grip where as the traction comes up, it would increase front steering even more? Just trying to understand the rationale.

No, I'm not running a lightweight body. I think it's a third lighter and i understand that would help but I still hit the boards a lot more than I would like (...or other "racing" incidents occur) and I'm too cheap to do that also. You haven't seen that amount of Gorilla Tape I'm already using to repair my bodies.

Ivan
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Old 01-25-2014, 08:58 PM
  #853  
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher View Post
Hey Warren,

So you got yourself an R10?

It was basically pretty simple for my car. I soften the front end with softer springs, I reduced droop to decrease roll/wheel lift and I half sauced the front instead of full sauce. Seems to work on my car. But I only have the non-2013 R10.
Yes, R10 2013. Really like the car, but it tunes very different than my Serpent. I've had some grip roll issues immediately that I've never had with the S411, but have seemed to have got it figured out. The car itself is excellent quality and drives very aggressively which is what I was hoping for when I bought it.
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Old 01-25-2014, 09:04 PM
  #854  
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I have heard that the USA Team ARC drivers were chosen. Just wanted to say congratulations to those drivers!
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher View Post
Hey Warren,

So you got yourself an R10?

It was basically pretty simple for my car. I soften the front end with softer springs, I reduced droop to decrease roll/wheel lift and I half sauced the front instead of full sauce. Seems to work on my car. But I only have the non-2013 R10.



Interesting Joe. I've had this discussion with a few of my club members but we have a difference in opinion that is I feel as traction comes up, I find that I have increase steering into corners. Others have told me they feel like their car 'pushes' into the corners.

Obviously your changes work for you but from my perspective, wouldn't reducing rear toe in equals reducing rear grip where as the traction comes up, it would increase front steering even more? Just trying to understand the rationale.

No, I'm not running a lightweight body. I think it's a third lighter and i understand that would help but I still hit the boards a lot more than I would like (...or other "racing" incidents occur) and I'm too cheap to do that also. You haven't seen that amount of Gorilla Tape I'm already using to repair my bodies.

Ivan
My local track is a temporary track, where the carpet gets rolled out on a Friday, once the track barriers are set up it is ready to run. Then race Saturday, and rolled back up after the race. And the layout is always the same so the groove is built up. Usually for our practice on Friday the grip has gone away some. And by that I mean for my car I feel loose in back - somewhat sliding. My car is just not hooked up enough with the 2.5 rear toe block in practice. But by raceday the track has developed more grip and going to 2.5 rear toe in helps my car turn quite a bit, it just has a more free feeling in back. At my track, I picked up .2 per lap with this change alone. Make sense?
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