Xray T1FK05
#1456

Hey, all. Just got back from a weekend of heavy-duty testing with the FK05 on asphalt.
My findings with the car thus far:
1) Car is overall very, very good. There are no horribly glaring issues with the car, but just a few small niggles--some of which have been addressed in this forum already, some of which I'll mention later.
2) There is definitely a trade-off more in line with the Corally's handling characteristics. The 05 has a tendency to have less initial turn-in. The flip-side of this is that it has more snap coming out and is wickedly good in wide-radius turns/sweepers. It maintains it's line in corners like these beautifully. I drove an FK04 back to back with my FK05 and this impression was reinforced.
3) The drivetrain is butter. If any of you are finding your drivetrain is binding, go all the way loose on both eccentric carriers. (If you're running mod though, be careful, it may be too loose. If you start flipping belts or notice lag, come back in on the carriers.) Anyway, the drivetrain feels snappier coming back on power than the old car. Now, obviously we're not talking night and day, just a subtle difference.
4) Niggles:
For those who like the wide Kimbrough-type gears, they don't clear. I've always used PRS, so it doesn't matter to me.
Without modifying the hanger, running small pinions (20 tooth or less) for mod is impossible with only a 116 tooth spur. Two things prohibit this: a small lip that sticks out near the bearing in the hanger and the slots for the motor screws being too short.
Front shock tower is too high. There's no way to properly slam a Mazda6 without dremeling down the top of it. Fortunately, with some dremel work, the tower clears just fine. But it seems like an oversight.
My findings with the car thus far:
1) Car is overall very, very good. There are no horribly glaring issues with the car, but just a few small niggles--some of which have been addressed in this forum already, some of which I'll mention later.
2) There is definitely a trade-off more in line with the Corally's handling characteristics. The 05 has a tendency to have less initial turn-in. The flip-side of this is that it has more snap coming out and is wickedly good in wide-radius turns/sweepers. It maintains it's line in corners like these beautifully. I drove an FK04 back to back with my FK05 and this impression was reinforced.
3) The drivetrain is butter. If any of you are finding your drivetrain is binding, go all the way loose on both eccentric carriers. (If you're running mod though, be careful, it may be too loose. If you start flipping belts or notice lag, come back in on the carriers.) Anyway, the drivetrain feels snappier coming back on power than the old car. Now, obviously we're not talking night and day, just a subtle difference.
4) Niggles:
For those who like the wide Kimbrough-type gears, they don't clear. I've always used PRS, so it doesn't matter to me.
Without modifying the hanger, running small pinions (20 tooth or less) for mod is impossible with only a 116 tooth spur. Two things prohibit this: a small lip that sticks out near the bearing in the hanger and the slots for the motor screws being too short.
Front shock tower is too high. There's no way to properly slam a Mazda6 without dremeling down the top of it. Fortunately, with some dremel work, the tower clears just fine. But it seems like an oversight.
#1457

HarshGuy...Go to home Depot and get 3M straping tape.(looks clear with white lines)Works great,just pull it tight.This is what I use on my PRO4.I didn't like using tape either but now that I do I will never go back.
Remember to round off the slots for the tape.Tape will get cut in a hard crash!!
Remember to round off the slots for the tape.Tape will get cut in a hard crash!!
#1460

I didn't see a tweek issue, shoudl I be checking some other way? Here's with tape and then with the "gehtto bar 2.0"

It's an RW gear, had to elongate 2 of the holes, I only did it because I was having problems getting into the precisiongearsystems.com site to order their gears and I needed it for this weekend ...I was able to get onto PS last night and ordered up the gears ...in the meantime the RW's work wonderfull, again you just have to elongate teo of the holes, but the center hole snaps into the gear adaptor so there's no cenerting problem whatsoever.


It's an RW gear, had to elongate 2 of the holes, I only did it because I was having problems getting into the precisiongearsystems.com site to order their gears and I needed it for this weekend ...I was able to get onto PS last night and ordered up the gears ...in the meantime the RW's work wonderfull, again you just have to elongate teo of the holes, but the center hole snaps into the gear adaptor so there's no cenerting problem whatsoever.
#1461

Anyone knows when the multi-diff and optional battery holder will become available?
#1462

Originally posted by Besercoe
Im pretty sure the latest batch of spur gears from RW, have 6 hole mounting.
Im pretty sure the latest batch of spur gears from RW, have 6 hole mounting.
#1464
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)

have you been on the xray form yet. there is alot of guy on there talking about asphalt setups
http://www.teamxray.com/xforum/viewt...t=1278&start=0
http://www.teamxray.com/xforum/viewt...t=1278&start=0
#1465

just a quick question guys with the fk05 multi diff if i
1, put the front belt on the pulley that the rear belt is on
2, the rear belt on the front pulley
3, flip the rear diff around
4, flip the front diff around (and use a MULTI DIFF INSTEAD OF A STANDARD DIFF)
DOES this mean that i can use a multi in the fk04!!???
...i think i might have to also flip the ecentric steering bearing holder thing the other way... I RECON IT WILL FIT!!!
1, put the front belt on the pulley that the rear belt is on
2, the rear belt on the front pulley
3, flip the rear diff around
4, flip the front diff around (and use a MULTI DIFF INSTEAD OF A STANDARD DIFF)
DOES this mean that i can use a multi in the fk04!!???



#1466
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,777
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)

Originally posted by Twin-Kyle
First...That will cause your chassis to tweak BAD. Take it off and tape your batts in.
Second.. How did you get that spur gear in.Thought those didn't fit?
First...That will cause your chassis to tweak BAD. Take it off and tape your batts in.
Second.. How did you get that spur gear in.Thought those didn't fit?


#1467

If any of the hudy officials read this: Please don't bother preassembling diffs in the kits if it's not done properly. Mine didn't have a single drop of lube in it. Since that circlip is a PITA to remove, please give us a not-assembled diff instead and let uss assemble it as we like. thanks!
Quick Q's to you guys: What is the right Allen wrench to use on the shock ball joint mounts (the metal part that fits in the ball ends)? 4mm? Forgot to measure and gotta go buy one this evening. thanks a lot!
Comments on shock assembly: I actually expected a lot worse... here's how I did it. First, use a body reamer to *slightly* enlarge the ball end's open end to make threading easier... second, using a drop of teflon lube in teh ball-end and nice pliers to grab the shaft by the flat spot where the piston sits, thread the ball ends on the shaft (use a screwdriver to insert in the ball end rather than turning with your fingers...). Do this 3 or 4 times, making sure you always thread in the same manner. Then remove the ball ends and assemble like explained in the manual, it's a lot easier now. I also found that using a vacuum pump to remove the air really helps (it's incredible how many cavities are in these shocks), as well as cutting slightly the top of the bladder to remove the excess "lip" of rubber (not sure it's clear, but basically you want the metal cap to screw on the shock body easier). Et voila, 4 perfect shocks
Cheers,
Paul
Quick Q's to you guys: What is the right Allen wrench to use on the shock ball joint mounts (the metal part that fits in the ball ends)? 4mm? Forgot to measure and gotta go buy one this evening. thanks a lot!
Comments on shock assembly: I actually expected a lot worse... here's how I did it. First, use a body reamer to *slightly* enlarge the ball end's open end to make threading easier... second, using a drop of teflon lube in teh ball-end and nice pliers to grab the shaft by the flat spot where the piston sits, thread the ball ends on the shaft (use a screwdriver to insert in the ball end rather than turning with your fingers...). Do this 3 or 4 times, making sure you always thread in the same manner. Then remove the ball ends and assemble like explained in the manual, it's a lot easier now. I also found that using a vacuum pump to remove the air really helps (it's incredible how many cavities are in these shocks), as well as cutting slightly the top of the bladder to remove the excess "lip" of rubber (not sure it's clear, but basically you want the metal cap to screw on the shock body easier). Et voila, 4 perfect shocks

Cheers,
Paul
#1468

Originally posted by dontfeelcold
battery straps will only tweak the car if you try to hold the batteries in with vice grip like pressure.
set it properly and it wont tweak the chassis.
battery straps will only tweak the car if you try to hold the batteries in with vice grip like pressure.


Paul
#1470

Originally posted by taz5176
hi guys, know any online shop tat sell rw spurs?
hi guys, know any online shop tat sell rw spurs?
www.microtechracing.com
Or
www.apexmodels.com
I don't think the new gears specifically for T1FK05 have been released yet but I maybe wrong!