1LikesXray T1FK05
03-30-2005, 03:20 PM
#1306
Originally posted by ALBERTO
Are you sure about that.... I'm only asking cause that seems like a big differanse in weight. I was always under the assumtion that we all masure oil in the same mannor...... if not i just learned something new
Are you sure about that.... I'm only asking cause that seems like a big differanse in weight. I was always under the assumtion that we all masure oil in the same mannor...... if not i just learned something new
03-30-2005, 03:35 PM
#1307
Hey, guys. Just lurking around here a bit.
Yeah, XRAY 30wt is around 50-55wt. in Trinity/Associated oil. I've never compared it to Losi. 60wt is a little too heavy for related use. I also generally prefer the XRAY oil to the Trinity equivalent. I find it to be a tick smoother and easier to work with.
As far as building the shocks, simply follow the instructions. I've built these shocks for a number of different kits. (Ask Tag, he's always getting me to build shocks for his cars.) They're actually really easy to build and super smooth. I never have air bubbles and generally I rebuild my shocks once a month.
Simply fill the shock to the top with the shock oil. Then, slowly push the piston almost to the top of its travel. Pull it back down very gently and then fill the rest of the body to the top with oil. Then, put the bladder on top (yes, some of the oil will overflow) and then put the shock cap on until it's fairly tight. Before you do ANYTHING, flip the shock upside down and compress a few times. The rebound will be too strong, SO, with the shock still upside down, you unscrew the bottom portion until it's off the shock body and then compress the shaft a few times until oil leaks out. Go ahead and screw the bottom cap back on and compress the shaft. You want very, very little rebound--if any. (I leave some in because inevitably the shocks lose some oil after a few runs.) Keep bleeding this way until you get the rebound you want. Remember, always keep the shock upside down when bleeding.
VOILA!--perfect XRAY shocks. Other than the Tamiya ones, they've been my favorite shocks to work with.
Yeah, XRAY 30wt is around 50-55wt. in Trinity/Associated oil. I've never compared it to Losi. 60wt is a little too heavy for related use. I also generally prefer the XRAY oil to the Trinity equivalent. I find it to be a tick smoother and easier to work with.
As far as building the shocks, simply follow the instructions. I've built these shocks for a number of different kits. (Ask Tag, he's always getting me to build shocks for his cars.) They're actually really easy to build and super smooth. I never have air bubbles and generally I rebuild my shocks once a month.
Simply fill the shock to the top with the shock oil. Then, slowly push the piston almost to the top of its travel. Pull it back down very gently and then fill the rest of the body to the top with oil. Then, put the bladder on top (yes, some of the oil will overflow) and then put the shock cap on until it's fairly tight. Before you do ANYTHING, flip the shock upside down and compress a few times. The rebound will be too strong, SO, with the shock still upside down, you unscrew the bottom portion until it's off the shock body and then compress the shaft a few times until oil leaks out. Go ahead and screw the bottom cap back on and compress the shaft. You want very, very little rebound--if any. (I leave some in because inevitably the shocks lose some oil after a few runs.) Keep bleeding this way until you get the rebound you want. Remember, always keep the shock upside down when bleeding.
VOILA!--perfect XRAY shocks. Other than the Tamiya ones, they've been my favorite shocks to work with.
03-30-2005, 04:15 PM
#1308
FK05 FOR SALE (U.S. Kit)!!
Anyone looking for a FK05, I have a brand new unassembled kit for sale. I initially purchased two, one to build and the other for parts. Well I run on a high bite track and a one-way is a must have so I purchased another kit outside the states that has the multi-diff. So if anyone is interested please email me or PM me first one with the cash. THE PRICE IS $400.OO + SHIPPING.
On another note when I built my kit the diffs were bone dry as well, so I would encourage everyone to check your diffs. I've run Xrays in the past and this is the first time I have ever seen a diff come pre-assembled dry.
My first impressions of the car is WOWWWWWWW!! I can't believe how much steering this car has with dual diffs. I have run several different types of car at my local track (SO CAL Raceway) and everyone that I ran without a one-way they pushed like pigs middle to exit of the turns. The Xray steered very well all the way through the turn. I can't wait to pop the Multi-Diff into this car. And another thing, the rear diff adjustment does have impact on rear traction, so if you have an opportunity play around with it.
EMAIL ME
Keith
Anyone looking for a FK05, I have a brand new unassembled kit for sale. I initially purchased two, one to build and the other for parts. Well I run on a high bite track and a one-way is a must have so I purchased another kit outside the states that has the multi-diff. So if anyone is interested please email me or PM me first one with the cash. THE PRICE IS $400.OO + SHIPPING.
On another note when I built my kit the diffs were bone dry as well, so I would encourage everyone to check your diffs. I've run Xrays in the past and this is the first time I have ever seen a diff come pre-assembled dry.
My first impressions of the car is WOWWWWWWW!! I can't believe how much steering this car has with dual diffs. I have run several different types of car at my local track (SO CAL Raceway) and everyone that I ran without a one-way they pushed like pigs middle to exit of the turns. The Xray steered very well all the way through the turn. I can't wait to pop the Multi-Diff into this car. And another thing, the rear diff adjustment does have impact on rear traction, so if you have an opportunity play around with it.
EMAIL ME
Keith
Last edited by rcfiend; 03-30-2005 at 04:21 PM.
03-30-2005, 04:17 PM
#1309
Originally posted by jdwca
Hey, guys. Just lurking around here a bit.
Yeah, XRAY 30wt is around 50-55wt. in Trinity/Associated oil. I've never compared it to Losi. 60wt is a little too heavy for related use. I also generally prefer the XRAY oil to the Trinity equivalent. I find it to be a tick smoother and easier to work with.
As far as building the shocks, simply follow the instructions. I've built these shocks for a number of different kits. (Ask Tag, he's always getting me to build shocks for his cars.) They're actually really easy to build and super smooth. I never have air bubbles and generally I rebuild my shocks once a month.
Simply fill the shock to the top with the shock oil. Then, slowly push the piston almost to the top of its travel. Pull it back down very gently and then fill the rest of the body to the top with oil. Then, put the bladder on top (yes, some of the oil will overflow) and then put the shock cap on until it's fairly tight. Before you do ANYTHING, flip the shock upside down and compress a few times. The rebound will be too strong, SO, with the shock still upside down, you unscrew the bottom portion until it's off the shock body and then compress the shaft a few times until oil leaks out. Go ahead and screw the bottom cap back on and compress the shaft. You want very, very little rebound--if any. (I leave some in because inevitably the shocks lose some oil after a few runs.) Keep bleeding this way until you get the rebound you want. Remember, always keep the shock upside down when bleeding.
VOILA!--perfect XRAY shocks. Other than the Tamiya ones, they've been my favorite shocks to work with.
Hey, guys. Just lurking around here a bit.
Yeah, XRAY 30wt is around 50-55wt. in Trinity/Associated oil. I've never compared it to Losi. 60wt is a little too heavy for related use. I also generally prefer the XRAY oil to the Trinity equivalent. I find it to be a tick smoother and easier to work with.
As far as building the shocks, simply follow the instructions. I've built these shocks for a number of different kits. (Ask Tag, he's always getting me to build shocks for his cars.) They're actually really easy to build and super smooth. I never have air bubbles and generally I rebuild my shocks once a month.
Simply fill the shock to the top with the shock oil. Then, slowly push the piston almost to the top of its travel. Pull it back down very gently and then fill the rest of the body to the top with oil. Then, put the bladder on top (yes, some of the oil will overflow) and then put the shock cap on until it's fairly tight. Before you do ANYTHING, flip the shock upside down and compress a few times. The rebound will be too strong, SO, with the shock still upside down, you unscrew the bottom portion until it's off the shock body and then compress the shaft a few times until oil leaks out. Go ahead and screw the bottom cap back on and compress the shaft. You want very, very little rebound--if any. (I leave some in because inevitably the shocks lose some oil after a few runs.) Keep bleeding this way until you get the rebound you want. Remember, always keep the shock upside down when bleeding.
VOILA!--perfect XRAY shocks. Other than the Tamiya ones, they've been my favorite shocks to work with.
03-30-2005, 04:21 PM
#1310
kewdawg-ygpm, i like the new one!!!
03-30-2005, 04:28 PM
#1311
Yup. 'Tis messier for sure, but works extremely well every time.
I can echo everyone's comments here about the diffs being bone dry. Every previous diff I bought from XRAY came prelubed, but not the FK05 diffs. Both were completely dry and needed to be lubricated.
I just got off the phone with Justine at the RC Shack. She says the multidiff is still not due in for a couple more weeks. Anyone know any sites that actually have 'em in stock?
I can echo everyone's comments here about the diffs being bone dry. Every previous diff I bought from XRAY came prelubed, but not the FK05 diffs. Both were completely dry and needed to be lubricated.
I just got off the phone with Justine at the RC Shack. She says the multidiff is still not due in for a couple more weeks. Anyone know any sites that actually have 'em in stock?
03-30-2005, 04:28 PM
#1312
Originally posted by jdwca
60wt is a little too heavy for related use.
60wt is a little too heavy for related use.
Good thing Xray shocks have adjustable pistons.
03-30-2005, 05:25 PM
#1314
Originally posted by jdwca
Yeah, I usually run my pistons at #2 at Horsham. 40wt. XRAY feels and works like diff lube.
You could get away with it, but even with all that bite, you'll feel like you're running on top of the carpet--not a good feeling.
Yeah, I usually run my pistons at #2 at Horsham. 40wt. XRAY feels and works like diff lube.
You could get away with it, but even with all that bite, you'll feel like you're running on top of the carpet--not a good feeling.
03-30-2005, 05:30 PM
#1316
Originally posted by jdwca
Yup. 'Tis messier for sure, but works extremely well every time.
I can echo everyone's comments here about the diffs being bone dry. Every previous diff I bought from XRAY came prelubed, but not the FK05 diffs. Both were completely dry and needed to be lubricated.
I just got off the phone with Justine at the RC Shack. She says the multidiff is still not due in for a couple more weeks. Anyone know any sites that actually have 'em in stock?
Yup. 'Tis messier for sure, but works extremely well every time.
I can echo everyone's comments here about the diffs being bone dry. Every previous diff I bought from XRAY came prelubed, but not the FK05 diffs. Both were completely dry and needed to be lubricated.
I just got off the phone with Justine at the RC Shack. She says the multidiff is still not due in for a couple more weeks. Anyone know any sites that actually have 'em in stock?
03-30-2005, 05:40 PM
#1317
Tech Initiate
jdwca! Nice write up on the shocks. Thanks ...you have answered some of the questions I had in my mind...
I still think Tamiya shocks are probably the best in the business, but these XRAY shocks sure have potential.
Now if I can only get the shock lengths to be even!!!!! DAMNIT
I still think Tamiya shocks are probably the best in the business, but these XRAY shocks sure have potential.
Now if I can only get the shock lengths to be even!!!!! DAMNIT
03-30-2005, 05:53 PM
#1318
Originally posted by tminus3
jdwca! Nice write up on the shocks. Thanks ...you have answered some of the questions I had in my mind...
I still think Tamiya shocks are probably the best in the business, but these XRAY shocks sure have potential.
Now if I can only get the shock lengths to be even!!!!! DAMNIT
jdwca! Nice write up on the shocks. Thanks ...you have answered some of the questions I had in my mind...
I still think Tamiya shocks are probably the best in the business, but these XRAY shocks sure have potential.
Now if I can only get the shock lengths to be even!!!!! DAMNIT
03-30-2005, 05:53 PM
#1319
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
Originally posted by jdwca
Yup. 'Tis messier for sure, but works extremely well every time.
I can echo everyone's comments here about the diffs being bone dry. Every previous diff I bought from XRAY came prelubed, but not the FK05 diffs. Both were completely dry and needed to be lubricated.
I just got off the phone with Justine at the RC Shack. She says the multidiff is still not due in for a couple more weeks. Anyone know any sites that actually have 'em in stock?
Yup. 'Tis messier for sure, but works extremely well every time.
I can echo everyone's comments here about the diffs being bone dry. Every previous diff I bought from XRAY came prelubed, but not the FK05 diffs. Both were completely dry and needed to be lubricated.
I just got off the phone with Justine at the RC Shack. She says the multidiff is still not due in for a couple more weeks. Anyone know any sites that actually have 'em in stock?
Actually no place have the multi diff in stock. Rc America doesnt even have them yet.
03-30-2005, 06:11 PM
#1320
For building Xray shocks I bought a 3mm bottoming tap to pre-thread the shock ends. It makes installing them very easy and I had no problem getting them the same length. Plus you don’t have to worry about cracking the shock end. The key is to get a bottoming tap instead of a regular tap so that you can thread all the way to the bottom of the shock end. You can get one from McMaster Carr (www.McMaster.com). Hope this helps.
Eric
Eric