YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

They all have the potential to strip depending on the hardness of your tool if used improperly.

Stainless is least likely because it is stronger than steel but it is also heavier than steel.

Titanium is as strong as steel but it is lighter than steel.

Example: Weight Titanium < Steel < Stainless
Strength Titanium = Steel < Stainless

the_barbarian

iTrader: (3)

Dinball on ebay has a range of titanium screws
http://search.stores.ebay.com/Dinbal...095710QQsofpZ0

dogenia

Ok this is what I get from the great input from all you wonderful people on this board:

Stainless Steel is the way to go for hardness
Titanium is a lighter weight but the chance to strip is still there.
How about the black anodized screws that Xray sells for the original T1?
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...366&kategoria=

Now for the next question: What would be proper technique to get these screws out in one piece?

Iceracer

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you use a proper fit of screwdriver to avoid marring the heads. Try some different sizes. I could be wrong on this, but anything I've had that was titanium, seemed a good bit harder than aluminum, so I'm not sure its fair to lump them together as equally prone to stripping the heads.

I know the manual for my associated car says to use lubricant whenever a thread goes into aluminum, but dry for plastic parts.

You may be able to use a drill to remove the V of a countersunk head, separate the two parts, then work on the shaft that remains. There's likely not enough to slot and use a flat bladed driver, so you may have to file a flat on the shaft and use a mini vice-grip locking pliers. You may end up simply replacing / sacrificing the least expensive part.

RcCzarOfOld

To get out a stuck screw, put a few drops of WD-40 around the head and let that sit for a few. Then hold the tip of your soldering iron to the head of the screw for a few and it should come out pretty easily. However, if you've already stripped the head, use your dremel with a cutoff wheel and make a slot in the head of the screw and use a flat screwdriver after applying heat and WD. Also, you could get the corally screws and replace the hex heads of the Xray with those. The Torx head screws pretty much just plain don't strip.

Tony

woozer71

iTrader: (23)

Has anyone tried a 63t(48p) spur in 27turn stock and if so how did it go?

CarbonWorks

I'm not sure if there is still a worldwide shortage of FK05 2.5mm chassis', but I still manufacture an exact replacement. Precision CNC machined 2.5 mm quasi-isotropic carbon fiber. 65.00 shipped to the USA. Email me if interested. I will ship worldwide, but its more like 73.00. My chassis is exactly the same, but the battery slots have been revised to accept the 3800's and 4200's better.

Mike

[email protected]

mshap33

iTrader: (2)

blin check your pm

xray_griff

Sorry to have pulled the plug on the pictures, but this forum is too popular. Everyone who visited the page with this post saw pictures from www.teamxray.co.uk and we were having a large increase in bandwidth use.

Cheers
Griff

You can see the pictures at the following addresses. This way you can see the parts if you want to know what they look like, but those who know what they look like will save us bandwidth.

http://www.teamxray.co.uk/productdetail-305315.php
http://www.teamxray.co.uk/productdetail-303060.php
http://www.teamxray.co.uk/productdetail-306162.php
or now
http://www.teamxray.co.uk/productdetail-306163.php

dogenia

Hey guys I would appreciate some advise on gearing here.

Currently running 112x28 but out of the corners the car is a bit sluggish.
Personally I'm thinking go up to a 115x28 but what do you experts say?

Don

94_snake

iTrader: (9)

That will deffinetly give you a little more out of the corners, but if you have real long straights, you will top out a little earlier. How long are your straights and is it a technical or flowing track?

kerry

iTrader: (1)

what are you running foams, rubber? what motor?

dogenia

Sorry here goes the setup:
Xray FK05, 19 turn spec class, foam 26 mm 40 shore, treated track, long flowing straights, short parts technical. Mostly straights though. It takes bout half a straight to get up to speed, I would like maybe a fourth of the track to accomplish this feat?

Don

kerry

iTrader: (1)

peaking out around 1/2 way to 3/4 down the back straight should be about right.any sooner and you run the risk of over heating the motor. try to find out what the rollout of motor and tire size should be and adjust from there. if your not sure ask someone at the track what there gear ratio and rollout is using the same brand of motor and that should help you figure yours out. my suggestion and thats all it is would be to go up one pinion and see how that feels i always like my motors toping out 3/4 down the back straight. hope this helps

Iceracer

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone wrap their battery slots with insulating tape? Unnecessary overkill?