1LikesXray T1FK05
11-10-2005, 12:11 PM
#4561
Originally Posted by Mike Dumas
I don't understand why so many people are changing the shocks that come with the kit! The shocks are very easy to build, don't leak, adjustable with the clickers and reliable... If it isn't broke why fix it??? I know Ralph Burch, Jilles Groskamp, the Myberg brothers, Bobby Flack, Peter Robison, Jarrod Scott and myself all use the stock shocks that come with the car.
Btw, you forgot about that Hodapp guy. Sup' DUMAS!
11-10-2005, 12:15 PM
#4562
Originally Posted by MDawson
The only issue I have had are building shocks consistently with the correct rebound. That seems to be the tricky part. Any suggestions there?
Btw, you forgot about that Hodapp guy. Sup' DUMAS!
Btw, you forgot about that Hodapp guy. Sup' DUMAS!
Dito.
11-10-2005, 12:22 PM
#4563
the only prob that i have had with the shock, is the leaking issue, i used to rebuild them every other day. no matter what i tried, they always leaked from the shaft. Korgae Scales pointed me in the right direction, on how to build the perfect shock everytime. thanx Korgae (can west R/C)
11-10-2005, 12:22 PM
#4564
Originally Posted by Mike Dumas
I don't understand why so many people are changing the shocks that come with the kit! The shocks are very easy to build, don't leak, adjustable with the clickers and reliable... If it isn't broke why fix it??? I know Ralph Burch, Jilles Groskamp, the Myberg brothers, Bobby Flack, Peter Robison, Jarrod Scott and myself all use the stock shocks that come with the car.
11-10-2005, 12:26 PM
#4565
I've never had a performance issue with the stock shocks, but building them with equal rebound has always been an issue for me. I spent the better part of 2 hours building them in preparation for the Novak race this past January before I was satisfied with them. The shocks have always gone together well, and I've not had leakage issues with them (no worse than any other shock I've tried) but I dread rebuilding the ones I've got now.
I printed out Peter Robinson's recomendations for building them so we'll see how that works.
Rob
I printed out Peter Robinson's recomendations for building them so we'll see how that works.
Rob
11-10-2005, 12:33 PM
#4566
Originally Posted by Static_racing
Hey all, I'm running a FK05 with a stock motor, I have a 120T spur 58mm tires. I dont know if the internal ratio is still 1.7 or not. I have larger pullies on my diffs. What is a good starting point for roll-out and what pinion should i use? Thanks!
11-10-2005, 01:37 PM
#4567
I have said it once, and I will say it again. The Plastic shocks that come with the kit are the best shocks for the XRAY. Super smooth and if built correctly they do not leak.Time and time again I have outperformed metal shock bodies and serpent shock buyers, hands down. Please follow the directions closely you will be pleased, give them a chance.
The metal shock bodies require a little more attention, if you use them you have to make sure you use an xacto knife to get all the nipples off the piston, if not the nipples will rub againt the inside of the bodies and your shocks will be inconsistant, I have found the metal shocks to be a waste of money I could have spent $30 dollars on something else, right along with the serpent shocks. This is my opinion only and nothing against metal or serpent shock buyers. But performance outweights looks in all aspects of RC. Fact: The plastic shocks have put me on the podium every single time.
I cant believe how many post there have been about XRAY shocks. Will this ever end? We will have to wait and see.
The metal shock bodies require a little more attention, if you use them you have to make sure you use an xacto knife to get all the nipples off the piston, if not the nipples will rub againt the inside of the bodies and your shocks will be inconsistant, I have found the metal shocks to be a waste of money I could have spent $30 dollars on something else, right along with the serpent shocks. This is my opinion only and nothing against metal or serpent shock buyers. But performance outweights looks in all aspects of RC. Fact: The plastic shocks have put me on the podium every single time.
I cant believe how many post there have been about XRAY shocks. Will this ever end? We will have to wait and see.
11-10-2005, 01:54 PM
#4569
Originally Posted by Rob Mincey
I've never had a performance issue with the stock shocks, but building them with equal rebound has always been an issue for me. I spent the better part of 2 hours building them in preparation for the Novak race this past January before I was satisfied with them. The shocks have always gone together well, and I've not had leakage issues with them (no worse than any other shock I've tried) but I dread rebuilding the ones I've got now.
I printed out Peter Robinson's recomendations for building them so we'll see how that works.
Rob
I printed out Peter Robinson's recomendations for building them so we'll see how that works.
Rob
11-10-2005, 02:02 PM
#4570
Originally Posted by Rob Mincey
I've never had a performance issue with the stock shocks, but building them with equal rebound has always been an issue for me. I spent the better part of 2 hours building them in preparation for the Novak race this past January before I was satisfied with them. The shocks have always gone together well, and I've not had leakage issues with them (no worse than any other shock I've tried) but I dread rebuilding the ones I've got now.
I printed out Peter Robinson's recomendations for building them so we'll see how that works.
Rob
I printed out Peter Robinson's recomendations for building them so we'll see how that works.
Rob
Anybody please.
11-10-2005, 02:26 PM
#4571
Peeps here is a direct quote from Peter Robinson to me on how to build X-ray shocks, and it works great. Ever since following these instructions I have had no problems at all with my shocks.
Thank you Peter!!
1. put the bladders in the caps.
2. make sure the pistons are 4 holes open.
3. fill shock with oil.
4. pump the piston slowly up and down to get bubbles out.
5. wait a couple minutes.
6. push the pistons half way up so the oil in the body makes a little dome.
7. slowly screw the cap on.
8. wipe the oil and check the rebound, they should fully rebound, but slowly.
9. if you cant push the piston in, or they rebound too quick, crack the seal on the bottom of the shock (while holding the shock upside down) and push the shaft in, twist the cap back on, check the rebound again.
10. repeat step nine until all the shocks are the same. make sure the shocks are all 70.3-4mm, and your dialed
Its on page 148 also
Thank you Peter!!
1. put the bladders in the caps.
2. make sure the pistons are 4 holes open.
3. fill shock with oil.
4. pump the piston slowly up and down to get bubbles out.
5. wait a couple minutes.
6. push the pistons half way up so the oil in the body makes a little dome.
7. slowly screw the cap on.
8. wipe the oil and check the rebound, they should fully rebound, but slowly.
9. if you cant push the piston in, or they rebound too quick, crack the seal on the bottom of the shock (while holding the shock upside down) and push the shaft in, twist the cap back on, check the rebound again.
10. repeat step nine until all the shocks are the same. make sure the shocks are all 70.3-4mm, and your dialed
Its on page 148 also
11-10-2005, 02:37 PM
#4572
Originally Posted by imprsme
Peeps here is a direct quote from Peter Robinson to me on how to build X-ray shocks, and it works great. Ever since following these instructions I have had no problems at all with my shocks.
Thank you Peter!!
1. put the bladders in the caps.
2. make sure the pistons are 4 holes open.
3. fill shock with oil.
4. pump the piston slowly up and down to get bubbles out.
5. wait a couple minutes.
6. push the pistons half way up so the oil in the body makes a little dome.
7. slowly screw the cap on.
8. wipe the oil and check the rebound, they should fully rebound, but slowly.
9. if you cant push the piston in, or they rebound too quick, crack the seal on the bottom of the shock (while holding the shock upside down) and push the shaft in, twist the cap back on, check the rebound again.
10. repeat step nine until all the shocks are the same. make sure the shocks are all 70.3-4mm, and your dialed
Its on page 148 also
Thank you Peter!!
1. put the bladders in the caps.
2. make sure the pistons are 4 holes open.
3. fill shock with oil.
4. pump the piston slowly up and down to get bubbles out.
5. wait a couple minutes.
6. push the pistons half way up so the oil in the body makes a little dome.
7. slowly screw the cap on.
8. wipe the oil and check the rebound, they should fully rebound, but slowly.
9. if you cant push the piston in, or they rebound too quick, crack the seal on the bottom of the shock (while holding the shock upside down) and push the shaft in, twist the cap back on, check the rebound again.
10. repeat step nine until all the shocks are the same. make sure the shocks are all 70.3-4mm, and your dialed
Its on page 148 also
11-10-2005, 05:26 PM
#4574
shocks?
define good? I have had my JRX-S shocks on my TC4 and now my Xray for over six months. I took them apart for the first time and they were still perfect, no air bubbles, oil was clean and they all still rebound perfectly the same. That is what I call good. Building shocks every two three weeks, no thanks.
Last edited by RCknight; 11-10-2005 at 06:23 PM.
11-10-2005, 07:33 PM
#4575
Tech Master
Thanks john, I have a 30 Tooth in it now, if thats too hot I'll make adjustments. The Brood race is at Mimi's on Sat and I have 2 new Experss motors and 2 "Extreme" stock packs. I couldnt believe the voltage these things were coming off at. I can't wait for people to ask, "what the hell you got in that thang?"- 
