HRCRACER123

iTrader: (33)

Hey Guys. Whats the easiest way to bevel out the battery slots. I know to use a file or sandpaper.

Is there an easy way to mark out where it needs to be filed down. Like putting paint or something on the bottom of a battery and then putting it in the car and cutting out where the paint is or something like that?

xrcbuggy

Where is a good place (on line shop) in US to get this car, Stormer & Speedtech both are out of stock.

Speedo

I think you're pretty much out of luck for a couple weeks. Stormer was the last place I know of that had kits, but they're gone now.

Josh

Bob Nilsen

iTrader: (1)

I'd heard that T&T here in Dallas had 'em pretty recently:

http://tnthobbies.isgcomm.com/RaceFormat.htm

Roberto Falcon

iTrader: (18)

I have my 05 for sale ... take a look, http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=89041

dado11g

iTrader: (1)

oops, repost

sharkman

iTrader: (18)

Maximus hobbies has them in stock, they have the new kits with the 3 and 2mm chassis.

www.teammaximus.com

cvt01

iTrader: (2)

I tested the serpent shocks yesterday with 57mm foam tires. I can go as low as 4mm in the rear. 4.5 in the front (using foam shock tower). The shocks were assembledin "stock" condition with the original collars. So they fit no problem.

When you measure ride height make sure that the car is in ready to run condition (motor+batteries mounted)

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

Xray belts wear out fast? I wish Xray would make their belts last as long as Losi or Tamiya

whitelazer1

has anyone had any problems with the chassis breaking in the front?...... ......i know i need to stop hitting stuff but man this is the secound chassis ive broken? And i have a pud-dub bumper......is there any i can do to the chassis?.....i sanded it with a dremel and ca'ed and it still broke.....by the way i ran on carpet only....thanks

howard hudson

kinda answered your own question

gee-dub

iTrader: (1)

i'm getting some normal wear & tear from the chassis plate scraping on the ground (very abbrasive asphalt), but as far as cracking the chassis, this thing is a tank. if you have pics, i'd be very in seeing where you are breaking at. the front bumper is somewhat cleverly designed with a molded guard (rib) at the front most portion of the chassis to absorb the impact where the car is going over an obstacle.

HRCRACER123

iTrader: (33)

Whitelazer. You are not alone. First off lose the p-dub bumper. It is too hard and puts too much pressure on the nose of the chassis. I have split 3 myself and about every other gut at my track has the same problem including even a gut with a brand new BMI chassis!!! This is a major problem!!! Its the screws that are coming thru the chassis causing it to split. Best advice, ca the countersunk holes and use screws with bigger heads.

I am thinkinh about switching to a corally at least their chassis dont split. And before anyone bashes me about" stop hiting stuff" just remember people do make mistakes and hit a board going thru a tight chicane sometimes. We are not pro level drivers.

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

If you guys would just use the two outter screws in the chassis like was posted earlier in this thread you wouldnt crack the chassis at all or break any front end parts because you can still use the P dub bumper. Just leave out the middle screw in the bumper. It will allow it to flex enough not to break.

EA

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Yea but if your breaking a chassis now you'll be breaking 5 arms a week with the corally!! I seen a lot of very good drivers break the corally this past weekend!! Arms are the weak part of that car. And they arent much cheaper than an xray chassis

EA