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Old 10-20-2005, 10:55 AM   #4201
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Default adjustable top deck

Anyone have a problem with the length of bolts provided for the belt tensioner in the top deck up grade kit? All three rounded bolts where the same length, great for the ali straps X2, but the remaining bolt is too short to screw into the tensioner.
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Old 10-20-2005, 01:04 PM   #4202
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thank you so much!
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Old 10-20-2005, 05:15 PM   #4203
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does anyone have a link to the online manual for the S960

trying to build the serpent rear shocks and would like to make sure everything is where it needs to be
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Old 10-20-2005, 06:05 PM   #4204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris08527
does anyone have a link to the online manual for the S960

trying to build the serpent rear shocks and would like to make sure everything is where it needs to be
The S960 manual doesn't say much as I recall. I just used the instructions listed here:

"Building the S960 Tips & Tricks Part 3"

Copied below for convenience:

SHOCK ASSEMBLY
Assemble all four shocks as follows:

1. Unthread the shock insert from the bottom of the shock body.

2. Clean out the shock body with motor spray and a paper towel.

3. Pour shock oil onto the foam on each plastic insert and spread the oil onto the foam. Repeat as necessary until the foam is saturated with oil. This will help to eliminate air bubbles that may otherwise enter the shock.

4. Invert the shock body and fill SLOWLY with shock oil until the oil reaches the 2nd top thread.

5. Place the shock body in a vacuum pump shock bleeder to remove air bubbles from the shock oil.

6. Place the bled shock bodies inverted in a shock assembly stand.

7. Pull the shockrod out all the way of the plastic insert.

8. Insert the shock piston into the shock body, and thread in the plastic insert by 1-1/2 turns. BE CAREFUL not to cross-thread the plastic insert!

9. Push the shock rod so the piston goes 1/2 way into the shock body. Oil will come out the shock body bleed channels.

10. Carefully thread the plastic insert all the way into the shock body. DO NOT overtighten or you may strip the threads.

11. Check the shock operation by slowly and smoothly moving the shockrod in and out. The operation should be smooth without any "gurgling" by air bubbles. After you fully compress the shockrod, it should rebound approximately 1/2 way when released.


SHOCK LENGTH ADJUSTMENT
Make sure the shock top nut is tight.

Adjust the length of the shock by using the plastic ball-joint at the bottom of the shockrod. Be careful not to damage the shockrod when you grip it; use either a tool specifically designed for gripping a shock rod, or use a pair of side cutters.
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Old 10-21-2005, 06:01 PM   #4205
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I know people have had a lot of trouble with the Xray aluminum C-hubs bending. Has anyone had similar problems with the outboard toe blocks? I plan on buying a set, but don't know whether to go for the Tamale or Xray ones.

Josh
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Old 10-21-2005, 06:41 PM   #4206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo
I know people have had a lot of trouble with the Xray aluminum C-hubs bending. Has anyone had similar problems with the outboard toe blocks? I plan on buying a set, but don't know whether to go for the Tamale or Xray ones.

Josh

I am using rear OB toe blocks for about a month now, so far no problem.

I was never a fan of aluminum caster blocks anyway, no matter who makes it. Once it bent your car will be tweak and you would never know. Sure you will finish the heat but worth it? Your call!

Stick with the original on the caster blocks.
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:17 PM   #4207
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Think I'll go with the Tamale ones as I like the company. They should be pretty much identical, I would think.

Are the 2-deg. blocks the way to go? Most foam setups on carpet seem to use the 2-deg. blocks. I don't really want to have to buy more than one set of these

Josh
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:21 PM   #4208
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i would suggest to go with the 3 degree tamale ones. ive had mine for almost a year now, and i have my share of hard hits, and they havent bent a single bit. i would suggest them to anyone, its worth the money (at least it was for me with how much i broke the plastic ones...).
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:22 PM   #4209
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The Team Tamale stuff is awesome! I haven't had any problems with any of his aluminum stuff bending...
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:23 PM   #4210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo
I know people have had a lot of trouble with the Xray aluminum C-hubs bending. Has anyone had similar problems with the outboard toe blocks? I plan on buying a set, but don't know whether to go for the Tamale or Xray ones.

Josh
Hey Josh. The Xray outboard blocks are fine and their pretty much the same weight as Tamales, but since my Tamale chubs are pretty much bullet proof, and always on key when on the Hudy system, I would lean towards their outboard toe blocks as well.
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:24 PM   #4211
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Making sure everything is straight here.. 2* rear hubs, 3* caster blocks... correct?
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:27 PM   #4212
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ya, my bad, i thought you were speaking about the chubs
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:43 PM   #4213
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I have a set of the Tamale 4.5 deg C-hubs which are awesome.

After looking over some of the setups on Xray's website, it looks like the 1.5 deg rear hubs are more popular so I think I'll go that route.

Josh
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Old 10-21-2005, 09:03 PM   #4214
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Thanks guys for the nice comments. I really appreciate it. It makes those long hours at night in my shop worth it.
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Old 10-21-2005, 09:12 PM   #4215
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no, thank you for making the awesome product!
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