Xray T1FK05
#4051

looking for a little help . . alot of help yet once again
maybe i just should have a got a FT TC4 . . .
i have about a 2mm ride height diff. from the rear to the front (rear 7mm front 5mm) and the shock collars on the rear shocks are all the way up
i have the hinge pins mounted into the middle of the bulkheads on the fron and rear
so why do i have this 2mm rake on the car???
maybe i just should have a got a FT TC4 . . .

i have about a 2mm ride height diff. from the rear to the front (rear 7mm front 5mm) and the shock collars on the rear shocks are all the way up
i have the hinge pins mounted into the middle of the bulkheads on the fron and rear
so why do i have this 2mm rake on the car???
#4053

thanks larry i will check onthat stuff
i am running a BMI chasis so i do not know which front tower it comes with looks pretty close to the stock tower???
i am running a BMI chasis so i do not know which front tower it comes with looks pretty close to the stock tower???
#4055

right now i have 58mm on it the rear droop was set at 6 and the front 2
#4056
Tech Regular

Thx Dotman for the help on the GM3. I just ordered the PDub from their web site.

#4057

the bottom brace is still needed no matter what bumper is used..
i have split a 3mm chassis, mainly because of a hard crash but it was made worse because of how thick the chassis is, the brace sits to high where it mounts to the chassis, so the chassis is daylighting on the bottom. When the brace gets some impact it impacts the chassis midpoint causing it to split. I guess filing away the brace to allow the chassis to sit flush with the brace might work.. (this is with the 3mm chassis.
i have split a 3mm chassis, mainly because of a hard crash but it was made worse because of how thick the chassis is, the brace sits to high where it mounts to the chassis, so the chassis is daylighting on the bottom. When the brace gets some impact it impacts the chassis midpoint causing it to split. I guess filing away the brace to allow the chassis to sit flush with the brace might work.. (this is with the 3mm chassis.
#4059

Bevel the edge on the front to eliminate the sharp edges when using the 3mm chassis.
#4060

looking for a little help . . alot of help yet once again
maybe i just should have a got a FT TC4 . . .
i have about a 2mm ride height diff. from the rear to the front (rear 7mm front 5mm) and the shock collars on the rear shocks are all the way up
i have the hinge pins mounted into the middle of the bulkheads on the fron and rear
so why do i have this 2mm rake on the car???
maybe i just should have a got a FT TC4 . . .
i have about a 2mm ride height diff. from the rear to the front (rear 7mm front 5mm) and the shock collars on the rear shocks are all the way up
i have the hinge pins mounted into the middle of the bulkheads on the fron and rear
so why do i have this 2mm rake on the car???
It needs to be like this . . .
H__________H <---Suspension holders
and not like this . . .
._________
H ...........H
#4062

The stock plastic shocks are super good and buttery-smooth on the XRAY. I rebuild mine frequently and it takes me all of fifteen minutes to properly build and bleed them. I think I and/or TeamGP have written posts before on how to properly maintain/build the shocks if you look back in the XRAY forum history.
The hype about the Serpent shocks is partially true: they are kind of a hot item right now. (They look trick to boot.) A bunch of the guys were using them down at the Nats. The only negative is that they require you to use regular pistons.
I personally have gotten spoiled making small on-the-fly adjustments with the adjustable pistons.
The hype about the Serpent shocks is partially true: they are kind of a hot item right now. (They look trick to boot.) A bunch of the guys were using them down at the Nats. The only negative is that they require you to use regular pistons.
I personally have gotten spoiled making small on-the-fly adjustments with the adjustable pistons.

Last edited by Jon Williams; 10-14-2005 at 12:15 AM.
#4063

Chris - if nothing else works, buy the TC3/4 shock collars. They will allow you to lower the car further and should get rid of the ride height issue.
#4065

Originally Posted by Jon Williams
The stock plastic shocks are super good and buttery-smooth on the XRAY. I rebuild mine frequently and it takes me all of fifteen minutes to properly build and bleed them. I think I and/or TeamGP have written posts before on how to properly maintain/build the shocks if you look back in the XRAY forum history.
The hype about the Serpent shocks is partially true: they are kind of a hot item right now. (They look trick to boot.) A bunch of the guys were using them down at the Nats. The only negative is that they require you to use regular pistons.
I personally have gotten spoiled making small on-the-fly adjustments with the adjustable pistons.
The hype about the Serpent shocks is partially true: they are kind of a hot item right now. (They look trick to boot.) A bunch of the guys were using them down at the Nats. The only negative is that they require you to use regular pistons.
I personally have gotten spoiled making small on-the-fly adjustments with the adjustable pistons.

sometimes my car would just suddenly handle like a dogs back side and i wouldnt know why, turns out it is the pistons that kept changing.
i now just use fixed #2 pistons and don't change them at all (2 reasons, 1) cant be bothered, 2)i dont see them making as much difference as other things)....
anyway, each to their own...i know some people that love the adjustables but then others that dislike them like i do.