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Old 10-13-2005, 05:10 PM   #4051
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looking for a little help . . alot of help yet once again

maybe i just should have a got a FT TC4 . . .

i have about a 2mm ride height diff. from the rear to the front (rear 7mm front 5mm) and the shock collars on the rear shocks are all the way up

i have the hinge pins mounted into the middle of the bulkheads on the fron and rear

so why do i have this 2mm rake on the car???
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:13 PM   #4052
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Make sure the shock collars are pushed all the way on the shockends, it can be tough the first time.

Also screw your rear shock ends on all the way. Are you running a carpet tower in the front?
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:17 PM   #4053
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thanks larry i will check onthat stuff

i am running a BMI chasis so i do not know which front tower it comes with looks pretty close to the stock tower???
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:24 PM   #4054
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Ok what size tires are you running. What is your droop set at. That might be the problem. You want basically no downtravel for foams.
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:26 PM   #4055
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right now i have 58mm on it the rear droop was set at 6 and the front 2
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:38 PM   #4056
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Thx Dotman for the help on the GM3. I just ordered the PDub from their web site.
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:55 PM   #4057
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the bottom brace is still needed no matter what bumper is used..

i have split a 3mm chassis, mainly because of a hard crash but it was made worse because of how thick the chassis is, the brace sits to high where it mounts to the chassis, so the chassis is daylighting on the bottom. When the brace gets some impact it impacts the chassis midpoint causing it to split. I guess filing away the brace to allow the chassis to sit flush with the brace might work.. (this is with the 3mm chassis.
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Old 10-13-2005, 06:00 PM   #4058
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The wider bottom brace is definatley not needed with the pdub bumper. Almost no one in my area runs one with the pdub bumper and I have not seen a split chassis yet. And were talking 20-30 guys.
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Old 10-13-2005, 06:03 PM   #4059
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Bevel the edge on the front to eliminate the sharp edges when using the 3mm chassis.
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Old 10-13-2005, 09:28 PM   #4060
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Quote:
looking for a little help . . alot of help yet once again

maybe i just should have a got a FT TC4 . . .

i have about a 2mm ride height diff. from the rear to the front (rear 7mm front 5mm) and the shock collars on the rear shocks are all the way up

i have the hinge pins mounted into the middle of the bulkheads on the fron and rear

so why do i have this 2mm rake on the car???
Make sure your suspension arm holders are holding the inner hinge pin below the suspension holder. I dont know if it is possible to swap them upside down, but that would create the situation you're explaining.

It needs to be like this . . .

H__________H <---Suspension holders

and not like this . . .

._________
H ...........H
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Old 10-13-2005, 09:35 PM   #4061
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Hey Andrew, Listen to Larry. He's hella fast!

Sup Larry, I can't wait to get back over to Horsham. Nothing like running on a weekly basis with up to 5 potential National A mainers!!! (this is why I end up in the B )
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Old 10-14-2005, 01:03 AM   #4062
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The stock plastic shocks are super good and buttery-smooth on the XRAY. I rebuild mine frequently and it takes me all of fifteen minutes to properly build and bleed them. I think I and/or TeamGP have written posts before on how to properly maintain/build the shocks if you look back in the XRAY forum history.

The hype about the Serpent shocks is partially true: they are kind of a hot item right now. (They look trick to boot.) A bunch of the guys were using them down at the Nats. The only negative is that they require you to use regular pistons.

I personally have gotten spoiled making small on-the-fly adjustments with the adjustable pistons.

Last edited by Jon Williams; 10-14-2005 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 10-14-2005, 01:47 AM   #4063
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Chris - if nothing else works, buy the TC3/4 shock collars. They will allow you to lower the car further and should get rid of the ride height issue.
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Old 10-14-2005, 01:52 AM   #4064
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It's all good, guys. Chris called me last night (he's a friend who runs locally), and I went over it with him. If he doesn't get it on his own, I'll see him tomorrow at the track.
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Old 10-14-2005, 02:09 AM   #4065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Williams
The stock plastic shocks are super good and buttery-smooth on the XRAY. I rebuild mine frequently and it takes me all of fifteen minutes to properly build and bleed them. I think I and/or TeamGP have written posts before on how to properly maintain/build the shocks if you look back in the XRAY forum history.

The hype about the Serpent shocks is partially true: they are kind of a hot item right now. (They look trick to boot.) A bunch of the guys were using them down at the Nats. The only negative is that they require you to use regular pistons.

I personally have gotten spoiled making small on-the-fly adjustments with the adjustable pistons.
don't you find the adjustables sometimes just randomly change part way through a race?

sometimes my car would just suddenly handle like a dogs back side and i wouldnt know why, turns out it is the pistons that kept changing.

i now just use fixed #2 pistons and don't change them at all (2 reasons, 1) cant be bothered, 2)i dont see them making as much difference as other things)....

anyway, each to their own...i know some people that love the adjustables but then others that dislike them like i do.
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