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Old 09-25-2005, 01:19 PM   #3721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brians11
whats different?
It's looks like new bulkheads - hotbodies/yokomo BD/415MSX style? :-)
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Old 09-25-2005, 03:40 PM   #3722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by munrath
But like a few have said the car is really durable.

Mark
I think we PROVED that Saturday night
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Old 09-25-2005, 05:24 PM   #3723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by komkit
I think we PROVED that Saturday night
im can be a rough driver at times and i havent broken anything yet
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Old 09-25-2005, 09:30 PM   #3724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Szimon
It's looks like new bulkheads - hotbodies/yokomo BD/415MSX style? :-)

anyone have any pics on the new bulkheads?? will it be sold as a hop-up??
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Old 09-25-2005, 10:08 PM   #3725
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Just thought I would introduce myself. Just bought an 05 today. Previosly an associated tc4 guy. I still have the tc4 so my wife can come to the track and drive with me. Prepare for a million questions as I build the car this week. Any good links to read through before taking this on?

Andrew
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Old 09-25-2005, 10:37 PM   #3726
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teamxray.com
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Old 09-26-2005, 05:01 AM   #3727
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anthing more specific? Such as "such n such page in teh xray forums"? I have already perused their site, but if you dont know where to go its too much information for a new 05 owner. my .02

Andrew
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Old 09-26-2005, 08:44 AM   #3728
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Go to the forum, XRAY T1, FAQ (the 5th one down), a good place to start.
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Old 09-26-2005, 09:32 AM   #3729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dado11g
you need the 120 for carpet stock!!!. i love it with a 28-30 on my monster depending on how it feels that day . as for the 19t's get a 112 or 114. 35- 112 works great on my reedys.
Keep in mind that the larger the spur gear, the finer the ratio adjustments you can make to find the motors sweet spot for your car on a particular track.

For race days on a new track or with a new setup, I use a 120 spur with the standard 2.5mm chassis on carpet, since ROAR rules exclude the spur in the minimum ride height rule. The ratio difference for each tooth on the pinion from spurs of 120 and 112 teeth is large enough to make a difference.

However for weekly club racing on the same layout and with the same setup, once I find the gearing (using a 120t spur) that produces the best lap times, I'll match the same ratio with a smaller spur/pinion combination to reduce drivetrain weight.
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Old 09-26-2005, 09:35 AM   #3730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Just thought I would introduce myself. Just bought an 05 today. Previosly an associated tc4 guy. I still have the tc4 so my wife can come to the track and drive with me. Prepare for a million questions as I build the car this week. Any good links to read through before taking this on?

Andrew
The XRAY forum FAQ thread (both pages) and Tech Articles thread should help.
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Old 09-26-2005, 09:43 AM   #3731
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You run a 4 tooth smaller gear becasue of weight? You must be really good to feel a .0001 gram difference in the drivetrain.
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Old 09-26-2005, 09:46 AM   #3732
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Wish I could have made Vegas...

But in the spirit of the event, we kicked off our local indoor season this past Saturday.

Interestingly, the shortest wheel base, with all spacers behind the arm, worked great this weekend for the new stock/19t/foam/carpet/one-way baseline setup I was able to dial in on the FK05. The cars speed was on A main pace with the fourth fastest lap time per driver (10.138) of the day.

However, my driving was rusty from 5 weeks of not touching the M8 and I mistakenly swapped the right front (plaid) and rear (magenta) tires in the last qualifier. The car worked decent for three laps until the tires warmed up fully. Then after six laps of trying to "lightly" turn left and avoid oversteer, I pulled over and dialed down the left EPA 30 points. Surprisingly, I went on to post a few 10.3's and 10.4's before deciding to take the car off the track early to find and fix the problem before the main.

In the B main, the old worn chassis I had cracked and CA'd previously during asphalt season didn't hold in the end. I started from pole, made a mistake on the 6th lap that cost me 3 seconds and allowed the #2 car to catch up. We had a great battle for 1st for awhile, but I believe the front bumper must have started to separate from the chassis and nullify the effect of the 2mm front anti-roll bar I was using. With each lap, the front end became more and more inconsistent with intermittent and very quick initial oversteer that would cause me to clip the apex or even run directly into the slappers. The bumper finally came off on the 23rd lap and used the anti-roll bar to compress the springs and push both front wheels up into the wheel wells.

However, things look very positive for this setup seeing as I used a lot of old worn parts and only tried a few setup tweeks during an afternoon of practice on Friday. I'll be rebuilding the car with a few new parts in the next two weeks and there's a few more carpet spec parts and setup tweeks to test. I believe I should be able to reduce the lap times by half a second with more testing and practice time.
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Old 09-26-2005, 09:49 AM   #3733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace
You run a 4 tooth smaller gear becasue of weight? You must be really good to feel a .0001 gram difference in the drivetrain.
I didn't say I felt a difference. I'm just a detailed (or whatever other word you would like to use ) fanatic. You'd be surprised where you can shave weight from, and anything from the drivetrain is a plus.

The difference is actually closer to 1 to 2 grams, depending on material, when you include the weight shaved from both the spur and the pinion.
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Old 09-26-2005, 11:14 AM   #3734
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hey how loose do you guys run your belts. Right now I only run 19T and I run the belts one notch looser in the front & rear than what the manuel says.

How does it work? The looser the belt the free'er the drive train?
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Old 09-26-2005, 11:59 AM   #3735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HRCRACER123
hey how loose do you guys run your belts. Right now I only run 19T and I run the belts one notch looser in the front & rear than what the manuel says.

How does it work? The looser the belt the free'er the drive train?
Stk: front - last notch, rear - last notch (loosest)
19t: front - two notches looser from center, rear - last notch (loosest)
mod: front - center notch, rear - one notch looser from center

If the belt has stretched from running mod and I switch back to stock or 19t, then I'll move one notch closer to center to take up the extra slack, but still let it droop some in between the pulleys.
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