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Xray T1FK05

Old 09-23-2005, 06:45 AM
  #3706  
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Originally Posted by motorhead
so one way is better on carpit/ correct
It all depends on your driving style and preference on using brakes to pass on the inside.

If you prefer to use more track and round the corners with high corner speeds, then the one way is best. But in order to pass others, you'll probably have to either pass them on corner exits, or on the inside if they leave you enough room. You can setup the car to be able to use a small amount of braking (turn down the brake EPA on your transmitter and dial in more off-power rear traction with things like rear toe-in, slightly layed down rear shocks, anti-squat or softer rear tire compound) without loosing traction. But in my experience it takes a lot of time to fine tune the setup to work well everywhere and still provide enough rear traction when applying the brakes with a one way. One-ways are becoming a little more popular in the stock class.

If you prefer charging corners, trail braking up to the apex and turning the car sharply towards the next corner before accelerating, then a diff would work best. Its easier to setup, drive consistently and pass others with this type of setup on carpet. With low wind mod motors, a diff will be much easier to drive as well.
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Old 09-23-2005, 06:57 AM
  #3707  
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude
Hi,

I'm just looking to see if anyone has some experience in setting the 05 up with more turning speed. It says on the Xray site that the optional rear toe in hubs helps gain more rearend turning speed. Anyone tried this yet?

Also, I am currently running stock with a oneway. I would like to know what do I need to do to set my car up for 19T or brushless mod.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
The aluminum rear hubs with built-in "out-board" toe in make the rear end more consistent through the corner, which allows you to stiffen the rear suspension setup slightly. This combination will allow the rear to predictably rotate better for faster corner speeds. I was able to raise the rear ride height, decrease the rear toe-in and use harder compound rear tires after switching to the new rear hubs.

Making sure your rear diff is built correctly and loose (without slipping) will increase your corner speed as well.

You might want to search the XRAY forum setup sheet section for ideas on setup. Select the FK05 from the "Search by model" drop down list and then select the appropriate "Track" and "Tire" filters that show up at the bottom.
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Old 09-23-2005, 07:04 AM
  #3708  
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Originally Posted by tc-3maniac
Just shave slightly more into the arms. I had to dremel perhaps one mm into the arm above and beyond the arm's protrusion, and the shocks clear perfectly.

-Matt
You'll need to shave an extra 1 to 1.5 mm into the arm. This is a common mod and does not weaken the medium or hard arms to the point of any bad handling effects.

I personally shave the blocks off flush, with a slight angle where the holes are, and use the inner holes for the shocks.
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Old 09-23-2005, 07:10 AM
  #3709  
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Originally Posted by teamgp
The aluminum rear hubs with built-in "out-board" toe in make the rear end more consistent through the corner, which allows you to stiffen the rear suspension setup slightly. This combination will allow the rear to predictably rotate better for faster corner speeds. I was able to raise the rear ride height, decrease the rear toe-in and use harder compound rear tires after switching to the new rear hubs.

Making sure your rear diff is built correctly and loose (without slipping) will increase your corner speed as well.

You might want to search the XRAY forum setup sheet section for ideas on setup. Select the FK05 from the "Search by model" drop down list and then select the appropriate "Track" and "Tire" filters that show up at the bottom.
Hey Teamgp when ruunning the rear 2 degree hubs what amount of inboard toe in do you retain ?
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Old 09-23-2005, 08:41 AM
  #3710  
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Originally Posted by acutts
Hey Teamgp when ruunning the rear 2 degree hubs what amount of inboard toe in do you retain ?
I try to keep it at 0 or .5 degrees (if I need 1.5 or 2.5 degress of total rear toe in), except when I need to run 3 degrees of total rear toe in on low grip asphalt. I'll be testing soon with 2 degree rear hubs and 1 degree of in-board toe out for a total of 1 degree rear toe in to see the effects on both the setup station and the track.
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Old 09-23-2005, 04:57 PM
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need gear suggestions
FK-05with 120 spur
Tires at 58

monster
c2
reedy quad

Thanks
Dayton

Track is 78x37 feet
fast and flowing
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Old 09-23-2005, 05:34 PM
  #3712  
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Originally Posted by 1armed1
need gear suggestions
FK-05with 120 spur
Tires at 58

monster
c2
reedy quad

Thanks
Dayton

Track is 78x37 feet
fast and flowing
First things first u need to go down to a 112 spur gear, with that i suggest using a 26 pinion that will help u drastically
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Old 09-23-2005, 05:43 PM
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120 spur is too big for the car. The biggest spur is 116 to fit into the chassis without sticking below the chassis.

I run 112 and 116.
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Old 09-23-2005, 05:53 PM
  #3714  
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you need the 120 for carpet stock!!!. i love it with a 28-30 on my monster depending on how it feels that day . as for the 19t's get a 112 or 114. 35- 112 works great on my reedys.
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Old 09-23-2005, 05:55 PM
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btw, it doesnt matter if the gear sticks out 1mm on carpet... as long as it isnt asphalt. how often does the middle of you chassis hit the ground??? mine only hits on the edges.
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Old 09-23-2005, 06:17 PM
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120 sticks out the bottom about .025", no problem.
Thanks for the info guys
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Old 09-24-2005, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 1armed1
120 sticks out the bottom about .025", no problem.
Thanks for the info guys
i guess it will work for carpet
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Old 09-25-2005, 12:06 PM
  #3718  
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nvm, I went and looked at my car and they are look identical....maybe.

Last edited by mtc3od; 09-25-2005 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 09-25-2005, 12:09 PM
  #3719  
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whats different?
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Old 09-25-2005, 12:15 PM
  #3720  
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It may be the angle but the diff looks like it is back to the other side. The bulkhead looks a little diff also to me. It could be the lexan
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