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Old 08-26-2005, 06:03 PM   #3346
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When is a good time to add front arm sweep and what does it do.
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Old 08-26-2005, 06:39 PM   #3347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Tag
When is a good time to add front arm sweep and what does it do.
If you're referring to using spacers in between the forward arm pin holders and the bulkheads to sweep the arms back like a wing, this would be in-board front toe-out.

The main effect is that the slant of the arms, when coupled with the caster slant of the c-hubs and the turning motion of the steering blocks, will make the inside front wheels camber gain move in the opposite direction of the outside front wheel. Basically, the inside wheel will start to gain positive camber while the outside gains negative camber and both wheels will start to lean into the corner. The result is more steering throughout the entire corner as you have a greater cumulative tire contact patch from both wheels. You don't start to see the effects much until you reach 3 degress of casterj. And the more caster you have the more the positive camber gain you'll see on the inside tire.

I've been using this setup option to give me enough steering to counteract the effects of running a 2mm front roll bar. The end result is a front end that stays VERY flat in the corners, but has a lot of steering both on and off-power. The advantage is a lightning quick front end that is responsive and glued to the track, but not twitchy if you adjust the "corrected" front toe to 0 via the steering rods.

The key to using this front setup with the fk05's light rear end is running a progressive rate rear spring setup. You want it fairly soft initially so that the rear will roll quickly and allow some weight transfer to the rear on corner entry, but you want it to stiffen quickly around the point of compression where the rear end will still have enough height to keep weight on the front axle and provide good mid corner and exit steering.

I learned this the hard way last weekend when my car started doing 180's in the hairpins because I hadn't counted on the grip coming up so much between the Friday practice and my 15th qualifying round on race day. The front literally became one with the track and the rear was left to fight for traction. I didn't make any big changes until after the same performance in the second round. With one round left, I went for broke and layed my rear shocks down one hole (slightly more than the front) and put on CS22's in the rear. The car was hooked then, but I was half a second off the pace because I had too much grip and roll in the rear around the sweepers. So I gambled between the two changes for the main and kept the 22's, but stood the shocks back up a hole. The problem was that the track is indoor with AC and it took 1 minute for the 22's to heat up enough to give me the right amount of rear traction. Then the car came alive and I was able to run fast enough to pass others, even though I was already a lap down from the 1 minute speed bump era.
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Old 08-26-2005, 06:41 PM   #3348
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anyone selling a KO vfs-1??? http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=82193

thanks
marshal v.
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Old 08-26-2005, 06:54 PM   #3349
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Thanks GP, Yea Fredrick was cool..MY car was awsome just 1 mistake cost me the A main in stock touring. I had a set up for outdoors that used front sweep and never tried it there..Just wish I did now as my car was a TICK tight but easy to drive. Just never understood arm sweep till now just ran it. Thanks for your help. I had a White/Orange/maroon and yellow body at Frederick you might rember it. I pitted in the back room.
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:47 PM   #3350
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i need a suggestion for a pinion to use on my 9x1 v2 motor with a 112 spur on it. i tried a 26 but it was over geared, and i dont want to be buying too many pinions on my small budget.

thanks
marshal v.
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:51 PM   #3351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dado11g
i need a suggestion for a pinion to use on my 9x1 v2 motor with a 112 spur on it. i tried a 26 but it was over geared, and i dont want to be buying too many pinions on my small budget.

thanks
marshal v.
dont mean to be harsh. But if you cant afford pinions maybe you should stick with stock or 19t. Mod wears parts and tires fast.

not trying to be a d_ _ k head
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Old 08-26-2005, 11:18 PM   #3352
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Guy- if you don't mind I'll give u a little hard learned advice. Whenever possible don't change your tire compounds on asphalt unless you are going to chage all four. There's always a best tire combo for the given surface and environment. Doing so unbalances the car (as you found out) through the run. I suppose a last-ditch effort to fix an ill car is acceptable, but in your case, I personally would've layed the shock down. Fresh tires will also fix a car that is slightly loose in the rear- assuming you want to keep the feel.

Last thing- going to the next stiffer spring on the front w/o the swaybar will give you the same amount of steering. Start off with the shocks layed all the way down and come out to reduce steering.

LMK if you have the same results we did!

Jason
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Old 08-27-2005, 07:10 AM   #3353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howard hudson
dont mean to be harsh. But if you cant afford pinions maybe you should stick with stock or 19t. Mod wears parts and tires fast.

not trying to be a d_ _ k head
, ya i guess that is true... but i have already bought all of the spares and tires and that is why im so broke . actually im just broke b/c i bought a mf2 and im 15 and i havent mowed any lawns lately .

still wanting a suggestion
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Old 08-27-2005, 11:27 AM   #3354
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Default missing screw

Building up the car, open the first bag [multi-diff] and there are only 2 of the 3 screw in there. I phoned up the shop i got the car from and they have said that the screw appears later on.. [factory problem] so far, up to bag 5, still no extra screw...

Am i really missing a screw or what ?
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Old 08-27-2005, 11:29 AM   #3355
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You are probably missing a screw, but Hudy included a spare small bag which contains most of the small fasteners.
You'll find the right screw in there.
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Old 08-27-2005, 11:30 AM   #3356
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in the last bag its a bag of xtra parts( screws etc) so look in there and im sure u will find it
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Old 08-27-2005, 11:31 AM   #3357
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Err, of course I meant nothing with you are missing a screw

Anyway, have fun with the car.
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Old 08-27-2005, 11:34 AM   #3358
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bag 6000? seems to have a few odds n sods in it...
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Old 08-27-2005, 03:25 PM   #3359
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Default Belts....

Anyone know if X-ray working on making better belts? The belts fray (SP) so bad and come apart.
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Old 08-27-2005, 04:36 PM   #3360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogRacing
Guy- if you don't mind I'll give u a little hard learned advice. Whenever possible don't change your tire compounds on asphalt unless you are going to chage all four. There's always a best tire combo for the given surface and environment. Doing so unbalances the car (as you found out) through the run. I suppose a last-ditch effort to fix an ill car is acceptable, but in your case, I personally would've layed the shock down. Fresh tires will also fix a car that is slightly loose in the rear- assuming you want to keep the feel.
I hear ya. Its been filed in the "vault" for next years asphalt season.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogRacing
Last thing- going to the next stiffer spring on the front w/o the swaybar will give you the same amount of steering. Start off with the shocks layed all the way down and come out to reduce steering. LMK if you have the same results we did!
I'll try it when I can get lap times to compare in the future rug season. But the reason for using the front sway bar, as opposed to a stiffer spring rate, has more to do with maximizing the use of 100% power to both wheels with a full one-way. I got this tip from a scale chassis design book. With the front end staying relatively flat, the utilization of power to both wheels is maximized. Now the inside wheel, which pulls and steers the car effectively on-power, will be able to contribute to the overall acceleration of the car better as long as the rear end doesn't squat down too much. The results I've found are a lot of on-power steering and faster acceleration through sweepers (double apex) and arcing corner combinations (large chicanes?) taken on the gas, without on-power oversteer.
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Last edited by teamgp; 08-27-2005 at 04:52 PM.
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