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Old 08-12-2005, 03:25 PM   #3181
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My problem with XRAY shocks had to do with imperfections in the aluminum shocks and problems putting the shocks caps on straight using the plastic shock bodies. The plastic ones are too easy to cross thread and once you do that...they leak. I didn't have a build problem with the aluminum or leak problems. They just were not manufactured well. They have high spots on the inside of the body. I can feel my piston getting caught in the same spots as I move it up and down. Made my car inconsistent.
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Old 08-12-2005, 04:20 PM   #3182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axel
I'll admit when i first started on the shocks i was kinda disapointed, but once i finally got it right, everything was fine, Ralph Burch said that alot of people just bleed their shocks wrong.
Is Ralph out of Dallas? If so tell him lunch at Chamberlain's is on me if he shows me the right way to bleed my shocks
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Old 08-12-2005, 06:51 PM   #3183
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Its not to hard to be honest.

1-Fill shock body to the top
2-slowey pump shaft to get rid of any air bubbels
3-stick the rubber bladder on top of the body,some oil will overflow
4-place cap on top,Thread tite
5-undo end cap and slowey move shaft into the shock body,this will blead your shock
6-tigthen end cap back up
7-Hey presto! you have normall 50% rebound for less rebound move shaft further into the body when bleeding,for less dont move the shaft as far in.

Put them on losi shock testing tool to get exactly rite and yopur about done! It works for me!

Xray shocks are not as bad as everyone makes out!
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Old 08-12-2005, 08:13 PM   #3184
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agree with you..
X-ray shocks are very stable once build up...
and don't need to reassembly before every wkend practise...
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Old 08-12-2005, 08:47 PM   #3185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamescam
And see there I thought it would be difficult to get them right currently on step 4 of 82
The steps seem long, because when I write them I try to make sure that they are as clear as possible without any misunderstandings. (i.e. idiot proof ) If you can sacrifice five minutes to read them through the first time, then you'll find that I've just used a lot of words to explain a few simple details.

If everything was easy in this sport, you wouldn't play right? I take pride in building my shocks well and they work great for a long time.
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Old 08-12-2005, 08:49 PM   #3186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goop
2mm over ride height is were i set mine
You might want to add another 1 to 1.5 mm in the rear if your car pushes on corner entry or the rear loses traction at mid corner due to the inside rear wheel lifting off the ground.
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Old 08-12-2005, 08:53 PM   #3187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew_Carter
5-undo end cap and slowey move shaft into the shock body,this will blead your shock
6-tigthen end cap back up
Make sure you have the shock upside down when you remove the end cap and keep it that way until you have tightened the end cap back down.

In a nutshell, you have just summarized what my long dissertation on the Xray forum explains in detail (with finger placement and all ). I do believe you may have added a step that I forgot concerning shock length though. Now I'll have to add another paragraph to it...

The key word is "visualize".
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Old 08-12-2005, 11:25 PM   #3188
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Teamgp please don't think I was belittling your contribution and assistance, I find it very helpful. My point was simply that it is a pretty trying process compared to the other shocks I have put together. I hope you keep contributing at your current level I for one appreciate it.
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Old 08-13-2005, 01:35 AM   #3189
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hi,
my shock tam' on my FK05

http://img328.imageshack.us/img328/6...mfront35aj.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/8...amrear38ob.jpg
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Old 08-13-2005, 03:49 AM   #3190
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Just a quick question guys hope you wont mind

What's the biggest spur (48 & 64P) that would fit the FK05 with the stock chassis

Thanks!
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Old 08-13-2005, 04:14 AM   #3191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
Make sure you have the shock upside down when you remove the end cap and keep it that way until you have tightened the end cap back down.

In a nutshell, you have just summarized what my long dissertation on the Xray forum explains in detail (with finger placement and all ). I do believe you may have added a step that I forgot concerning shock length though. Now I'll have to add another paragraph to it...

The key word is "visualize".
LOL i dont think that will be nessacrry is allready silly long! lol
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Old 08-13-2005, 04:37 AM   #3192
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ok i have a question that is annoying me lol

will the fk05 multi diff fit into a T1R [with std pully kit] or an fk04 with [std pully kit]

????
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Old 08-13-2005, 04:47 AM   #3193
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the FK05 multi diff will fit in the car but you cannot use it because the belt pulley's are located more to the left.

Therefor Xray is offering a multidiff for the other cars.

@Xbeta 84 will do the job and even a 87 may fit when using the std chassis.
I have read 116 will do if using 64 pitch
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Old 08-13-2005, 05:35 AM   #3194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pink pac man
ok i have a question that is annoying me lol

will the fk05 multi diff fit into a T1R [with std pully kit] or an fk04 with [std pully kit]

????
if you don't have the cash to buy a fk04 multi yes, you can make it fit.
basically do the following;

flip the belts around, long on short pulley short on long, flip the rear diff around, flip the front diff around (BUT INSTALL MULTI FROM 05) and flip over the excentric bearing hub on the chassis and the top deck around. done. fk05 multi in a 04

plus it is sort of cool cuz it is different
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Old 08-13-2005, 06:37 AM   #3195
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hey guys,

check it out.all thats left now is to throw my servo in.i really like the red anodizing.at first i didnt think much of it but it is really growing on me quick.i also made a set of nuts for the wheels to make it a little more conveniant to throw my car on my set up station.let me know what you think.
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