Xray T1FK05
#2986
Tech Master

Originally Posted by HRCRACER123
Which one do you guys recommend?

#2987

Originally Posted by centax error!
Precision Racing Spur....da best 

#2988
Tech Master

It looks like the new generation Serpent cars are not using the famous Hudy design clicker shocks, wonder why
Judging from the color of the anodizing it looks like this is not Hudy make, or is it? Will Xray be offering this RCC shocks for the Xray cars as well? There is nothing really wrong with the current shock design it's just that some people ( like me) wants something better with the same quality level as the TRF ones...
CE!
"Qoute from MyTsn.com:"
RCC Shock Absorbers
The RCC shock absorbers are the smoothest and easiest to build shocks ever designed. Machined from metal and unique in that the shock bodies only open on the bottom half, they are really simple to assemble. They come with a fixed piston and no longer use a diaphragm as with the previous shocks. The result is an ultra-smooth and air-free shock absorber thanks to the self-bleeding system incorporated into the design.
Another great benefit is that these shock absorbers come pre-assembled in the kit, so you need only add shock oil.


CE!
"Qoute from MyTsn.com:"
RCC Shock Absorbers
The RCC shock absorbers are the smoothest and easiest to build shocks ever designed. Machined from metal and unique in that the shock bodies only open on the bottom half, they are really simple to assemble. They come with a fixed piston and no longer use a diaphragm as with the previous shocks. The result is an ultra-smooth and air-free shock absorber thanks to the self-bleeding system incorporated into the design.
Another great benefit is that these shock absorbers come pre-assembled in the kit, so you need only add shock oil.
#2989
Tech Addict
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: If Nissan Motorsport is Nismo, Then Honda Motorsport must be Homo
Posts: 633

Originally Posted by tsuiyuen
they give me the same rebounce and not much oil leakage problem...
#2990
Tech Elite

iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Land of the Free, Home of the Brave
Posts: 2,928
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)

So I was all set to get the RDX for the coming carpet season. Then last night I was able to put my hands on an 05 for the first time. I did not get to drive it, but the thing looks really good. I have driven the RDX and man is it smooth. Does the 05 have a performance advantage over the RDX?
#2991

Originally Posted by Kennedy
Correct me if i'm wrong but isn't thre supposed to be no rebounce? Isn't rebounce a sign of air simply pushing the piston back out or in? I know it took me about 26 attempts, but i got mine together with no rebounce.
iirc, a lot of rebound will make a car easier to drive, but slower changing direction....where as more rebound will actually generate more grip (i think!) but the car will change directions quicker.
imo its a tuning aid thats not looked upon enough, probably because its the most fiddly.
i just try and get all 4 shocks with 50% rebound and leave them until they need rebuilding.
#2992
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)

ok, got the chassis sanding/sealing done, and started working on bags 1.2-2, have a couple of build questions.
1. the rear suspension mounts call for a (length) 12mm screw in the rear mount and a 10mm screw for the front. Looking at the threaded inserts, it does not seem like the screws thread very far into them. this would be even more noticeable were i to increase the rear toe from the stock 2 degree spacers. has anyone had any problems with stripping, or is anyone running longer screws?
2. again in the rear suspension inner mounts. the manual calls for a 3mm spacer in front of the arm, and a 1mm spacer behind for the factory setup. using only 4mm of spacers is leaving my arm about 3-5mm of play between the mounts (sliding on the hinge pin). i can add more shims if needed, but building by the manual, i would not expect this to be so far off. anyone have thoughts/ideas?
3. belts, i've read that some people soak the belts in wd40, etc. any reccommendations to this end?
thx in advance, and sorry for anything that might have been previously asked (long thread).
1. the rear suspension mounts call for a (length) 12mm screw in the rear mount and a 10mm screw for the front. Looking at the threaded inserts, it does not seem like the screws thread very far into them. this would be even more noticeable were i to increase the rear toe from the stock 2 degree spacers. has anyone had any problems with stripping, or is anyone running longer screws?
2. again in the rear suspension inner mounts. the manual calls for a 3mm spacer in front of the arm, and a 1mm spacer behind for the factory setup. using only 4mm of spacers is leaving my arm about 3-5mm of play between the mounts (sliding on the hinge pin). i can add more shims if needed, but building by the manual, i would not expect this to be so far off. anyone have thoughts/ideas?
3. belts, i've read that some people soak the belts in wd40, etc. any reccommendations to this end?
thx in advance, and sorry for anything that might have been previously asked (long thread).
Last edited by gee-dub; 07-22-2005 at 02:21 AM.
#2993

question 2= loosen bown screws to the hinge pin mounts.while pushing the mounts into the pin, tighten down on the screws. hope this helps-Steve Bahnatka
#2994

i've been trying different setups for a spool and haven't really found one that works well for me yet i went back to a front diff and my car seems faster and more constant. does any one have a good spool setup that isn't to tight but not completely loose nether

#2995

Originally Posted by jdm19turn
i've been trying different setups for a spool and haven't really found one that works well for me yet i went back to a front diff and my car seems faster and more constant. does any one have a good spool setup that isn't to tight but not completely loose nether 

#2996

here is mine very easy to drive
http://www.teamxray.com/xforum/xform...7&setup=t1fk05
chris morrison
www.irocc.ca
http://www.teamxray.com/xforum/xform...7&setup=t1fk05
chris morrison
www.irocc.ca
#2997

hi i was wondering if any1 has tried under/overdriving the front diff with the different sized pulleys u get for the car thanks
#2998

Originally Posted by John_S
hi i was wondering if any1 has tried under/overdriving the front diff with the different sized pulleys u get for the car thanks
#2999

under/overdriving is a very bad idea (imo)
because when ever your on power, one set of wheels will try to turn faster/slower than the other, so the car will either be pushed or pulled by only one set of wheels...rather than all 4.
also, it will screw with your gearing...IR is worked out by diff pulley/layshaft pulley so if you start having 2 different sized diff pulleys, it will alter your internal ratio, so you will have to rework gearing..but it will be a proper odd internal ratio.
because when ever your on power, one set of wheels will try to turn faster/slower than the other, so the car will either be pushed or pulled by only one set of wheels...rather than all 4.
also, it will screw with your gearing...IR is worked out by diff pulley/layshaft pulley so if you start having 2 different sized diff pulleys, it will alter your internal ratio, so you will have to rework gearing..but it will be a proper odd internal ratio.
#3000

Originally Posted by raving-monkey
under/overdriving is a very bad idea (imo)

Nobody thought eating mold was a good idea either.

Don't get your knickers in a twist...just joshin ya.