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Xray T1FK05

Old 07-09-2005, 03:05 PM
  #2926  
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Originally Posted by howard hudson
Hit them out with a hammer !!!! what are ya nuts?? Never do that you will destroy the bearings. What you do is file the flange where it is binding. Then it slides right out.

Now to avoid the flange from mushrooming do this with a dremel before assembly
http://www.qwiglee.com/images/rc/xhub.jpg

saw this from a post on this thread months ago works awsome
Im going to bhe using spring steal so im not bothered, it actually says to use a hammer in the manual
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Old 07-09-2005, 03:53 PM
  #2927  
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Originally Posted by Scho
Im going to bhe using spring steal so im not bothered, it actually says to use a hammer in the manual
What ever dude. Just trying to help out So yes use a hammer and when ya buy those new spring steel axles. Might as well pick up some new bearings also .
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Old 07-09-2005, 07:58 PM
  #2928  
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"MH:
The anti-roll bars were never included in any XRAY touring car kit. The handling of the T1 touring cars is a bit different from others and in many conditions the anti-roll bars are not needed at all. Therefore we let the customer decide to purchase the anti-roll bar when he needs it, instead of adding it to the kit and thus increasing the price of the kit."

I was told on this thread that sways aren't even neccesary. This quote by Martin Hudy says in many conditions sway bars are not even needed. What conditions does he mean? I plan on getting a new belt car in the future and the fk05 is #1 on my list. I just want to know because i only want to buy what is neccesary to race.

Thanks
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Old 07-09-2005, 10:55 PM
  #2929  
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Originally Posted by howard hudson
Hit them out with a hammer !!!! what are ya nuts?? Never do that you will destroy the bearings. What you do is file the flange where it is binding. Then it slides right out.

Now to avoid the flange from mushrooming do this with a dremel before assembly
http://www.qwiglee.com/images/rc/xhub.jpg

saw this from a post on this thread months ago works awsome
Sweet! Thanks Howard! Just got another XRay and had no money left to shell out for new axles

Question (for anyone)...Is there any way to tell the Team Tamale Alum C-hubs from the XRay ones?
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Old 07-10-2005, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackKat
Question (for anyone)...Is there any way to tell the Team Tamale Alum C-hubs from the XRay ones?
Kat: I have the team tamale alum. rear hubs in 2 degrees and they measure and look identical to the xray version rear hubs. I would think that the C-hubs may be different in the materials used for both items.

Last edited by Roger; 07-10-2005 at 11:06 AM.
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Old 07-10-2005, 04:43 AM
  #2931  
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Default HOW MANY PEOPLE HAVE BROKEN THE TIP OF THE XRAY CHASSIS

Hi,

I think the 05 is a GREAT car. But iot does have some weakneses for eg. The tip of the chassis. Here in AUS about 70% of all us top Xray drivers have snaped or delamenated the top of the chassis some big hit some lil. Is this a BIG of problem with most the cars or is it just the HARD Australian Cond!??

Davo
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Old 07-10-2005, 05:55 AM
  #2932  
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Question (for anyone)...Is there any way to tell the Team Tamale Alum C-hubs from the XRay ones?
There are some small differences in our C-hubs from the Xray versions. Here are a couple of links to help you tell the difference just by looking at them. The main difference is the aluminum that we use. These are made from the highest quality aircraft grade 7075 aluminum which is much stronger than the aluminum that Xray uses.

Xray C-hub

http://www.teamxray.com/xshop/showim...a9c5c6e1dff052

Team Tamale C-hub

http://home.earthlink.net/~cbradshaw25/id12.html

Or you can just go to http://www.teamtamale.com to see all of our products.
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Old 07-10-2005, 09:36 AM
  #2933  
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Local track closed down, so I am selling an FK'05

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=77019

pics available by request
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Old 07-10-2005, 11:52 AM
  #2934  
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hi guys i recently purchased an fk05 and i am very happy with the car,but i need a little help with the setup. I am running the box standard kit setup but have a diff up front and i am experiencing an on power push and off power oversteer. Do you guys have any quim fixes for this? I have the optional spring set, so i can play with the springs a bit if i need to.
Thanks
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Old 07-10-2005, 01:52 PM
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This may have been covered all ready and I missed it, are there any aftermarket 48p spurs that will fit the FK05? I know the PRS makes the 64p but I'm not sure how they would hold up to outdoor racing (probably not any worse than the soft plastice Xray gears).
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Old 07-10-2005, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by polesitter61
This may have been covered all ready and I missed it, are there any aftermarket 48p spurs that will fit the FK05? I know the PRS makes the 64p but I'm not sure how they would hold up to outdoor racing (probably not any worse than the soft plastice Xray gears).
My son and I have been running the PRS 64 pitch for a while now on moderately smooth to dirty bumpy asphalt tracks outdoors with a few others and have found they have held up great. No problems whatsoever. The current Xray spurs are too soft and don't hold up. Been running from spec stock motors to 6 single mods with no issues.



Pops
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Old 07-10-2005, 04:51 PM
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try running anti dive and anti squat together. keep the rest of the setup the same
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Old 07-10-2005, 06:03 PM
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Thanks Pops, Now I just have to buy all those pinions to go with the spur!
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Old 07-10-2005, 11:26 PM
  #2939  
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Hi all,

Anyone notice quite a bit of bump-in under front suspension compression? Has anyone tried fixing it and would like to share the results?
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Old 07-11-2005, 07:09 AM
  #2940  
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Originally Posted by John_S
hi guys i recently purchased an fk05 and i am very happy with the car,but i need a little help with the setup. I am running the box standard kit setup but have a diff up front and i am experiencing an on power push and off power oversteer. Do you guys have any quim fixes for this? I have the optional spring set, so i can play with the springs a bit if i need to.
Thanks
I'd suggest running 1.5d anti-dive up front with front pin holders on front arm set in the middle hole and the rear pin holders set in the top hole. This should get rid of the off power oversteer by keeping more weight on the rear during corner entry. Also, make sure you don't have more than 3.5mm of rear droop (uptravel of the chassis from rest until the rear wheels lift off the ground). I set my rear droop to 0 or 1 on the guage, depending on ride height. This will allow just enough initial weight transfer to the front for aggressive front end response, but not enough to induce oversteer.

Then, increment your front droop screw setting by .5mm and test the car. Keep screwing in the droop screw by .5mm increments until you get rid of the push. I've found that 1.5 or 2 on the droop guage is best for the front arms. This should get rid of the on power push by keeping the front of the car low to the ground, which keeps weight over the front axle and uses the aerodynamics of the body's front spoiler.

From my recent experience at the race this past weekend, I would not recommend using anti-squat on the 05. I've been running anti-squat for a couple of weeks now and I kept having a problem with mid corner oversteer in tight corners, taken at full lock, with fast entry speeds. I found the only way to allow enough weight to shift rearward fast enough at mid corner was to trim up neutral to a roll on my transmitter and increase the front droop by 1mm (lets the front insde wheel lift up at mid corner and transfer more weight to the rear outside wheel). But these settings gave too much on power push as a result. So I'd suggest decreasing front droop to cure the off power oversteer.

These recommendations are for rubbers on low to medium grip asphalt. For medium to high grip carpet, I've found that anti-squat works well if you have softer and wider rear foams. I use 40 shore 26mm fronts and 35 shore 30mm rears. The wider rear foams keep the car from oversteering, but allow the rear to rotate around at mid corner very well since they are not loaded with as much weight due to the anti-squat. But I haven't been able to get the same affect from rubbers even when using CS27s up front and CS22s on the rear.
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