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Old 07-06-2005, 04:06 PM   #2896
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the chassis kit is 2.5mm.i constructed the chassis kit to be extremely rigid with 2.5mm with also the option of slight flex.through testing we found the car to carry alot of corner speed with also intense amounts of on power steering.the car didnt loose that aggressive feel going into the corner but it does seem to be not as violent going in and more stuck throughout the corner.testing was done on both asphalt and high bite carpet with great success.i must say,it was quite a pleasure working with such a great platform.this has been such a joy working with the fk05.it is such a eye apealing car and well thought out design.i made some changes to the chassis layout that i felt would work better in my oppinion.all the test guys thought it was a big improvement.i hope you guys do also.
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Old 07-07-2005, 06:03 AM   #2897
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Old 07-07-2005, 06:37 AM   #2898
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I think this questions has been ask before.
I tried looking for it.
Might have missed it.
How "easy" it is to change the spur gear?
THanks
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Old 07-07-2005, 06:55 AM   #2899
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Easy, takes about 10 minutes.

You need to remove one end of the right rear camber link,
top of the right rear shock,
remove right rear screw holding shock tower to bulkhead,
loosen left rear screw holding shock tower to bulkhead,
remove the screws from the right rear bulkhead both in top plate and chassis.
loosen or remove screws from top plate left rear bulkhead

Pull the right rear bulkhead off, and the layshaft comes out, 3 screws to remove spur.

reverse the process to reinstall
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Old 07-07-2005, 07:27 AM   #2900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdR|aN
I think this questions has been ask before.
I tried looking for it.
Might have missed it.
How "easy" it is to change the spur gear?
THanks
* Unscrew the right rear inner camber link from the shock tower all the way
* Unscrew the two shock tower screws on the right all the way
* Remove the right rear shock from tower and arm (makes it easier if its not in the way)
* Unscrew the two right rear top deck screws all the way
* Unscrew the three right rear bulkhead screws all the way
* Remove the right rear bulkhead by sliding it gently to the right while holding the layshaft and rear diff firmly against the left rear bulkhead
* Remove the rear belt completely
* Remove the front belt from the layshaft pulley
* Remove the layshaft and replace the spur gear
* Put everything back in reverse order

You can cut corners by only loosening or removing some of the above items, but it makes things more tricky trying to align everything once you've replaced the spur gear. Its actually faster if you do the steps above, have the shock and rear belt completely out of the way, and keep all of the loose screws in a tray.

Takes approximately 5 minutes for me and another 2 minutes to properly tighten the bulkhead screws while checking to make sure its tweak free.
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Old 07-07-2005, 01:28 PM   #2901
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Well thanks guys.
I was previously driving an EVO2 FOC.
Now i am thinking of going back into RC and the spurs really make my face like =
So thanks alot. At least i didnt thought it was easy in the first place.
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Old 07-07-2005, 02:55 PM   #2902
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Not sure why they would unless you tend to destroy them....

I've had my car since the beginning of April, and I have changed the spur 3 times. Bear in mind up until the local track closed last Friday, I was running 3 days a week with the car.
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Old 07-07-2005, 05:00 PM   #2903
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Default BMI Chassis

Will the upper deck included with the BMI chassis be available as a separate part #?
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Old 07-07-2005, 05:18 PM   #2904
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all of the parts in my fk05 kit will be sold seperately.unfortunately the top deck will not fit the stock chassis being that i moved the motor.sorry for the inconvenience.i moved things around a bit.thanks for your interest.if you have any questions,i will be happy to help.
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Old 07-08-2005, 07:34 AM   #2905
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Just an fyi for you guys who need fornt or rear bulk heads their is a set of front and a set of rear bulkheads on ebay lookslike some one is parting out t1fk'05
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Old 07-08-2005, 11:46 AM   #2906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartynD
Not sure why they would unless you tend to destroy them....

I've had my car since the beginning of April, and I have changed the spur 3 times. Bear in mind up until the local track closed last Friday, I was running 3 days a week with the car.

Well, our local races tend to run stock and mod on the same day.
So now u know y we need to change the spurs fast.

We do have the time allocated, but then, it doesnt hurt to have some additional time on our hands for other stuff.
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Old 07-08-2005, 11:49 AM   #2907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdR|aN
Well, our local races tend to run stock and mod on the same day.
So now u know y we need to change the spurs fast.

We do have the time allocated, but then, it doesnt hurt to have some additional time on our hands for other stuff.
Why do you change spurs between stock and mod?
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Old 07-08-2005, 12:04 PM   #2908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Why do you change spurs between stock and mod?
That was previously on my evo2 to get a proper fdr.
Stock 23 was running around 5.8xx while using a 8tx1 was running in the high 8s.
So a single spur wouldnt accomodate both fdr.
I could be wrong though.
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Old 07-08-2005, 12:10 PM   #2909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdR|aN
That was previously on my evo2 to get a proper fdr.
Stock 23 was running around 5.8xx while using a 8tx1 was running in the high 8s.
So a single spur wouldnt accomodate both fdr.
I could be wrong though.
If you run a 116 spur on the FK05 a 34 tooth pinion gets you 5.80, and a 22 tooth pinion gets you 8.96
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Old 07-08-2005, 12:12 PM   #2910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdR|aN
That was previously on my evo2 to get a proper fdr.
Stock 23 was running around 5.8xx while using a 8tx1 was running in the high 8s.
So a single spur wouldnt accomodate both fdr.
I could be wrong though.
Well if you had a large enough spur gear you could certainly get both those ratios without changing spur. You would need a wide range of pinions though, something like 24 tooth for the mod motor and 35 tooth (64 pitch) for the stock motor. The only other thing to consider would be motor position. On all the Xrays except the '05 the motor moves up and down based on your gear mesh so if you want to keep it as low as possible you might want to change the spur.
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