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Old 06-24-2005, 10:09 AM   #2761
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BTW, the ride height and stiction is only happening in the back.
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Old 06-24-2005, 11:17 AM   #2762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb
Yeah, the shocks were a pain, but I was expecting that so I spent extra time with them. The shock ends are screwed on all the way and the ball ends at the bottom are where they should be. I used digital calipers and measured the length. As far as tires, I'm using stock rubber; Yokomo dish, Yokomo thin inserts, and Sorex 32r. The problem with the stiction seems to be in the ball cups. Without the shocks on, the arms still seem to stick. I may just try diferent ball cups and balls and see if that fixes it. The arms themsleves don't seem to be binding; I reemed the arms so the flop pretty easy. I also checked to see if the shims were the problem, but the arms still have a slight bit if play. The balls and cups just seem like they don't have enough play. I'll try a couple more things, but if they still bind, then I'm off to different ball and cups and Tamiya TRF shocks. No one else has this issue?
Try backing the 3mm ball end from the bottom of the shock to the arm out like half a turn. That should free up the bind.
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Old 06-24-2005, 11:22 AM   #2763
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Which spacer are you using for rear toe in?

Check that the hingepin mounts aren't slightly twisted.

By hand with no shock installed, lift the rr suspension arm enough to slightly flex the camber link ball cup. I had to do that to loosen them up.
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Old 06-24-2005, 11:39 AM   #2764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb
BTW, the ride height and stiction is only happening in the back.
you got pm...
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Old 06-24-2005, 11:56 AM   #2765
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Thanks guys. Martyn: tryed that, but still binds. I think it is the ball cup. Seems to be isolated to that. I reemed the hinge pin in the arm so that if it bound at the hingepin mounts, the arm would still move since it was loose at the arm itself. I'm using the 2mm shim, but there still seems to be enough play.
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Old 06-24-2005, 12:12 PM   #2766
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Try this: Remove the ball from the shock end and turn the shock end around so that the ball goes in from the other side. Believe it or not, the balls go in better from one side than the other.

There is good explanation of this here:

http://www.teamxray.com/xforum/viewtopic.php?t=1315

Scroll down to "How to prevent the shock ball joints from popping off"


Hope this helps!
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Old 06-24-2005, 10:38 PM   #2767
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Okay guys, thanks for the help, I've solved it. It was the shocks. On the stand they were fine, but on load and on the car, they had stiction. The shocks were just too long too and the shcok collars couldn't go up high enough for 5mm ride height. I switched to Tamiya TRF shocks and problem solved. I'll probably go back and mess with the shocks,but with the Tamiyas, I just added a longer end and put the Xray springs, and now they work great. Initial tests look promising. I started with rubber stock set-up, but with standard dif and didn't add shim under front outside camber link. Car is so smooth but has a little push. I'm going to build up the multi-dif tonight and try the car with a one-way tomorrow. The track layout we set up for tomorrow's race is big and flowing and should be a good test. I think I'll run a C2 in 19t and gear at 5.9. Might switch to 64 pitch so I'll have more gearing options. Thanks for all the advice.
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Old 06-25-2005, 10:07 AM   #2768
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may i know for U.S version kit it come with the ball diff so how about center pulley? is that come with fix spool or middle one way?
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Old 06-25-2005, 11:52 AM   #2769
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in the us im sure it is a centre spool and front diff
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Old 06-25-2005, 12:33 PM   #2770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb
Okay guys, thanks for the help, I've solved it. It was the shocks. On the stand they were fine, but on load and on the car, they had stiction. The shocks were just too long too and the shcok collars couldn't go up high enough for 5mm ride height. I switched to Tamiya TRF shocks and problem solved. I'll probably go back and mess with the shocks,but with the Tamiyas, I just added a longer end and put the Xray springs, and now they work great. Initial tests look promising. I started with rubber stock set-up, but with standard dif and didn't add shim under front outside camber link. Car is so smooth but has a little push. I'm going to build up the multi-dif tonight and try the car with a one-way tomorrow. The track layout we set up for tomorrow's race is big and flowing and should be a good test. I think I'll run a C2 in 19t and gear at 5.9. Might switch to 64 pitch so I'll have more gearing options. Thanks for all the advice.
Ok, I've been in this hobby for a while now, but for the life of me, I have never heard of the term "STICTION"
What is this, the shocks partially hydro locked?
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Old 06-25-2005, 01:25 PM   #2771
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Stiction is Static (or breakaway) Friction and it is not an RC term...it's commonly used to describe motion where a higher breakaway force is required and then the load drops dramatically...

STatic frICTION = Stiction .....also sometimes thought of as stickiness of the initial motion....Sticky--->Stiction....works on several levels
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Old 06-25-2005, 01:41 PM   #2772
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Can you use RW and Kimbrough spur gears?

Thanks, Charles
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Old 06-25-2005, 01:46 PM   #2773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb
Okay guys, thanks for the help, I've solved it. It was the shocks. On the stand they were fine, but on load and on the car, they had stiction. The shocks were just too long too and the shcok collars couldn't go up high enough for 5mm ride height. I switched to Tamiya TRF shocks and problem solved. I'll probably go back and mess with the shocks,but with the Tamiyas, I just added a longer end and put the Xray springs, and now they work great. Initial tests look promising. I started with rubber stock set-up, but with standard dif and didn't add shim under front outside camber link. Car is so smooth but has a little push. I'm going to build up the multi-dif tonight and try the car with a one-way tomorrow. The track layout we set up for tomorrow's race is big and flowing and should be a good test. I think I'll run a C2 in 19t and gear at 5.9. Might switch to 64 pitch so I'll have more gearing options. Thanks for all the advice.
Ok, that explained stiction. I still don't see what the problem was.
Maybe I just cant visualize it.
I mean, with my collars all the way up, the car is slammed to the ground. Maybe like 0.5-1.0mm of ride height.
So not being able to achieve 5mm of ride height is just ..
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Old 06-25-2005, 01:48 PM   #2774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
Can you use RW and Kimbrough spur gears?

Thanks, Charles
Some have used them with no problem, others have mentioned the spur gear being too wide and rubbing on the motor mount.
So there you go, no clear answer!
I use Precision so I have not experienced any problems.
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Old 06-25-2005, 02:03 PM   #2775
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Default Spur Gear FK05

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
Can you use RW and Kimbrough spur gears?

Thanks, Charles
Hi Charles,

You can Purchase a PRS 116 Tooth (Precision Racing Systems ) Spur Gear, which works great on the stock 2.5mm Chassis in addition to the 3.0 chassis if you run it!

Attached below is link to there web site: http://www.precisionracingsystems.com/products/9
64 Pitch Spurs - Pro-Lite Oval


Retail Price:$7.99Our Price:$7.99
Tooth:88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116 120 124 128 132 51 52 53 54 57 58 59 60 61 62 67 68 Inventory:Total PriceQuantity:EachPrecision Racing Systems 64 Pitch - Pro-Lite Oval . If item is out of stock please contact [email protected] for current production updates.




Best Regards

Alex Cortez
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